What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Take a wire wheel or brush to the hub with the wheel off then spray it with a bit of liquid wrench or pb blaster around the center. Let it soak a bit, clean off the excess and drive it for a couple days, repeat a couple times if you want.

Thread bolts in but don't over torque them, just needs a bit of pressure to help separate and then whack the drum with a hammer. Apply heat if necessary.

 

I apply thin dab of anti seize to the center hole of the rotor where it mates with the hub. Much less beating or rotors required.

 

What's the beef w/speed bleeders? There's an OEM version for our trucks (my year, at least).

That would aggravate the piss outta me, and I'd have some new OEM drums on standby as I beat the living christ out of the ones installed.

I've also found that taking a 5-10 mile drive, popping off the rear wheels, then shooting the cheater holes with PB/Kroil as it all cools down, then installing 3-4 cheater bolts into the holes until they start to engage, and making rounds smacking them head-on before double-checking tightness will sometimes free things up. But It's been so damn rare for me where smacking the face or perimeter of the drum doesn't free things that maybe it's just one of those salted-vs-unsalted-roads things.

 

I had recently done the same thing, but found the original zerk was sheered off, the threads of it were still inside. Looked like a hole in the slide yoke, just like your pic above. I threaded it out of there with a screw extractor and replaced with the normal size zerk.

 

Huh. I wonder if @TXTundraGuy23's PO maybe had his sheared off and what we're looking at is the interior tube of the old zerk? Could explain why it was so easy/buttery to tap, he was tapping the old zerk body instead of the yoke.

 

Oil change went well, 6.6 qts seems a little low on the dipstick, but i'll wait to get if off jackstands before dumping in the last 4/10.

next oil change i'll need a new drain plug gasket.

 

Well, I wanted something that would carry to a new vehicle AND from @FrenchToasty’s review they didn’t get his brakes tight enough like the Speedi-bleeder, so I chose that instead.

Also, everything I read says DON’T bleed your brakes with the vehicle running, so there’s that.

Truthfully, I should’ve stuck with the two man pump chump method as it always works and it costs you nothing more than a favor or a 6 pack of beer.

 

Checked the plugs, still tight enough & 2 of my coils are still cracked. Why dont things fix themselves?

 

Huh! Maybe that’s what it was? Maybe there was just enough crud on there to obscure the fact that it was an old broken one. I would have expected the drill bit to back out the zerk though, not drill into it. I guess we’ll see if it holds up?

 

Planning to replace the u-joints on the front drive shaft and t-case seal this weekend. Any tricks on removing the shaft from the front diff? I have attempted a couple times after soaking the lugs in PB, but those mf'ers are on there good and there just isn't much room to get a wrench in between the PS lines and the yoke, peacefully... trying everything I can before I decide to scoot the steering rack out a touch.

 

Get 2 Extra Long 14mm box wrenches

 

And you can buy it from a company whose name phonetically sounds like the main ingredient in piss!

 

LOL! Gotta love those names on the 'zon. Just screams "quality"

Length isn't a problem, got some long ones already. It's the in-between space that is my concern. It's all good, I'm probably just being overly cautious.

 

TWSS.

 

It's that girth that really get's 'em worked up

 

My 7/8" deep was too fat for some of the bolts to my farmall & had to grind it down in a drill press with a flap wheel on an angle grinder.

 

Yeah I might just go that route, got more 14mm wrenches than I care to admit... I do have skinny 14mm/15mm combo that I bought for the bottom bolt on my suspension maxx links, but it likes to flex once there's some real torque on it.

 

I've got several 'light duty' box ends that have been ground down to fit. And a couple box ends that have been cut into line wrenches and held tight with vise-grips. There is zero space for tools in a buell. Need extensions made of guitar wire.

 

I have some non-cracked OEM coils @FirstGenVol sent my way. I can hand them off to square pants next time I see him. Actually I can mail those mother bitches to you if you want?

 

Got tired of everyone bragging about fancy headlights, so ordered some new ones along with housings. Also got the front corners and a set of tail lights for good measure. Went with TYC from RA, heads and tails were CAPA certified and boxes marked as such. Could not find CAPA corners, but box indicates they were made in Taiwan at least. Tails will go on this weekend, while the fronts join the ever expanding pile of parts. Also grabbed a camera to mod my tailgate handle, because my bumper one is gypsy AF.

 

Huh. Oem are not expensive. These are even cheaper?

 

OEM housings aren't expensive? You sure about that?

 

I’ll review my purchase. I’ve bought headlights corners and tails. Less than 200 each IIRC. That’s expensive?

 

Yeah, just looked it up, for me it’s $150 per headlight and $50 per corner. I can hunt for the tails. Got 2005-2006 versions there.

Figure 10 years of life at least, hopefully 20. For the price of two tanks of gas? Not excessive to me.

 

I basically got two new non-OEM, CAPA-certified headlight housings and mini projector bulbs for the cost most people pay for a single OEM headlight housing. At the time I purchased, I swear my OEM housings were going for $223/ea on sale, and I managed to get that down closer to $175/ea with some vendor finagling, coupons, etc.

 

Yes, given your plans to crack and stuff I understand the logic.

Our headlight preferences (and wheel preferences) are some of the very rare things we don't align on. But variety is cool, it'd be boring if we were all the same.

For anyone intending to use the OEM halogen headlights w harness, AGM and voltage booster as I do, I don't see $150 as an unreasonable expense.

With that said, my first passenger side wasn't sealed perfectly so technically I've bought 3 new OEM headlights. I need to resell the passenger side to someone willing to attempt to reseal it, it's otherwise basically brand new. I should probably return to EricF but it's been long enough that I'd feel like a chump and I don't know what they could really do about it other than crediting me and tossing it.

 

Eric wouldn't do shit for you anyway. That guy is a chump. Main reason many of us stopped buying parts from Serra Toyota (of Decatur, at least).

 

See y’all in a few hours…

 

Good luck, sicko.