First gen long crank when hot

I searched for threads but couldn't seem to find anything. I found more on this site when googling?

2000 Tundra 4.7 4x4 192,000 miles

Bought this truck about 4 months ago. In the last month i started experiencing long cranks before start. When it did start, it would turn over and BARELY catch. Then i'd let it idle for a minute before taking off. Currently in New Mexico and every day reaching about 100 degrees outside.

I had a fuel pump and filter installed. Problem continued. Then did a fuel pump resistor, fuel injection pressure damper. The shop called me and told me it was ready. Literally THE FIRST START in the parking lot the problem was still there.

This is exactly whats happening: the first start of the day is fine. Starts right up. Cranks for a split second and then starts. Totally normal. Then if I drive across town, get it to temp, and then kill it.... if i start it immediately after it'll start right up. If i let it sit for 30 min to an hour, it'll have long cranks. Approximately 2-3 seconds. (1 mississippi, 2 mississippi, 3 mississippi) then starts. Barely catches, then idles and drives fine.

Yesterday I pulled 1 plug and it looked fine. I dont know how new the plugs, injectors, coils are? I bought THIS truck because the car fax had 53 service records from a local Toyota dealership. Thought it was in good shape. I also am half a tank in with a bottle of injector cleaner. The $7 stuff in the gas station.

A couple of threads said clean the MAF, which I did. Others say crank position sensor? Im kind of frustrated and annoyed. $1100 later and my problem isn't fixed. Found a few threads like this online. Nobody seems to post the solution. Aparently this is a problem for the tacomas, first gen and 2nd gen tundras too?

Help?? Thanks in advance.

 

Battery?

 

It turns over fine. No lack of battery power. Could a battery cause the long crank and no start?

 

Just curious if the shop diagnosed your problem and then recco’d those ‘fixes’ you’ve made already?

 

I’d definitely check CCA on your battery. I’ve had similar issues on an old battery, battery test passed but low on CCA when they did it.

 

It turns over fine tho? I mean, i'll have a shop check that out. And my mechanics knowledge is limited, but just wanna make sure we are clear: it turns over fine. Didn't realize this could cause a long crank and hard start

I'll check that.

 

With it being soo hot I wonder if it could be some type of vapor lock issue?

 

possibly. I just had battery tested as recommended above. Tech at auto zone said everything Including alternator and starter are fine. Said possibly vapor lock in the copper line somewhere.

he also said because of COVID and nobody driving anywhere there is old gas at the gas stations. Gas that’s a blend for colder temperatures. So, the current gas I’m running isn’t meant for current 100 degree weather.
Does that make sense? Who knows. I went to the service station and filled up (was about half empty) on premium.
I’ll try anything.

 

Had a Honda Accord that did similar when hot. Turned out to be the start relay in the dash just behind the fuse panel. Replaced it, no problem after that. Just a thought. Check for a similar relay as the starter relay and swap them to see if it helps.

https://youtu.be/iWbZmi-Wsac

 

Did you ever get a fix for this? My truck does the exact same thing.

 

Bypass the fuel resistor?

Wait, is this coming after you swapped the timing belt and all of the other maintenance stuff? And does yours also happen only when hot?

 

Yes, this started after my rebuild. It only happens when hot. On cold starts, it fires right up. When hot, it takes a while to start, it always does, just sometimes I have to let it crank for a while.

I’m leaning toward the coolant temp sensor, but I am not sure.

 

Could be. Heatsoak being a symptom ... heatsoak is typically a problem with anything that's a resistive circuit and/or resistor loaded. I'd try bypassing the fuel resistor, since it's easy to do, and give it a go.

If this issue was with a cold engine, I'd blame it on possible fuel leak, i.e. you had a breach in the fuel line causing a slow run back to the tank, and truck needing a little extra at crank time.

I'm trying to remember back, did you replace any peripheral sensors during this swap? Did you remove the fuel rail, or replace any ignition parts? Because the alternate nobody wants to think i: maybe you got counterfeit parts?

On the latter, you may try swapping any suspect parts back with OEM just for S&G. But I wouldn't do that just yet.

 

I replaced a lot of things. Injectors, coil packs, plugs, etc. I did not change out the coolant temp sensor.

how do I bypass the fuel relay?

 

In the 2002, I believe the fuel relay is the finned device mounted to the top of the driver's fender, below/between the brake master cylinder and fuse/relay box.

I'd confirm, but I think it has 2 wires going to it. Shoot me a pic.

 

I’ll get one tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

thankfully this won’t be as big of an issue as my last one!

 

I assume that is it?

 

You could have a dirty or plugged off fuel filter. A lot of 1st gen owners don't know there is one and it needs to be changed once in a while. It's located along the frame on the driver's side. I'd start there. Sounds like your truck is starved for fuel during start. Could also be a weak fuel pump.

Edit: Never mind, you did that already. I guess I should read the post first next time....

 

Negative, that's the fuel pump resistor.
Fuel pump relays are located in Engine bay fuse box as shown in below pic from 2002 EWD.

 

It's NEVER the fuel filter on the 1st gens. It never has been, for any member here, ever. It's not worth the effort to replace it. This isn't a Ford, Dodge, or Chevy.

 

We were talking about bypassing the fuel pump resistor.

He's having an issue with slow cranks when the engine is hot. I'd mentioned heatsoak often impacts resistors, and I was wondering if the problem persisted if he bypassed the fuel pump resistor, just to rule it out as the issue.

 

That’s funny, he asked about “fuel relay” but I digress, perhaps he was mistaken….carry on !

 

Ah. I think my eyes and brain were on autopilot for that one

 

Sorry, I didn’t realize there was a difference between relay and resistor.

I am just looking to try to fix my slow start when hot issue.

 

Can anyone tell me how to bypass the resistor?

 

I found that image to test it, I guess it’s pretty simple just to jumper across the terminals with alligator clips to test it out.

 

Yep

 

If your having issues when hot you may want to test it hot.