What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I thought he was referring to the black grime on the outside of the connector

 

Yeah, no, I only cleaned the outside. I think what happened is that the sweet lube-y goodness inside gradually migrated out over time and then a bunk of dirt and gunk stuck to that.

 

Pretty happy I've got a good exhaust shop close by. Needed new flanges for the O2 sensors and they replaced everything from the converters to the (newish) muffler. Looks and sounds just about stock again and for a lot better price than having to replace the converters.

 

I wired in a short jumper on the back of the fog switch (my fog switch is push button on the dash, not on the turn signal arm coming off the steering column). I don’t recall what I jumped to/from, but my fogs can be switched on anytime my lights are switched on, either just the running lights, or headlights, and stay on with the brights. I also tapped into the fog power for a signal wire to a relay running my light bars. Both light bars and fogs all come on with one push of a button.

 

No pics?

 

It's hot outside and I didn't want to lay down on the asphalt

 

Fair enough. Just thought I’d ask since you showed the receipt. Did they use mild steel 02 bungs/plate or stainless? The mild steel is alway the first to rust much like the welds.

 

I'm not sure to be honest. Either way by the time they rust off I probably won't own it anyway.

 

I'd like the flashers to continue to flash when i step on the brakes, but not enough to join a Ford forum. :-\

 

I'd love that, but my trucks have the switch on the stalk.

 

hi Beau Beau

 

Your flashers stop flashing when you step on the brakes??

 

There was a harness for this but if your truck was 2002 or newer it will just blow up the integration relay. I have one and it works great on my 01. Very weird no real explanation of why.

 

I did not get any harness. Just used a 4” piece of 16 or 14 gauge wire. My trucks an ‘00. Never had a problem. I actually ran a light bar and my fogs like that for a while. All LED so not alot of power pull. Probably why it never fried the circuit

 

Nick, I think it’s the headlight DRL feature which makes it a little different.

 

That and/or without a diode on the newer ones it backfeeds and burns something in the integration relay/fusebox.


I've got mine wired to work with low or high beams, but not parking/anytime. Just 2 diodes needed.

To anytime it should only take 1 diode.

 

Upvote for taking a pic at the moment you engaged your quantum drive mode. Noice!

 

Upvote for use of the word Schmootz.

 

Yeah that's right. Remember that now that you said it.

 

That makes sense. I dont have DRL. Guess that’s why i was able to do it with a simple jumper wire and no diodes.

 

Damn. I have one too but after @Sirfive's BS and @daveeasa's shenanigans in the Costco lot I was scared to install it. I might still have it laying around if that psycho woman didn't steal it with half my other shit when she left

 

Yeah, to me the risks / reward were not there. Diodes may have solved for that and lord knows I have diodes but I also rather like the OEM fog behavior really. Then again, I may just go switch-pros for fog 1, fog 2, aux reverse and chase as well as backlight and shell 1 and shell 2. That’s 7 right off the bat, maybe 8 is side mirror heat or seat heat and then I do two custom buttons in the driver cubby for the rest.

Though I may use the cargo light button for shell lighting or at least one of the two shell lights.

First up is aux battery but before that I have to solve for my now dead headlights by swapping back to the old harness, building my own, or buying the correct one now that I know I’m not a standard ground switched setup.

 

I used to see people with the switchpros and think 'what the hell does anyone need all those switches for?' Now that I've got 5 switches either drilled into my dash or stuck on w/ double sided tape...... makes perfect sense.
1) air compressor
2) air locker
3) chase lights
4) LED whip lights
5) exhaust cutout
and there are several circuits I'd like to make switched

 

S, forgot I’ll need a switch for my compressor too. Hah. Yeah I’ll probably run short on switch-pros circuits.

 

Cooled down to 80 today. It's pretty shiny and bonus points because the check engine light also went out with it.

 

Nice! Better work than the aluminized pipes i got in the same area for about the same price.

 

1988 E350 chassis. I have to back it off a busy street. Hill. Turn on emergencies, pull to side of road, wait for traffic to clear.
When you apply the brakes the flashers stop flashing & you get brake lights only. I had a 1989 ford Chassis that did the same thing.
Wouldn't it be nice if there was replacement flasher relay I could just swap in.

 

My old motor home was on an E450 chassis. The cruise, flashers, blinkers and brake lights were all wonky when I got it. My dad removed every light bulb from every socket and cleaned the socket and put some dielectric grease on the bulb. All the lights and systems started working normally after. Simple corrosion causing some shorts in multiple sockets.

 

Truck stuff