What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

No doubt smaller rigs are easier to navigate through tough terrain but I will say wheeling full-size often simplifies the choice of line and can keep you out of trouble with its larger / wider wheelbase and generally lower COG.

here is a popular spot on a trail we run in Sedona - bad Jeep drivers have been known to roll down this chute - novice Tundra drivers will find it easy because the truck barely fits and is not tippy in comparison at all. If you’re @Cruzer, you drive up instead of down. There is video out there somewhere…

 

That is freakin sweet. Also the best mod you can do to help wheelin full size rigs is to lose any major attachment you may have to the factory shape of your body panels. Then the fun really starts

 

Looks great! Which product did you use?

 

I didn't think a kicker would fit under the seat. I went will the cheaper Blaupunkt. Only 8" but good enough if it's married with the stock system.

 

Yeah, I measured the space under before ordering it.

 

Thanks.

We went with easily applied, pad friendly and all 1 line for this first time. This will be a baseline for us for other products to try and use. It's a deep rabbit hole, that I hope to not fall too far into

Stage 1:

$15 Meguiar's Ultimate Compound - Pro-Grade Car Scratch Remover, Paint Correction Compound that Removes Defects While Adding Gloss and Shine, Single Stage and Clear Coat Scratch Remove, 15.2 Oz

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00F653IOO?ie=UTF8

Stage 2:

$45 Meguiar’s Ultimate Polish - High-Gloss Polish for a Show Car Shine - Permanently Removes Light Swirls to Produce a Deep, Wet Reflection with a High Gloss Shine - Easy to Use, 16 Oz

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00F653O4S?ie=UTF8

Stage 3:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B097YT699Z?ie=UTF8

 

Is there a way to use current key or aftermarket mod to allow all windows to power down remotely or from outside the truck, similar to newer models? I’m not seeing anything for the ‘20 SR5.

 

Might be other options out there

Spoiler

https://www.ktjo4x4.com/products/tu...ctional-smart-window-control-system-1-auto-2g

 

Looks good, welcome from West Columbia SC

 

Hey who said driver....

 

It’s generally my fault when it doesn’t run.

 

Mine ran fine except when they didn’t. They also never stranded my wife on the side of the road except for the two times they did.

 

First real voyage for the parentals with the new setup. They’re out in Idaho if anyone sees them on the road. Some interesting things on the trailer needed to be addressed recently. They just don’t make stuff like the used to. We will see how they like it after this trip

 

I had a Suburban that would randomly go into limp mode without warning. No codes, no check engine light, just loss of power and like 5 mph foot to the floor. After a bit of time and cycling the ignition it would eventually “fix” itself. Doing things like driving over Coronado Bridge or climbing a mountain passes was always like playing Russian roulette.

 

Gave my newer one an oil change, bath and wax

 

The 3W Liners module. You want the "Low" version.

https://3wliners.com/products/toyot...ver-side-window-only-going-down-automatically

 

What up stanky! I have a fair amount of family in Columbia!

 

Nice, what part of SC you in

 

That's a dissapointment. For the money those things command, I hope it's piddly shtiff and nothing major.

 

Yea just small annoying things but one very major thing was the valve stems. They came un glued cheap China units all the tires were flat. Luckily this didn’t happen during the drive it could’ve been real bad. Happened while it was parked and stored. So we let them know to recall all the other rigs to replace.

 

Don’t think I’d go there… but to each their own.
Caveat emptor

 

Tried to DIY the front brake pads today. Of course with pretty much all my projects something has to go wrong. I was careless and let one of the pistons fully extend and didn't have anything to push it back down without taking the caliper off, which I did with much effort as they were ON there, I have to think someone gave the bolts some extra ugga duggas with the impact. Well, turns out the threads on the caliper bolts are so badly damaged that I can't get either of them to fully seat any more. To top it off this is my only vehicle so I'll have to uber around to find new bolts and a tap to chase the threads in the caliper hoping that they aren't also damaged. I have a tap and die set but it doesn't go large enough and I'd rather new bolts than try to repair these. I'm the second owner and don't have super complete maintenance records from the first owner.

I'm also supposed to be leaving to move up to Alaska this weekend. Can't help but think I should have just paid someone to do this with the time crunch but the job is usually easy. Grumble grumble.

 

Installed RCI sliders on my '21 Pro today

RCI did a really nice job on the powder coating; these things are heavy and well built Install was not too bad...

 

Towed too much with it lol after trailer weight and all our crap , was right around 9000 lbs and some change. With passengers and the furry passengers, I was probably a tad over tow rating. Definitely max towing for my rig.

 

Nice! Those look killer without the top fill plates.

 

Wow and I thought I had a big trailer haha

 

Agreed.

the Main product picture isn’t even there product

 

You might be a tad over tow rating but I'd bet dollars to donuts your severely over your payload number.

Be careful out there.

 

Slapped on some 6112s at #3 setting, Beck Arnley inner and outer tie rods, Beck Arnley LBJs, and JBA UCAs. What was a slightly sloppy front end is now nice and solid. Truck's all levelled out and looking fantastic.

Unfortunately, my rear 5100s are on back order until November. So, do I pay the difference to get 5160s now or do I wait until November and save myself some cash along the way?

 

The way things have been, I wouldn't be surprised if the prices go up by then.