What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

And the second?

 

FWIW, I ordered my wheels from BB Wheels. I had a really great shopping experience, so much so I called them and ordered a full size spare.

 

Toytech is charging $1,800 now? What does that kit include? That's more than I paid for both front and rear ICONs(which I regret).

 

I hear this a lot. Most controversial tire ever. They have treated me fine. Mine are 5 years old now. I'm curious to see how the KO3's are improved if they ever come out.

 

Raptor....

 

Really, you regret the Icons? Have they given you grief? They're a great company, and other than that little blip they seem to've had with leaky shock bodies, their products seem pretty solid, good bang vs. buck.

Toytec has a full-blown kit starting around $1650, but it's an all-in-one kit you where you can add/remove things making it a one-stop shop, note the from/to costs in the image - but this is before discounts, and usually you can finagle anywhere from 10-20% off if you order during holidays. I try to post in the Lunch Table thread any time I see 15%+ sales. ( , I think @metalpete is talking about - click the 'Customize' button and you'll see all the options).

I personally didn't want the Elka (er, Toytec) shocks out back, I wanted Bilstein, and I didn't want to make a choice between AAL and blocks (AAL would've been my option), I wanted to see where I was sitting with the CO cranked most of the way down and pick what's out back after. Also, their UCA pricing is pretty nuts whether you go TC or SPC, So I bought piecemeal, knowing I was saving at least $500 buying stuff on sale here and there.

​

 

Ya. That one, specifically. @shifty` I've already got the ucas so it saved a little $$

 

On pavement they are fine which obviously is 99% of my driving. Off road they are not. Mine have not leaked yet thankfully. I wish I had purchased Kings or ADS. Not sure what I'll do when the time comes to rebuild these.

Their rear add-a-leaf was also disappointing. Follow their specific instructions to remove the overload spring and I got zero lift. They advertise 1.5" I believe. There is no way you'll get that unless you leave the overload spring in place.

I will say, I follow a couple on YouTube that had theirs like 80k miles and they never leaked or had to be rebuilt and they spend a LOT of time off pavement.

 

You can also heat the end of the knuckle up and hammer them out. If you're able to get the top of the spindle sticking out of the fender.

I've had to heat the knuckle to get new ones in too before as well.

 

New taillight lens. Not overly ambitious but easily done and I like them. The clear part of the len's is light gray. Nice subtle contrast to the blue.

 

They are firm offroad and I agree with king or ads being a better choice. Don’t need resi’s so king will be my next purchase. Had these rebuilt last April so I have some time before switching over. They’ve served me well with all the weight I used to carry but it is jarring without the rack/tent on permanently but that might change soon.

 

Gave her a bath.

 

Passenger tail light had some harness issues, so bought a set of loaded assemblies. Did the passenger first, and it fixed my problem. Unbuttoned the driver side to find a cluster xxxxery of wiring. My dad had a reverse camera installed and they hacked her up good. Note the Reverse trigger cut in, couldn't even slap some electric tape on it. This was a pro audio shop in Killeen. Insanity. Used the old harness on the driver side and will use the new harness when I install the new tailgate handle camera.

 

Out of curiosity how much trimming and where? I keep going back and forth with sticking with the 285/70/17 or jumping up to 285/85/17s. With my caster pushed to 2.8 I only rub on the front bumper at full stuff. Pinch weld is already hammered back and I know the 1.25” spacers don’t help. Still have plenty of life left on my current tires so first thing is to get a high clearance bumper.

 

I would figure you to be a big fan of the Raptor branding....

 

My pinch weld it flattened and I took a 10lb sledge to the firewall to kick it back 1/2-1”. Took a few wheeling trips to see where I was rubbing at full stuff and kept hammering and cutting after each trip. I also have wheel spacers that didn’t help but keep my tires off the frame.

Been trying to sell the 35’s for the past month with no luck so I might keep them and tub the firewall down the road to make them fit. Will also have to trim a bunch of the outer fender well due to the spacers.

 

Would a 1" body lift help?

 

Possibly but after the headache I had installing it on my 4th gen 4Runner, I said I’d never install a body lift again. Plus I’d have to make big adjustments or new mounts for the bumpers and sliders so they don’t look janky.

 

This is why I hate letting other people touch my vehicle, even for basic no-brainer service.

Don't forget the old adage - "Grass is always greener". Not saying you should be thankful for what you got, just saying ... sometimes what you covet is no better than what you have.

 

That's the spirit!

 

You shut your dirty whore mouth about the King Bling

 

Are the coilovers too soft? What's your spring rate? Are they the 2" body shock or the 2.5" body shock? Did you upgrade the bump stops? I had 650lb on my Toytec Boss CO's and it was like you said, great on pavement but not stiff enough off road. Had a lot of hard hits and lead to a lot of tire rub. When I switched to the 700lb Kings, I noticed a huge difference. Now I rarely rub tires on hard hits and off camber turns. Also I song the praises of Wheeler's offroad superbumps. They are affordable and do the job great. Iirc you gotta order em for the Tacoma, but they fit.

 

The valving is probably the issue and not the spring rate

 

Sounds like I need a bigger hammer

 

Is central coast in refence to the gulf coast or great lakes?

 

West coast

 

How's that work?

 

Best coast

 

central coast of California