Parts list for adding OEM trans cooler to 5.7l

IDK, looking like too much condenser and radiator blockage for my liking.

 

Will see. That was part of my concern as well. so far seeing no engine temp increase or ac performance decrease. Figure it’s covering maybe 1/3 of the overall condenser which covers around 7/8 of the radiator.

 

might not be a problem unless you're down south.

 

I'm in SC

so put about 50 miles on it today. No changes in coolant temps/ air con performance. Highs were only in the 80s though.

For reference, radiator core is: 25-9/16" wide x 27-7/8" tall (~713 sq in surface), a/c condenser is 20.89" tall x 26.38" wide (~551 sq in). This cooler has a core surface area of ~21.5" wide x ~7" tall (150.5 sq in), so that's around 21% of the radiator, 27% of a/c condenser. And of course, air flows through the trans cooler and keeps flowing through the condenser and radiator, so it's not a blockage.

As mentioned before, it's an experiment, i'll keep everyone updated on the results.

Goal was to get a cooler easy to mount and would sit where air would be drawn through it by the radiator fan, like the OEM design on later models. Earlier 2nd gens had large coolers off to one side, but the radiator fan did not pull air through it which doesn't help much for low speed driving. I didn't want to bother with the added complexity of adding an electric fan when the stock fan works so well.

 

With inlet and outlet face down, I'm not sure about the air being displaced with trans fluid, especially all the way up to the top. Think you might have an air pocket problem. Plus the oil might all drain back to the pan every time the truck is shut down and sits for a bit which means your fluid level is going to go up and down like crazy. Just my shade tree mechanic opinion.

 

Thanks for the concern. This cooler is a upgrade for GM trucks. They come from the factory mounted in this configuration. Oddly enough, the GM/Ford forums i found while searching cooler options, complained of coolers mounted inlet/outlet side up as having issues with clogging with clutch material/debris and clogging the cooler. Problems we thankfully do not have to deal with

 

I see. However, they are selling their shit based on decades of being one of the big three, not based on awesome engineering or reliability. Plus they might have some sort of check valve so they don't drain down and might have an initial vacuum filling process to eliminate the air pocket problem. Do as you wish, like I said, just my shade tree mechanic opinion here.

 

No reason to over think it too much. Even the stock cooler has lines on the sides, so it can easily drain back/trap air.




Derale and Hayden both have all configurations listed in their instructions.

https://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=D12904

 

I edited the first post with findings/information from my installation so users in the future can search easier.

Short story, no negative effects at all from my installation. Engine cooling/ A/C performance remains the same. Transmission cooling performance is even better than i hoped for. I would happily recommend my exact setup, even if it is a bit overkill. But others are free to choose any cooler/mounting they would like.

 

A typo, should be 59736? 5/8" OD.

 

Can I suggest adding a Magnefine 3/8" inline filter? It catches quite a bit of worn frictions and steel. Easier to change than the pan filter.

 

That’s what I did, cheap insurance.

 

Its definitely not going to hurt but there are magnets in the pan and your transmission will probably be done before the filter in the transmission is and its not hard to change if your pan bolts are not corroded.

 

Transmission has even more magnets, but still, after 20k miles:

 

Finally finished my setup today. Well, sort of... Forgot about inline filter, but that can be retrofitted later.

Cooler is 19 rows Derale 13403.

Custom bracket is made of 0.042" (19 GA??) stainless steel. It is flimsy and flexes a lot, had to weld a couple of stiffeners. I'd better be using a 14 GA carbon steel, but didn't want to paint it, it takes a couple of days to do it properly. Hopefully my crappy flux core welds are not too visible from outside

Work was tedious because of hands size, very little room and dirty plugged threads thanks to my offroad trips. Hint: chase them first. I used a splash guard bolt that is coned and slotted near the end, and can escape dirt.

$685 in parts.

Wasn't able to test it properly: the moment I put the grill back wife said "finally...", jumped in and departed to a local nursery

 

Looks good! Interesting your AC condenser is painted black and mine is just bare silver.

 

Yep, was also curious about that.

 

$120 Tru-Cool Max LPD4739 4739 40000 GVW Low Pressure Drop Transmission Oil Cooler with Thermal Bypass

https://www.amazon.com/Tru-Cool-LPD4739-4739-Pressure-Transmission/dp/B00803CTDA
Just got my tundra. Not sure about the room but I put the above on my hummer and Guage barely comes off bottom for tranny temp ever no mater the weather, did it due to gm internal cooler failure history as precaution but would recommend it for any truck that it fits

 

running that large cooler, highest pan temp I’ve seen so far has been 192f for a few seconds towing up a long 6% grade around here, 96f outside. I maintain 185-190 on the highway usually.
No coolant temp issues at all. Would highly recommend.

