4WD giving me issues.

Hello all, so today I was on some gravel, and I didn’t need it but always try and turn on 4wd once a month. Haven’t had an issue until today. Did the whole blink in 4hi, and didn’t switch over. Rolled it slowly, put in neutral, and pressed the button a few times.

I didn’t spend too much time on it as I was just trying to bike, but can I test if it’s catching tomorrow on pavement without hurting the truck? Like just down the street, in a straight line.

 

Yes. 4WD is only a problem on pavement when making tight turns, like in a parking lot. And its not that big of a problem, you're just going to skid a little and it will be harder to turn. You won't even notice it if you're mostly going straight down a street.

I've put tens of thousands of miles on my truck in 4WD on the highway. Don't worry about that, just start trying to fix it. Look into the many posts here on the 4WD solenoid, it seems to often be the culprit, especially when its not used often.

 

Thanks for the info, do you know when a faulty actuator is the culprit? I hope it’s just what you mentioned.

 

I'm not actually very knowledgable about this particular problem, as I've never had it, but many others have and hopefully will chime in. You seem to have the most common symptom.

 

It's entirely possible it's an actuator.

This is the link I'd drop on you for diagnostics: https://www.tundras.com/threads/4wd-issues.119382/#post-3081795

I don't think you'll find anyone truly knowledgeable about this specific problem, I'm definitely not holding any specific hands-on info about it.

 

Thanks man, I took it out today and still no shifting, crawled under the truck and felt like I heard some humming from each actuator. I’m assuming there is two? The vid looks like the transfer case one, there is also an actuator I believe in the front diff right?

I tried to listen to any changes when hit the button, since I don’t have another person right now, I could only hear from the truck, but almost sounded like a picture was being taken, like it was trying to switch but couldn’t. I’ll try to see later, and open up the motor to clean it.

So I’m pretty novice, but if we have two actuators, the further back one is the transfer case correct? That looks like the one in the vid you linked.

 

Yes, two, diff and tc IIRC (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

Some guys have found that just tapping an actuator will get it to shift once or twice, similar to what we'd do with starters and solenoids BITD.

 

I’ll give that a shot, I definitely hear the transfer case one working which is good, still can’t tell without a second person yet. When I hit the actuator, should I go for the entire assembly? Or strictly the motor.

Thanks again too, last thing is if I do get it to work, how do I prevent it again?

 

I’m not much of an off roader but I do try to excercise it every month or so. I have about a quarter mile section on my non busy neighborhood street out in front of my house where I start at cove end, proceed straight for short distance, select 4Hi while moving at about 10 mph, continue on for short bit and stop, put in neutral and then select 4LO. I end that trip and turn around and do it again. Haven’t had issues in the 14 yrs I have owned it. Periodically I go in back yard where it use to be a par 5 golf hole and do a little off roading

 

I mean, it could be what you do and where you live... If you live up north, where elements are an issue, that's probably your biggest issue, I'd hafta assume you use it regularly. If you're down south and hwy miles only, lack of usage is probably your biggest issue.

First thing I'd do to prevent again is to check if there's any water or air penetration happening. Like on the tc actuator, there's a small rubber vent hose that breaks down and lets air in. There may be a seal on the actuator caps too.

It's my understanding folks who've reported success are tapping around the metal body with a small ballpeen, and on the plastic with a dead blow, but I'm having a hell of a time digging up posts...

 

No problem, I thinks it’s a mix. I came back from Bozeman and the thing worked like a charm in the winter, and spring time mud. I have been too busy since May to really off-road and put on 4HI. Didn’t think 2 months would be a difference but oh well.

Some new things too, I tested with a 2nd person. I can hear both actuators getting power, so I’m assuming they are fine, now I can notice a bit of grinding going on, like the front diff actuator is trying to grab it. I check fluid levels and they are fine.

 

I'll openly admit: You've gotten to my limit of knowledge in this area. Hopefully someone else can hop in. I'd really love to get my hand in some guts so I can better visualize what is going on and get better ideas of what to check/tinker with.

 

Yeah it’s weird, I hear the TC go on, then after the ADD one. It makes a noise so assume it’s working .

gonna try jacking it up tomorrow and hammer the front while moving the wheel. Hopefully it’s just locked up

 

Did you try putting it in 4hi while in drive?

