What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

You might have better luck with the 2.5 gen crowd.

 

Nah, us 2nd genners are better at this kinda thing.

 

Yep. The only thing 2.5 Gen’ers are good at is fake hood scoops.

 

LOL

If I’m honest you’re not totally wrong.

To make matters worse I am super picky about quality of work, and I can’t live up to my own standards a lot of times. In this instance the bypass kit wiring harness is eating away at my soul because it’s not dressed up and secured as neatly as I would like. Have to wait for that overnighted part to show up so I can finish up.

As per normal this install reminded me why it’s nice to hire a pro who does wrenching for a living to do things. Last time it was spark plugs, which weren’t that tough but these days my fondness for being leaned over a fender on a fairly tall vehicle are gone.

 

Pulled it into the garage on friday (day off) so I could utilize the garage AC and lift the truck. (5100's +2 Coach Builder Shackles)


Overall I feel it looks a ton better. The wheels are still the OE TRD Pro wheels, so on the smaller side (31") but they look a lot better with the lift. Took it to Firestone for the lifetime alignment yesterday morning. They got the toe/camber good, but they couldn't get the caster better than 2 degrees.


Also while I was doing this all, I painted the skid plate on Friday with Rust-Oleum's Rust Reformer (a lot of surface rust). Just hit it with a high power pressure washer, waited for it to dry then coated it. The tow hooks were small enough I could put them in the media blaster and I did a quick clean up on them then painted them. Sadly the painting of them didn't go great but whatever the vehicle isn't perfect. Got them both installed... not the best picture as it's parked too close to my other car.


Oh and my CEL came back for a small evap leak (0456)... was gone for about 1k miles and a month

 

mhm I get ya, I’m the same way with my truck and with the vehicles that come through the shop, a lot of it is just patience, but of course you’re gonna get pissed off and wanna throw a wrench- you just can’t let it beat ya

 

Gas cap? Did you just get gas by chance?

 

This doesn't apply to the counties where the big cities are. Those of us who live in the same counties as Houston (or people in Austin, Dallas, San Antonio, etc.) will still have to do the inspections. Apparently it's just a matter of different requirements for more rural/less densely populated areas than for cities and suburbia.

 

I had to remove my kid's seat to clean it, and that gave me access to the quite dirty back seat. So I cleaned the upholstery. Before and after:





Shadows from the tree overhead make it look a bit patchy or blotchy, but it actually came out super clean. If it wasn't 100 degrees and humid outside I would have wanted to do the front seats too, after seeing such good results.

Oh also got the oil changed, power steering system flushed and rear diff serviced yesterday before doing this.

 

Seats came out great. What did you use to clean them?

 

A new gas cap is like $35 from the dealer parts counter, a pretty reliable fix for an evap code right?

 

depends on the evap code, small evap leak = probably... not always though, maybe a line cracked or purge or vent valve went out; but generally starting at a gas cap is a good place to start

 

Replaced the gas cap with OEM about a month and a half ago in hopes to fix the CEL. It stayed off for about a month, but came back

 

What codes are you pulling....

 

Pulled out my bedliner to clean under and check the rust spots. Not good

 

0456 Only

https://www.tundras.com/threads/p0456-small-evap-leak.124447/

 

The purge vsv is another common cause of that code. I hate to throw parts at a problem, but that (other than the gas cap) seems to be the next cheapest and easiest DIY fix for that code.

Just lift up the engine over, and it is easily accessible... Prior to spending $$ on the replacement part, take a look at the vacuum hoses running to and away from it and just check for obvious signs of leaking/damage. But, usually w/the single code, it's an indication that the leak is so small you're not going to be able to detect (sometimes even w/a smoke test)....

 

Thanks, I thought about buying that before too. I'll order it now and pick it up from the dealer next time i pass by!

 

Yeah, it's 5-10 minutes at the most to swap it out; and good call on the OE part

 

Are you someone who likes topping off their tank, if so stop doing that.

 

I really like my little junker 4x4 Frontier, it goes places my 2wd Tundra can only stare wistfully at (and/or get pulled out of) but I really love my Tundra, just got her back and it's like putting on a pair of well worn comfy shoes.
A little later than expected but I expect her to hit 250k in two days...

 

Greased the drivelines. Going to add that task to my oil change routine.

 

I've heard this messes up the charcoal canister... i've only had the vehicle for about 1.5k miles now so it really depends on if the previous owner did or not... I don't top it off now at least though.

 

What part number is that? I'm getting two diff ones...

25860-0S010
25860-0S020

It looks like there's two purge valves right next to eachother, which is the right one? It looks like you said the 20 one based on the pictures.

 

Went topless..

 

I just replaced the one w/part ending in 20...

If I remember right, I paid about $85 for it; and I believe the other one was only about $40... So, wouldn't hurt to do both while you're there.

 

Good call, I just bought them both. Time is money right?

 

I used this stuff, works great! They have a heavier-duty version made for carpets as well, which I've also used on mine.