What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I'd love to see a photo of a 9" looking good. I looked around on facebook a little and the photos of larger screens looked pretty out of place or band-aided. I know bigger screens are always better. The modern jeep I drive for work has about a 7" screen in it, and I find it adequate.

Looks like the 4660 is on back-order. It might be on the way out? It looks like the 5700 is it's replacement.

 

I mean, doing a quick side-by-side compare using their tool, there are the things jumping out at me:

• Alpine has an AUX input option, the others don't - maybe if you wanted to attach a CD changer or portable DVD it's important?
• AX4000 has a resistive screen, which kinda sucks, AX6000 and Alpine are capacitive screens
• Alpine has slightly larger screen
• AX400 preamp voltage is weak (2v), AX400 is great (5v), Alpine is good (4v)
• Alpine supports more preamp outputs
• Sony has ~10% more rated wattage output
• Alpine supports newer Sirius 2.0 and HD Radio
• Alpine supports Siri-based CarPlay control, Sony doesn't
• All support wireless CarPlay and AndroidAuto (Note: AX5600 does NOT, "just in case" you considered ... FYI)
• Alpine supports multiple camera inputs
• AX4000, 6000 both have faster/higher power USB charging
• Sony AX4000 has no HDMI input, if important
• The Sony units add ALAC and DSD support, maybe good for some folks, but FLAC support on both brands is good for me
• All require steering wheel adapters if you have on-wheel controls
• The Sony units have a few more bands to EQ out the sound

Now ... what of that is important to you? I would never order the AX4000 because it's using a resistive screen. So it's a toss-up between the AX6000 and 507. I prefer the bottom face layout of the Sony. I've used both Sony and Alpine head units (and a plethora of Sony home receivers), and both are solid, long-lasting quality engineered products, but I prefer Alpine's head units - and only their head units, not a fan of their speakers and amps.

If you're not planning to run any aftermarket amps, the Sony does advertise a shred more power. The Alpine provides you with more preamp outs. If you listen to radio, and like HD radio (over the air, which is nice), and/or you intend to run Sirius, Alpine is a little better built out there.

As far as speakers go, no shocker to some on here, I think JBL hits that sweet spot of power and clarity vs. price. There's a reason you'll see the JBL logo at big concert venues and events, and JBL has wide support from the musician community. They're managing to pack a lot of accurate, true-to-life sound and many of their component speakers are rated at 3ohm vs. the typical 4ohm to help milk a little more oomph out. They're not for your average bassheads, but if you, for example, love live music, I can't recommend them enough just because of the solid reproduction. And there's a lot of JBL options available for our trucks. Several guys here are running them.

As long as you stay within the following brands on your speakers, it's hard to go wrong:

• JBL
• Focal
• Polk
• Hertz
• Morel
• MB Quart
• JL Audio
• Kicker
• Rockford

Morel, MB Quart, Hertz, and Focal are audiophile industry standards, but full disclosure, I haven't used Hertz or Focal in any install just hear great things. IIRC, @KNABORES is a Polk fan (I love their powered subs for home audio).

JBL comes pre-packaged with most of the adapters and crap you'll need and will probably include all brackets etc. you need. And @Cummins3500 can probably give you some install tips, as a fellow DC owner who just jumped the same hurdle you're headed toward!

 

I helped my brother install the Alpine 650 into his Passat a number of years ago. Its a nice unit but I needed the iDatalink interface ports for my Ferd that's why I went with Kenwood which I've used for a number of years. I do like the more modern capacitive screen of the Alpine to the cheaper resistive screen of the Kenwood. I know Alpine has units with iDatalink interface on them as well though.

 

Wait why? I mean I am. But why? Haha

 

...because you kindaa aaaarrre

 

I'm kinda like David Spare? I'll take that as a compliment.

Unless you're trying to make a pirate joke. We might have words.

 

Noooo.... no more conflict w/you Gen1'ers

You guys are waaaaay to serious for my calm, non-violent spirit; take the compliment and move on...

 

What? We're not violent. I'll fight anybody who says we are.

 

Went to the local salvage yard today to check out a grade “A” frame for replacement.

Well, I give it a “C-“. Crossmember by steering rack cut apart to get transmission out. Frame mount for rear leaf bracket cut in 1/2. I doubt both are easily replaceable.

 

What's the price on a frame? This thread has some current part numbers for the recall frames, https://www.tundras.com/threads/first-gen-frame-part-s.90442/#post-2324874 maybe @empty_lord can give you a heads up on which one you need for your truck. Prices seem to be right around $3k.

 

For something with that much damage, I'd expect under $1000, but I didn't even ask.

That cross member in front of the steering rack needs to be welded in there and the part isn't cheap:

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~crossmember~sub~assy~frame~no~2~51202-0c011.html

 

Man that sucks. How they going to advertise it as a grade A with any alterations to it???

 

@Jack McCarthy have you considered buying a cheap parts truck or highmiles POS with a good frame from TX or something? Just to swap. As long as the frame isn't damaged or rusted, it could work. Lots of states where rust isn't an issue with some clunkers on CL for cheap

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/d/dallas-toyota-tundra-parts/7633655360.html
But it's 2wd. Not sure if that would work.

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/ptd/d/phoenix-2000-toyota-tundra-47l-parting/7632069174.html

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/ptd/d/phoenix-2000-toyota-tundra-47l-parting/7632066495.html

 

I have but I’m limited on space so I can have a friend hold onto the frame without the body; right now I’m hoping to find one stripped.

If the salvage yard would sell me a decent frame, I could have them pull the body and engine and any other part they need so I could get the frame.

