What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I would support you in this. We should start a Change.org petition.

I want a custom plate that says gringo but I don't think they would approve it. That's what I call my truck.

 

Now, I’m thinking of that goofy song “Get Schwifty”.

 

I’m a bit of a fan of audiofrog myself.

 

Wife went to store so I had a few minutes to adjust new H4 projectors and start diagnosing camper/cap/shell wiring. I noticed it was all screwed-up looking with shit disconnected everywhere; when installing the reverse camera (thanks for the free posi-tap, crutchfield!) and made a mental note to figger on it at some point. Got as far as getting power to the dome light in there. Going to replace all the wiring I think because it’s also wired into the trailer wiring. I hate janky-azz wiring.

 

FToast

 

That’s some ugly ass s.

 

I can send you a harness off my OEM takeoff and a T if you want, just lemme know which signals.

 

a smudge of Vaseline & accumulating environmental debris (dust) make an easy & legal '

 

Ask em. I bet they oblige.

 

FRENCHY

 

I like my vanity plate as is. But if I changed it, I might put something like GORDITA

 

whytee

 

Blanco

 

Funny enough, Texas went to "ABC-1234" for license plates a few years back. I'm betting someone out there has my plate.

 

You should. I tag you enough it just pops up after a few letters. Like this:

 

Come to think of it, I haven't seen a pic of either of your tundras since you joined. Why not?

 

I made sure my cap had a nice connector on it so if I wanted to unhook it, it would be easy. Too bad the hole the wires run through isn't big enough for the connector. That thought somehow never crossed my mind.

My cap light gets power through the tail light circuit and has a switch mounted to it. It was good enough when I put on my cap and didn't really plan to use it for long, need to redo it and power it from the cargo light circuit one day. I also didn't use heat shrink butt connectors for it (didn't have any then) so I expect corrosion to get me one of these days.

 

Incredibly kind of you; I will do some more figgerin’ and maybe even some fiddlin’ and let you know what I come up with. Thank you!

 

Yeah my cap/camper shell does have a somewhat slim connector and I want to preserve its remove-ability like you. Prior /original owner had it taken off towards the end of his ownership and I actually didn’t know it came with a cap until on my way down to get it (with cashier’s check already cut) and he asked if I wanted it. Had to resist the urge to shout “why, hell yes I do”, just said I’d run to the bank for some extra dough. He put the camper/topper back on before I could get there so I’ve never seen my truck without it; but I see how the wires could kind of “tuck” if the top were removed.

Camper goals:

1. I really want to get that non-functional third brake light diagnosed soon. It’s all moist-looking and may be aftermarket (long ago though). Truck’s 3BL and cargo light housing is sun-damaged but lights are functional.
2. LED strips under the rails with a better/more convenient switch.
3. Get trailer wiring separated and make sure it’s working. Camper/topper lights need to be powered off of driver brake light only.

 

I'd love to do this, just haven't taken the time. Ideal setup would be using a prox switch (magnet type switch) to control it so when the tailgate opened the lights turned on but it's more than I want to mess with. I don't use the light much anyway.

My third brake light moves with the glass and is on the inside, keeps it dry like that I guess.

I'm out of order, but what kind of hookups do you have on the truck currently on the trailer hookup side?

 

They're not done yet

That's hilarious on so many levels but I suspect the humor would go WHOOSH over many people's heads.

Sorry, just threw up in my mouth a little. That's horrific and everything I hate to find, scotchloks are ass-tastic. I dunno if I could live with it, I'd be tempted to replace the harness, knowing it should be a short tee, connecting into the main run an inch or three outboard of the driver framerail. It's a no-brainer swap. Check the 4th pic in my howto on @daveeasa's DIR post here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lic...hile-in-reverse-dir.97246/page-2#post-2522320

The connector labeled "Pop off from behind" is your tail light harness. All of it. (that's all Dave's wiring to the right of it, coming down - he makes really, really f'n awesome stuff, very meticulous)

Actually, here's the pic, see the tail light harness go up into the tail light cavity in OEM loom. That thread link may help if you want a rundown of the lighting circuit also. I just loved that his DIR harness included a pwr/gnd tee for my backup camera. Made install way easier.

PS - popping off that connector can be a PITA. Take your time.

​

 

Many thanks to you guys (shifty, hope you're feeling better this morning!). I'll also get some pics from below of the wiring to/from the trailer lights harness to see just how bootlegged everything is. Hopefully it's all recoverable. Dave, looks like your brake T harness is the one to get me the 12V power I need for the current third brake light (currently supplied from a fused 12V line run directly from the battery) and...possibly also the future switched LED strips in the camper/shell? The DIR harness is awesome but--do I have this right?--it seems like it fixes a problem I don't have since my reverse camera is in the tailgate handle so there's no interference there. I just need to get back to factory-ish so I can comfortably tie your brake tee in--I think that's where your OEM takeoff harness can get me. I'll know more after I get some pics of the tomfool wiring underneath the truck.

 

You would still use the fused power from the battery for the shell. But I could do a T for the 3rd brake light if you have one. Same as 2nd gen Tacoma brake T. The other signals are if you need them for tow controller but at least on my truck there is a dedicated connector for that, separate from the taillight connector, 11 positions with inputs, outputs, power and ground.

 

I'm in the same boat having no steering wheel controls. I bought a remote Kenwood Kna-RCDv331 Multimedia IR Remote with Navigation Functions (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://a.co/d/4vJx1Sy that helps. I like the Kenwood DDX5707S I bought except for those miniscule up and down volume arrows. Give me a good old fashioned knob.

 

Woke up this morning wondering if I should actually go to the doc. Take a good long look at the back of my throat just to see if maybe strep or something. Goddamn ginormous neon yellow-green jellybean on the back wall of my throat, can't feel anything when I poke it but clearly it's filled with pus or something. I reckon drainage from that is what's causing my coughing. Made the mistake of hitting the local walk-in clinic ... ugh. Tried to tell me it was a tonsil stone. Like, "No, I've seen (and smelled! ugh!!) a tonsil stone before, I'm not prone to them, I've never had one but know someone who does... this ain't it!" She told me to go see an ENT. Like, yeah, that'll take me about 3-5 weeks to get in, by then it's gonna be gone. No thanks.

If you're not actively trailering right now and have no plans to, just start by popping off the business end of the trailer plug where it's mounted, I assume near the plate. Then start peeling back from there. Hopefully they didn't peel off to much of the factory loom, but if they did, I've got about 40ft extra split loom in 3/8" here at the house I won't use soon, happy to pull a dozen foot off and mail it to you. OEM is often loose wire wrap with electrical tape, then wrap the loom in electrical tape, and wrap the first 2" or so of wire coming out of the pigtail. No fun to reproduce.

I've seen similar remotes that fit in a standard cupholder.

 

You guys are all talking about what screens are better and I'm over here like I just bought this fine specimen open box because it was $150 and will fit in the Sebring

 

Yep it's pretty small 4"×2". They're discontinued but you can find them everywhere for between $10-15. Works well for volume control.

 

Just finished installing the DD injectors, definitely not as bad as I thought it would be and no leaks! That freaking bolt on the back of the driver's side rail can go F itself.

Should I disconnect the battery and let it relearn with the new injectors?

 

Always after doing anything related to air, fuel, or spark. And don't be shocked if it initially runs like ass.

 

Sounds good, that's what I was thinking. Gonna replace the upper passenger O2 sensor later today, so I'll make sure I wipe it after that.