 

Yeah in drive, going forward, in neutral, reverse, in drive going hard left/right and hard reverse turn.

I even got the stupid idea to hit a sloped curb at slow speed hoping it’ll knock something in place, no dice

 

Another new thing to add, now my truck is making a sort of grinding noise up front, even with the button off. I got my mechanic looking at it Wednesday, nervous I broke something up front.

The only thing I can think of, is it was raining heavy and went through a puddle that was deeper than I thought, that slowed me down from 30 to 20, but don’t see how that’s any different than braking.

 

When was the last time you checked or drained your diffs and tc fluids? It's not hard to check - remove the fill plug up top; if a little fluid dribbles out you're definitely topped off; if not, top off until fluid dribbles out. May as well change the fluids while in there - process is easy, always make sure you can crack open the fill port first (also makes fluid run faster), after fill plug is out, open drain plug, drain, reinstall drain plug, fill fluid until you start to dribble out up top, install fill plug.

But if you did as you said and water entered the case, this may be the issue; simple drain-fill with proper fluid may solve your problem unless it's too late. And you should see mostly water as you crack the drain plug, after opening the fill plug. If you went dry internally, that would explain this issue, and to that point, I should mark up the diagnostic steps in the other thread to include that.

Note: If you have LSD rear (you should see a sticker left of the fill bolt indicating that), it's extremely picky about which fluid it'll take. It's an impossible feat to find a synthetic that'll play nice, trust me on this.

 

With the top off however nothing changed yet, maybe it has to cycle around first. Also what is a recommendation for gear oil? I used just a quart of 75-90, I imagine for a full change it will take around 4

another thing to add, it takes about 3-4 seconds for the light on the dash to come one after hitting the button. Thanks again for the help man!

 

Quantities vary from truck to truck, rear diff holds the most. I think my tc was around 1QT, front diff was more than 1 but less than 2, and rear was as at least as much as both combined. Your Owner's Manual will tell you amounts.

For my '06 with LSD in the rear, I went with 75w90 full synthetic in the front diff and tc. I tried the same in the LSD rear, and I'd have needed to add so much slip additive to get it to stop chattering, I dumped it all, got Mobil1 to give my money back, and put in Lucas 80w90 via forum suggestion.

If you don't have LSD rear, no reason you can't run full syn in everything, 75w90, 75w110 or 75w140 full synthetic are all listed as "compatible" depending on which manufacturer you go with. A lot of folks on here prefer Amsoil Severe Gear. I'm usually a Mobil1 guy for oils, but like Lucas too.

If you prefer dino vs. synthetic, Lucas is what I'd recommend, their 80w90 is a solid product.

 

So bit the bullet and got some diagnosis on the issue. Didn’t get the work done, but seems a bit excessive. This is the front actuator is seems right?

it just doesn’t make sense, as I can hear both actuators working, but oh well.

 

Chances are this is the baseline, they're going to get in there, and tell you more work is needed, guess who'll foot the bill?

 

https://imgur.com/a/G4iMwjE

https://imgur.com/a/53JNEgr

That’s what I’m worried of, I tried the whole jacking up the front, I also took some videos of it, don’t know how to post them here but first link is the front ADD, and second is TCase.

My most basic understanding, is that since I can hear a noise being made, that they are both “working” but then again I can’t figure out wth the issue is.

 

I mean, it sounds like they're doing something. The one on the tc sounds like it's engaging, but kicking back to me. I may be full of shit. I've never been under my truck when 4HI is engaged, which is probably a good thing, so ... take with a grain of salt.

@Tundra2 can you tap the speaker-unmute icon on those videos and give a listen, since you were haggling and fighting through your own 4WD issues? Maybe your younger ears are still discerning enough.

 

Sounds like the transfer case is out of time, and needs to be reset.

The servos are trying, but I think they are running out of shaft to move

 

I know it’s hard to not be actually see the truck, but since it’s out of time like you theorize, would replacing the front diff ADD just be a waste of money?

 

Not necessarily a waste, but I would try to reset/time the rear actuator first.

@shifty` can you dig up my posts from crackie around Christmas of 21 when I fixed mine?

 

Starts right around here, with you patching up the burnt wiring: https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-32#post-2433445

But you were tackling a few issues at the same time. Nonetheless, maybe you can find the gems you need there, or OP can read a few pages to see your saga and all the stuff with getting fork aligned etc.