 

What if we find out that @shifty` doesn't actually know anything and just makes all this up?

Seriously though, I appreciate the info. So capacitive screens are worth it. And, I'll decide if its the Sony or Alpine. Guess I can't go wrong. I've had good luck with Sony, but never had an Alpine.

Thanks for the replies!

 

Tell him you need to change your fuel filter. Dont ask, tell.

j/k. Not all heros wear capes.... but i dont know if shiftish wears a cape or not.

 

I can’t get inti the site anymore for frame checks

 

I mean, I hear you, and I see you're kidding, but I'll say this b/c I've gotten called-out privately by skeptics in the past and didn't speak publicly to it. I guess skepticism is what it is, I'm pretty gd skeptical too.

Look, it's not lost on me ... I talk about a lot of trades/jobs on here I've held. Like, a very-not-normal variety of jobs, but it's what you do when that's what it takes to keep a roof overhead. That led to some weird ass jobs, everything from pizza store manager, to 99¢ movie theatre janitor, to electrical lamp retrofit team manager, to (legit, licensed) massage therapist for fibromyalgia patients, to one of those people who cold-calls folks for market research, and many more. Most had a foodservice component because it was easy to get night (swing) shifts. I had no choice but to start working on-the-books at 14 out of necessity (worked off the books starting at 12), and didn't stop working multiple jobs 'til I was in my late 20s. I took any job that paid well, hours fit with my other jobs, and I could master easily enough. I've probably been working more decades than most, I'm actively preparing to retire.

The shop I worked at is defunct today and I haven't talked to the owner in a couple of decades, but I can share the shop name, former location, owner name, home address, and my employment details. If you want to look him up and give him a shout, I'm sure he'd corroborate. I I had to skip town abruptly and cut all ties (legal stuff, I've talked about on here before). I know he's still alive, albeit retired at this point. He lives ~5ish miles of the old shop, he has a very unique name, and was still alive as of last year. I still look up folks sometimes, and last year I found some archived online articles from the local major newspaper about the shop and its activities... but I'm not about to dox him publicly.

 

Yea, but you're more of a smart feller, and less of a fart smeller. But its okay, you only have to wear a cape as often as you want.

 

I should probably try using ChatGPT to build responses ... I'd be interested if someone wanted to give it a shot with the hardware comparison above, just to see how good/bad it is. I suspect AI can't give legitimate technically-focused feedback on the plusses or minuses, or understand how those may affect the user depending on their desired application though

 

I agree with @Mr.bee. Pop you cape on. I start all my Tundra related wondering with a stop at your master list of tundra ownership. I genuinely appreciate it.

Now enough about you and back to me. I am not planning on adding an amp. If I get the Alpine and it has 18 watts of power, with speakers I should focus on sensitivity?

 

I personally feel 2w is negligible in the grand scheme of things, so I'm not about to get hung up on wattage. I also prefer external amplification, and I'm generally happy with my components using just my Alpine.

I'd sit here and tell you the "right thing", i.e. you should focus on sensitivity any time you pick a speaker. But reality is, I'll stick my neck out and say I almost guarantee almost every brand in my list above will be in the range of 89-93. If that ends up being true, it really makes that a moot point.

The big things I'd be focusing on are speaker material/composition (cone, dome, surround), resistance (ohms), minimum/nominal/peak power handling, frequency range, fitment, whether it's bi-/multi-axial and/or has a crossover - in that order.

And yes, composition is highest on my list. Sound weird? Think about it ... your speaker can have the best specs in the world, if it's using a foam surround and that dry rots 3-4 years down the road, what then? There's arguments to be made on tweeters also, but that's some religion I'm not touching.

Hopefully that answered your question?

There are a ton of speakers on Crutchfield that - for 6.5" + 0.75" combos at least - under $200 that have great specs. Again, I personally prefer the construction (material/composition) JBL typically uses, and prefer their choice to run at a lower resistance (3ohm), which a few others do (Infinity does as well). This isn't a problem if you're running direct wiring (1spk per physical channel), but if you're running parallel/series circuits, you can run into overload/underload problems, respectively.

On the 6.5 components, I'd recommend the JBL Club 602C if they're a fit for your vehicle. I had sort of a unique situation, knowing I'd be running off my Alpine directly until I picked a JL 5/6 channel amp to install and got my DVC 8s in. I opted for the JBL Club 6500C and JBL Club 6520, despite the foam surrounds (LOL), knowing it may take a while to finish everything. At amp install, I intended to upgrade the front mids (specifically) to something more robust that will handle more power, likely pull the front door crossover, and swap out the rear doors for 6x9s which I personally love. My truck gets parked indoors most of the time, so I wasn't worried about heat killing the foams.

 

I'm ~50 miles from @shifty` , pretty sure I saw a white Gen1 Tundra in Atlanta with a dude in a cape when I was ITP...betting it was him!

 

You'll know it's me when you see the license plate. And if you see it, please honk wildly so I can look around for you

 

Jpink has a custom plate that says......Jpink.

I'm guessing yours is similar.

 

I guess you'll know when you see it

 

Does Georgia allow the ` at the end?

 

Actually, funny enough, that tick ` is something I only use on forums where someone else got the user account shifty i.e. without it. On here, LS1Tech, probably another forum somewhere.

As stupid as it is, a lot of people end up tagging @Shifty, whoever the hell that is, it's not me, so I never get a notification. I never capitalize my nickname. That person signed up, never posted anything, and was last seen a few days later. I wish the forum admins could delete them and rename me to remove the tick symbol, but ... I'm sure they're overloaded and I'm not going to bother them with that.