1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

@Sunnier
https://lcengineering.com/differential-information/

 

Thanks! <dives in>

 

8.4" is the size for the ring and pinion. Your rear differential uses a 8.4" and your front is 7.5", so you need one ring and pinion in your gear ratio in 8.4" then another in 7.5". I don't think you need to order a pinion flange since the install shop will reuse yours. Different cab models and 2WD have different patterns.

 

believe that’s front and rear sizes. 8.4 In the back and 7.5 in the front.

 

Sale runs to August 15th per website.

Rear is 8.4" standard rotation.

Front is 7.5" reverse rotation.


Iirc. The specs list what models they know they fit.

 

You want front gears, rear gears, front install kit, rear install kit, ecgs bushing, ecgs remove and install tool (borrow if you can) and gear oil. 7.5 front and 8.4 rear. Ratios must match, usually 4.56 or 4.88. You can get the gears REM’d which polishes them and means no break in period.

Oh and if you want a locker or LSD, 8.4” for that.

 

We did end up getting tickets at the next show. Much more reasonable at about $500 for 4 tickets in Cardiff. I have graciously decided that I'll give up my ticket so my wife can take our daughter and my nieces.

Those were indeed the VIP ticket packages, didn't look into what all was included since I wasn't interested in paying that.

 

My shopping list! Thank you!!!

 

Oh and if doing a clutch lsd you want additive. For torsen, locker or open, ignore that. Adding only for completeness / others as you wrote locker originally and that seems like the proper plan for a wheeler which won’t be abused by children or driven extensively in snow / slush on road.

 

I'd like to see someone stuff an 8" front diff under a 1gt, because i'd assume the axles/cv's would be beefier because 30 spline vs 27 spline.

 

Progress:

Ok, I asked for a quote on the following, with options to buy all parts myself, or to buy through the installer. Labour is $20 more per hour if I bring my own than if I buy from installer, $165/hr. vs. $145/hr. If the front is a "clamshell" it'll be 2 additional hours of labour compared to non-clamshell. I'll have to look as I don't recall and he didn't know my truck well enough to know. Installer said he cannot get reduced pricing shown from Nitro, so, because the Nitro sale is so good, I'll probably buy directly. Here's what's I asked installer to quote:

front 4.56 gears, 7.5 size*;
rear 4.56 gears, 8.4 size;
front install kit,
rear install kit,
ecgs bushing(s ?)**
solid pinion spacer, instead of 'crush' something***
gear oil


* he was really surprised to think an 8 cylinder, 4.7 litre (big) truck would have 7.5, but acknowledged there's a lot of combinations and differences in Toyota trucks over a span of a few years. He said he'll rely on Nitro to confirm correct spec, and suggested I do the same;

** do I need one ecgs bushing(?), or one front and one back?? I probably should have asked the installer, but I did t realize I didn't understand, until I'd left and was looking over my notes. Installer has an ecgs remove and install tool.

*** Installer confirmed this is a good idea although not necessary, and seemed a bit impressed that I have good advisors, even though I admitted I don't know all this myself. I asked him to please be generous with advice, if he sees or knows anything I may not have/ should consider.

So that lead to air vs. electric lockers... and I'm now considering an E-locker. The main positive he gave that resonated with me--aside from describing that a redesign after Harrop lost their exclusive control of Toyota E-lockers in or around 2016, from 2 pinion to 4 pinion, solved problems pre-2016-- was that I can see myself rewiring on the trail if electrical connections were to get torn/disconnected off-road... whereas I cannot see a realistic trail fix for a broken air line.

So... having shut several of you guys down multiple times when you tried suggesting I consider an E-locker, I now welcome any suggestions. Or please tell me why you won't get an air locker.

Basically, I had some idea that E-lockers won't work in cold weather (future Idaho panhandle)... or maybe won't disengage outside of perfect straight forward conditions, or... something. Anyone? @alb1k @Cruzer

Sunnier locker and gear parts list

 

Also... quoting an air tank to make margaritas (to justify running a 100% duty cycle compressor that I may not otherwise need, if I go E-locker instead of air locker).

 

I don't think you'll need the ECGS bushing. I bought one for my truck, when I took it apart the needle bearing wasn't there. When you get gears and lockers I guess they replaced that, at least on mine they did, and it wasn't a needle bearing.

I'd go with an E-locker. Dealing with worn out air leaking seals and taking apart the diff to change it out really really sucks.

Are you doing front/rear or rear only lockers?

 

Only rear. I'm convinced adding a locker to the front will mostly help me break my truck.

 

I'm a little disappointed nobody (that i could find) makes an lsd/locker combo. Because an unlocked diff become open. I dont know if air lockers need to be actuated at a complete stop, but @DJenerated stopped to lock his e-locker. So on tight, steep switchbacks it would be locked, then as you get to the corner, unlocked, then locked again when it was needed, then unlocked again for the next corner. But we're on rocks, where on sandy forgiving soils you probably wouldnt have to fiddle the button as often.

 

Hmmn. I love rocks. But because of where I live, I get a lot more opportunity to run in sand. So I need to be able to do both. And my future involves snow and mud....

 

The front is indeed 100% a 7.5" reverse clamshell. 3rd Gen 4runners and 1st Gen Tacomas use the same front differential as us. They are a little weak for our truck and there are a few examples of people on here breaking them.

You need another 100% duty cycle compressor?

 

Well, pass side inner tie rod has some play. But everything else seems pretty good. Well, no worse than the last time i was in here.

 

Welp... Here we go. I got an additional 5% off since I sacrificed my phone number. If you're purchasing, try discount code "WELCOME5", might not need to give them your phone number.

Nowhere near ready to do this so I'll buy the rest of the goodies later on.

 

4.88 crew!! You’ll probably still have yours installed before me!

 

This is funny. Caught me off guard
https://youtu.be/5YohnS3Ip7w

 

Ok, I'm now thinking <lightbulb turns on> this is why Bruce and others told me we'll never want to add a locker in the front. That the front diff on my year Tundra is wimpy and will break under the strain I'd be installing a locker to address.

No. I need an air tank so I can run a blender, so I can justify the 100% duty cycle compressor I'm already running. That I otherwise wouldn't need-- if I go with an E-locker instead of the air-locker i expected it to support someday.

 

Work has some ac gauges, and I can get a vacuum pump from the zone...

How complicated is doing a complete recharge?
@FrenchToasty @shifty`

This is my first rodeo and I feel like I can do it from the video I saw but how do I know when I have the correct amount in?

 

I feel like ac is best left to someone with the proper tools that can weigh & measure. Call a shop and see what they charge. But the last tome i did that it was like $40 for a fill up on my 5runner when i had to replace the compressor. So '09ish?

 

I can help you with debugging the system, but I'll tell you straight-up, I'm ignorant about how to use gauges effectively and know what low/high side should be. But you tagged one of the guys I'd have tagged if I wanted to learn. @assassin10000 is the other.

 

Already called a few shops. Cheapest I can find is $150 plus freon. So I'm figuring shop freon will be 40 a bottle. $200 after tax. And it's the local raben that always passes me off

 

I always forget about @assassin10000. I'm still chewing on doing it myself

 

Also, damn if this shit ain't me
https://youtu.be/lWWxuDYGMsI

 

2009 might as well been a different lifetime ago when talking about prices.

 

Just feel lucky you dont have to use r1234

i have a few cans of r12 in my safe next to my gold & gems.