Need Suspension and CV Angle Help.

Hello my name is Chase I am from Forks WA.

I purchased a 2005 access cab limited in March, has 134k. It was on original shocks. I was advised to put bilstein 5100s on the 3rd notch for a level ride. I installed the front on notch 3 and installed the rears. This left me with a hefty reverse rake leaving the front too high. I was advised to install the 1.5" icon add a leaf kit to level it. I ordered it and it will be here tomorrow.

When I bought the truck it had a slight rumble which I noticed the first week driving it. It starts at 20mph, is the worst at 50mph and is gone at 80mph. The rumble has gotten worse since driving 1000 miles with the truck raked. I looked under the truck and the CVs are slinging grease now all over. In the photos I already wiped the grease away with my fingers.

I need advice on the best route to go.( Esgs needle bearing bushing replacement, Napa extended CVs, and new inner/outer tie rods, lower and upper control arms.

Or instead of the Napa extended CVs should I do some sort of diff drop with normal CVs?

I am looking for advice on how to proceed. I don't know anything about this stuff. The wobble at 50mph is making my stomach queezy and I stopped driving the truck two days ago. I really appreciate your time.  

 

Just need more robust clamps on the boots to keep them from pulling back and slinging grease (short term solution)
There’s a larger boot kit that can be installed that also prevents the boots from coming off the CV and slinging grease.

 

Also didn’t read in your post where you’ve had an alignment done post lift?

 

What about the rumble or vibration? I was going to replace the needle bearing with the ecgs bushing to root out it not being the torque converter. Shouldn't I replace the CVs while I'm doing that?

 

I'm in forks 160 miles 1 way from a reputable shop in Tacoma. I have not gotten an alignment. It doesn't sway at all if that matters. Steering feels 100%. If I have to go to a shop it's a whole ordeal of having to book a room for a day or two with the dogs and Uber from the room.

 

A lift of over 2” will definitely change the alignment. Probably needs tow adjusted at a minimum. Is the vibration most prominent in your seat or steering wheel?

edit: toe not tow

 

The 3rd notch is the limit for stock angles it said in the instructions and gives a lift of 1.7" I was told to put it there for a level ride on the first gen tundra fb group which was incorrect. That group hasn't been reliable so I made a profile here. The vibration is in the seat. It transfers from under the feet and vibrates the body of the truck with a rumble that makes you car sick. I often grab the passanger arm rest while driving to stabilize myself so I don't get queezy.

So should I not order extended cvs from Napa? They're in the cart right now. Trying to figure out a parts list and do it all at once to eliminate the issues.

 

Vibrations primarily in the seat are usually from rear suspension. Wheel balance, driveshaft balance, carrier bearings are all suspects.

 

Also, you have a topper and a rack adding weight to your rear suspension. Those leafs will lose some arch over time and sag a little from time or overloading. Add 2-300# of accessories and it’s likely the rear was an inch lower than original. Your front lift may have been level for the original rear ride height.

 

I replaced the carrier bearing and u joints before looking into the needle bearing. Had the drive shaft inspected by a shop. They said they couldn't find a thing wrong with the truck but didn't drive it or have time too. This is what I mean by no good shops around here. Just cleaning my throttle body, replacing the carrier bearing, ujoints and serpentine belt I provided and an inspection of the drive shaft was 640$ out the door. After eating that last month I'm just trying to fix it myself if possible.

 

Sounds like those ko2’s are unbalanced. Were they mounted after the 5100’s?

 

My thinking was replacing the CVs since I'm in there anyway instead of rebuilding or rebooting.

 

AND inner CV joints.

 

Save the factory axles. Dont give them away for some $20 core charge.

 

Before the 5100s. Wheels and tires mounted october 2022 by beaverton toyota according to records.

 

I’ve not had that experience. CV issues usually have been felt through the steering wheel. Good to know.

 

I just went outside and took some pictures. I do have a 50lb 69x47 inch rack and a 3/4inch bed platform with 4 inch mattress. I installed all that since purchasing. Sounds like the plan is to get the icon add a leaf installed and tires balanced first before ordering any cv axles. Discount tire wants 90$ out the door to balance. Will just schedule it I guess. I just don't want to drive 200miles round trip for a balancing if I have other issues. Not sure what route I should go on the axles. I ordered the extended ones from Napa and will have to wait till they deliver to the store to get a refund on them. If I don't need extended axles how do I go about having my oem ones rebuilt? I'm just trying to get all the Preventative Maintenance out of the way so I can be worry free for a few years.

 

It’s a messy job but pretty easy and straightforward. Buy new inner and outer boots with clamps, either oem or aftermarket. All-pro has a good kit and some of us have gone with ORS high angle inner boots that require trimming some of the boot mounting flange. Some think it’s overkill but I’m glad I went that route. Release the snap ring in the inner cv joint, remove old boots, clean the joints of old grease, slide new boots on, regrease the joints, set the boots and attach the clamps. A cv boot clamp plier will help.