 

Okay, this is what I saw regularly with my coolerless Tundra:



Just driving around suburbs in "cold" NorEast. Never towed anything. Unsurprisingly, when I did the first drain&fill at 19k miles the ATF was already brownish.

The other screenshot is screwed up, but with a 19-row cooler torque converter temp was able to climb up to only 200 degrees, while valve body temperature was bouncing around 180. On a bit hotter day, like 4-5 degrees more.



Funny thing aux tranny cooler keeps the engine running cooler, too. Fluid to fluid heat exchanger works both ways.

Now get out and install that damn cooler for good!

 

I copied _none_ (OP) installation and it came out great (thanks!). A 4 foot piece of 1/2 inch aluminum c channel worked well to support attachment at the top and bottom of the cooler. I needed to get the two bolts for the hard lines -- if I recall correctly they're M8 x150, but you'll be able to guess pretty easily from the metric flange bolts at any store with bolt bins. It's quick to run out and test the threads near the oil pan. I did the ATF change twice (week between) to try to get as much as possible. 6 qts was good after emptying the pan (thermostat pinned open) and I got 1/2 qt back out each time doing the level check. Trans temp sits at 186F consistently on the highway now, but I haven't done any heavy towing yet.

 

Thank you so much for doing the leg work and putting the parts list together. I truly appreciate it.

 

I had my grill off today for a headlight upgrade and grabbed some pics of how I mounted with the aluminum c-channel.

 

looks great!

still loving mine. Nearly 90f here today, loaded for camping with the truck full, kayak and paddle board up top, towing a small trailer. 2 hours of highway and backroads driving. Pan temp never went over 195 and i love to watch the pan temp drop when the TC unlocks . No issues with ac performance or coolant temps.

 

Thanks for posting. Still can't believe Toyota calls the 'puck' a cooler. I cannot use as wide a cooler as yours because mine has a large electric fan covering the whole right side so will use a plate cooler that fits on the left. Thanks again.

 

I would monitor trans temps in your Sequoia first. Wife's TRD PRO just does not exhibit the same ATF overheating symptoms like my Tundra did. This electric fan may does the magic for the transmission.

Unless we decide to tow a camper with Sequoia in future, I won't be installing a cooler. It is simply not needed.

 

I would not say the fluid is overheating or the vehicle does not operate properly. But being 'old school' liking most fluid temps to stay under 200 I'm not used to the newest trends of operating significantly higher.

Just plain idling after hours of driving = 185 (tc & pan). Steady highway at 75 = 218 (tc & pan). Stop Go in town having to accelerate just grandma style to 50 repeated over about 8 times = 248 (tc while pan = 228). TC cools back down to low 220s in just seconds so the high temp abuse isn't long but repeated many times it cannot be good. Thoughts?

 

Yours gets very hot…

The highest I can ever gotten was 230ish with a trailer. I have done quite a few trips traveling in the summer for 3 + hours and mine settles in at 205-208 at 70ish. I noticed the temps drop really quick as well.

 

185 is as low as it will go once it's up to temp because once it's back down to 185 the thermostat will close.

 

Greetings, this is my first post on the forum and I wanted to thank _none_ for starting this thread. It was very helpful as I just finished installing a cooler on my 2020 which I purchased a couple of months ago.

Like the OP, I also went with the Derale 13633 and sourced the other OEM parts through various sources. I used some scrap steel to fabricate the mounting brackets for the cooler, which was probably the toughest part of the install. I had to be very careful during mock-up to not damage the cooler or the AC condenser while test fitting the brackets.

I watched the YouTube installation video from Genuine Cooling Systems and it was also extremely helpful. The only thing I would do differently is I should have used OEM Toyota hose clamps. I wanted to save a few bucks and got

$12 Hillman 59736 Spring Action Hose Clamp, 5/8", 20-Pack , Gray

Hillman 59736 clamps on Amazon, but that was a mistake. The Hillman clamps don't open wide enough to slide over the initial ridges on the thermostat and hard lines, and I really struggled with using them. OEM clamps would have been well worth the extra money.

During my post installation 30-minute test drive (it was in the mid-70's outside) the pan temperature never got over 186-degrees, and the torque converter temp bounced around between 185-200 degrees. I'm quite pleased with that.