General Supercharger Thread

Have you used a flashing software other than HPT in the past? VFT, D3, etc.? If so, have you tried to see if you're able to use one of those to see if the ECU will take one of those tunes? If you have a copy of Techstream, try connecting and see if it will do a Health Check. Even try to see if you get any response from an OBDII BT/WiFi dongle that you might use with your phone. What happens if you try to connect VCM Scanner with the key in RUN, will it connect? Will it start scanning/a log? Without being able to get a new ECU from your local Toyota dealership, try calling others, the really big ones. There might be someone able to bench flash your current one as well.

 

Yes. Which is why I was asking; thought occurred to me your asymmetrical set up may introduce other problems.
If I am not mistaken that MAF code is a generic one not necessarily related to maxing out the MAF, the MAF voltage code is the one that indicates you need an intake upgrade.

 

i believe mine is just a tuning issue. it only happens when i do really hard pulls. so twice now. other than that, no issues with maf really.

ahh youre very observant. youre more observant than me haha. my installer and tuner recommended a larger intake actually, i sorta refused because i really like the look of the TRD intake. so i opted to keep mine instead of upgrading.

 

No luck, battery is good, laptop is good, system won't communicate with the ECM. Maybe a blown main fuse? I can't see into the windows, the first window starting at the engine side I can see is still in tacted, but I can't see the others.

 

That was fun.

 

It is unwritten but I think the restriction starts around ~475 but you also have the variation in dynos.

You can always mod the intake. MRP sells intake tubes with the MAF mount on it. They also offer custom lengths you can order.

 

Forget the username, but there is a member that modified the TRD box to work with a 4.5" pipe that had a 30* bend in the tube

 

Probably 4Firemandan. Keep in mind he had a maggie so the 30* bend wont be necessary on a Harrop.

 

Did you have to get an ECU with the same base calibration or anything specific had to be matched up, or does any ECU work?

What were the circumstances of yours dying out of curiosity?

 

Hey now… I resemble this remark

 

The reliability of a Tundra is top shelf. That being said Chevy, Dodge, and now Ford can be boosted with simple bolt on parts without disconnecting anything engine wise or rerouting lines. From what I read most people with simple tools can do the modification. Mod even comes with flash tool for Stage2 and below. Pro Charger has a good thing going right now but do not and will not have anything for Toyota/Tundra (per conversation with rep).

I just had to throw that out there.


What I am wondering and have not seen, read, or heard of is Toyota’s original tune for a Tundra with a Magnuson Supercharger. The other ditty I notice is there does not seem to be a set tune for any of the three superchargers. Every tuner does something different (I am talking stock builds here so it can all be equal) Curios??? To see if an original tune can be had for the Tundra using the Magnuson. I think if the original tune could be had it would make life simpler from the start?

Now there are folks building the Tundra engine and trans using other parts from other car manufacturers to make great HP for the Tundra. Doing so calls for special tuning and there sure would not be a blanket tune because of the variables. But,,, for the stock Tundra using the Maggy it seemed Toyota actually had a good thing going but then discontinued that process. Has anyone ever thought about finding an original Maggy Supercharged Tundra and loading a file and putting it out there for all to see/use???? I think a dealer could be had to flash the original tune for a price but I am dang sure they would not want to be held liable for any mishaps? I just think it would be nice for Stage 1 there is this tune, for Stage 2 there would be this tune, it would surely be a lot more simple if that could be done? Remember I am talking stock here just the 5.7 a blower and a tune!

 

Most of us start from the TRD calibration and tune from there as it's not really very well optimized. It's a one size fits all, like a ball cap with the elastic on the back or the adjustable snaps versus a fitted type made to fit your particular head size.

 

I’m talking the original Toyota tundra Maggy tune,, this was not a good tune? And please remember I am talking stock even for the Stage 2 it seems to be pretty much the same,, you know fuel pump, injectors and so on. Most parts are the same just different names, I mean a 750 injector is a 750 injector and a 450 pump is a 450 pump.

I have never heard that one. (not really very well optimized)

 

I have the file and can send it to anyone. When I supercharged my truck I updated the ECU to the TRD version with techstream, so when HP Tuners or someone else pulls my calibration file it is the TRD file. As Wynnded stated though, the TRD file is nothing special. Sure it's better than a completely stock tune, but not by much, which is why most people recommend to get a custom tune.

 

When I got my tune from Xact, he started with a "base" Tundra Magnuson tune from HPT & went from there.

 

It's the difference between a rental suit meant to cover many body types versus a suit tailored to fit you and only you.

 

I bought a random ECU off eBay (with the same part number on it) and Matt Smith and Firemandan helped me get it all setup via Techstream. No clue what I'd have done without their help.

 

good morning everyone and happy fathers day!

random question. is it normal for boosted tundra running harrop to drop boost at high rpm?
WOT i see boost go as high as 5.5 - 6psi.
closer to rev limit at 6.3k, boost goes down to 4psi and sometimes 3.xx psi.
or is my TRD intake just that restrictive?

im at 2k ft altitude and running 91 octane. we dont get 93 here. thank you

im thinking belt slip and tensioner. but havent heard anything about those issues with harrop before. i couls be wrong

 

I have a stage 2 harrop with stock intake. Boost stays at 7-8psi. Sounds like belt slip.

 

did you use the belts that came with harrop? i see a lot of guys having the green colored belts. mines black. not sure what the difference is

 

Green is just an HD version same length etc

 

Yes mine is all the stock harrop stuff, belt and all. My only upgrade was the stage 2 pulley and 650cc injectors.

 

I had belt slip with the stock belt on the smaller pulley.

 

gotcha okay. i have headers and an exhaust so i show a little less boost than normal. probably just boost gauge plumbing leaking at high rpms or something. truck pulls strong no issues

 

what did you do to remedy this?

 

Smaller belt.

I went from "Stock" Magnuson belt - 112.6" Dayco 5081125

To the Gates: Smaller belts - 112.4" both

$45 Continental 4081124 8-Rib, 112.4" Multi-V Belt

Continental 4081124/

$38 Gates K081124HD FleetRunner Micro-V Serpentine Drive Belt

Gates K081124HD (recommended for smaller pulleys

 

any part number for it? i tried to cross reference the belt harrop gives us to see if i have different options.

 

I doubt it’s belt slip personally. I got my 80mm pulley with the Griptec technology but Prospeed said it was not necessary, they don’t slip that easily with the good belt wrap they have. I’m still using the provided belt. No slip and I’ve seen 10psi in the colder months. The green belt has been said to grip better though, I have one sitting in my truck as a spare. I believe Snivilous added the green belt part number for the Harrop to the first post on this thread on what is the basic info post.

I would guess your issue is related to a leaking gauge setup or something along those lines.

 

okay thank you for your input! and yea my buddy said the same thing you did, somewhere along the boost gauge setup

 

What is your gauge setup? Analog or digital?