 

I appreciate it. I'm watching videos on rebuilds now. I called NAPA about a cancelation. I'd have to wait till they come in and do a return in store (no biggie). However the guy clarified these are extended travel and not extended CVs. He said they will work with a stock height or lift and they are designed to have extended travel of componets and are not extended length CVs. He recommended I use them for the benefit of increased travel over rebuilding the OEMs. He also recommended replacing the needle bearing with the ecgs bushing, so he knows what's up. Even offered to use his garage. I'm in for 500$ flat on the extended travel CVs. Curious what you think the way to go is. OEM with higher angle boots and new grease or the new extended travel Napa CVs. The list is where I'm at with parts so far on the front end rebuild.

 

I prefer oem parts that’s why I rebuilt mine instead of aftermarket or reman. Inner high angle and regular outer boots 5+ years ago were $175 with grease and clamps. Rebuild took a few hours but worth it in my opinion. I’ve wheeled a lot and put them through their paces and haven’t had any issues at all. I personally would put the $500 towards new boots and then have more cash for other upgrades. Others will say buy new cvs and keep the oems as spares. I have faith that I won’t need a spare since I did the work. I also wouldn’t put any Napa products on my truck but that’s just me.

 

Also, a good guy here, @FrenchToasty has the needle bearing tools and loans them to members in need. There’s a sticky in the 1st gen section about it. You could return them and bribe him with some good PNW brews.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/best-gen-ecgs-bushing-tool.59664/

 

Same. I've used oem on all my cars. Probably why my 96 tacoma made it to 480k before finally failing. The reason for considering the NAPA axles is because everyone on the FB group is using them with their lifts and it's what was reccomended there beside oem. Figured if I used oem they would fail again eventually given I'm off road 80% of the time in the mtns and the limited travel of stock compared to extended travel CVs. I'm also in an apartment upstairs with no shop available to me. Which makes replacing direct in the parking lot over a rebuild more feasible at this current time. Thanks for the advice.

 

My advice potentially isn't going to be popular but it's the easiest solution with least expense... Drop to the 2nd notch on the 5100s. It should pull you down about 3/4", and I suspect you'll ride a little better. Drop an AAL kit out back for an inch and enjoy a near-level look with plenty of room to stuff 32.8"s up front.

On the vibration, do you find it's consistent, or does it subside when you let off the gas?

Are you sure you properly clocked your driveshaft when replacing the carrier?

If you insist on staying at the current height - which I wouldn't, I'd go to bottom notch and install a lifted spring to achieve your lift, OME 2885 would leave you about 1/2" higher up front, OME 2884 just about level - but if you do insist, you're going to want to install extended swaybar links, and it'd probably be in your best interest to move to aftermarket UCAs.

 

I returned my spring compressor kit. It almost broke in half using it. Was made for a baby civic or something lol. The icon leaf pack arrives tomorrow. I thought about dropping it back but wouldn't there still be an issue with the cvs throwing grease now that they've started? Would the icon diff drop solve the angle issues?

The vibration is at cruise control speeds. So just on the gas enough to maintain speed. My town is 30mph then goes to 60mph. As soon as I turn out and get to 30mph the rumble is there. Its the worst it can be at flat 50mph in cruise control. Its slightly worse trying to Maintain speed going up a hill. It's progressed since lifting the truck. If I floor it or press on the gas to accelerate there is no rumble, if I hit the brakes there is no rumble. I was going to do the needle bearing and axles before considering torque converter. The carrier bearing was installed and drive shaft inspected at Bruce specialty auto in port Angeles. I cant answer if it was clocked correctly.

 

Takker your truck is, steeper the angle, the more it's going to want to sling. And on diff drop, there are plenty of guys here more lifted than you w/o a diff drop and no issues.

Just reiterating here: Ribration/rumble goes away if you jump on the gas? And it also subsides if you tap the brakes? Asking all these questions for a reason.

Also, when was the last time you greased your driveline? When was the last time you confirmed your rear drum brakes are adjusted correctly?

 

PS - I just looked at your list. Looks like folks told you to stick w/OEM on the axles already. Also make sure you go OEM on the cam bolts. So far I haven't seen anyone find non-OEM that doesn't use plastic sleeves.

Someone else on here mentioned putting the NAPA 'extended' axles side by side w/OEM and they were the same links. They posted pics too IIRC.

 

Yep. Usually its the outer joint that wears out and you do indeed feel that through the wheel, but the inner one can fail too and that causes frame shudder.

It will drive you nuts because its usually the last thing you check. Usually Only shows up during acceleration and deceleration (via engine braking)

 

The ujoints were greased 1 month ago by the same shop that installed the carrier bearing and said the driveline is 100% (not sure how reputable they are) The ujoints are throwing grease after they greased them.

The rumble is only at maintaining speeds or slight accelation around 50mph. If i push on the throttle with any intent to accele ratewith force or i hit the brakes there is zero rumble. I cant answer 100% if there is rumble on deceleration without braking. I believe it so.

 

This frame or body shudder is what I'm experiencing and trying to eliminate.

 

What type of rack is that on the cap?