Metal oil filter cap/assembly

Where can I find a Toyota OEM metal oil filter cap assembly? I'm prepping for my first oil change on my new truck and I can't seem to find a metal one that fits a 2018 Tundra. Thanks for any help!

 

The canister that fits our truck won't be listed to fit a Tundra. Here's the part #.

$51 15620-31060 15643-31050

15620-31060. And link.

 

Don’t you have to take the longer metal tube out of your OEM one and install it since our filters are longer ?

 

Amazon also has it.

 

Yes you do.

 

Just remember when you're putting this metal cap on that you're messing with the bypass spring. The metal housing while it fits it's not meant for our truck and therefore you need to actually break apart the OEM housing to use the tube and spring from it. This is actually a critical part and that spring is set to a specific tension. There's actually no reason to use the metal housing as long as you're not over torquing the plastic cap it will last forever.

 

Perfect. That's the one I was looking at and everywhere said it wouldn't fit. Thanks everyone!

 

You may want to watch this video before you go and break apart your OEM housing.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=G_vl2AYe7Yg&feature=share8

 

Well Joe333x, I think I've been officially convinced to stick with the plastic one. Lol. Thanks for all of your information and help buddy. I appreciate it.

 

No problem, I actually had the metal one sitting in my Amazon cart forever because I wanted one too after reading peoples horror stories but I'm 8 oil changes into my truck and I've never had an issue with it. Every person who has had an issue had their cap put on way too tight. Get the Motivx wrench or whole kit and make things even easier.

 

There's absolutely nothing wrong with using the metal housing, lots of people here use them with absolutely no problems. Characterizing swapping the tube as "breaking apart the housing" is not accurate if you look at the way its constructed. Just my 2c.

 

Its not meant to come apart and if it ever does you should buy a new one. I'm someone who wanted a metal one and then did a lot of research and realized it doesn't make sense to risk playing around with the bypass spring when I can just not overtightened the plastic one and not have a problem. Yes, you're absolutely correct people have not had an issue that have swapped it out but there are a lot more Tundras probably some where around 99% on the road that have the OEM plastic cap and also havent had any issues.

 

Have you seen the way its constructed? Its just a tube a spring and a collar sitting in the bottom of the canister held in place with a few metal tabs. If you consider something so basic in its function never to be taken apart, then we disagree on the definition. Like I said, just my opinion and everyone should do what they're comfortable with.

 

I just put a metal canister on this morning. Very easy to swap out the internals. It took less than 2 minutes. I had to put an 18" cheater on my ratchet to get the plastic one off. It made some strange noises . . .

 

Thats the thing though, it seems like a basic function but that spring and tube serve as a critical part to the oil delivery system, the spring is set to a specific psi to allow oil to by pass. The center tube is not designed to be replaced, yes you can bend it to do it but it but its really all risk no reward. If you watch the video I posted above he goes into how if that tube ever comes out, just buy a new cap, its not worth the risk, if that tube is ever dislodged because of the bending of the tabs its not going to be doing anything. People created a solution to a non existent problem by using the metal cap. They had a vehicle serviced my someone who put the cap on too tight, so they then broke it while trying to get it off, so they buy a metal one and then do the service themselves, if they did the service correctly though the plastic one will not be on too tight and will not break.

 

I have the Motiv-X wrench and drain tube set, the Stahlbus Drain plug and a funnel that threads in. Man, all these things (pricey at first) make life soooo nice when you're changing your oil. Oh....and I have an RCI skid plate coming with an access hatch for the filter.

 

The spring rate is not effectively changed by just swapping it over, and the tube itself is never bent doing a swap. I watched that vid before and I have lots of respect for him as a Master Tech, but nobody's perfect and I think he's wrong about this, especially when he recommends you replace the whole thing if you happen to drop it.

 

Regardless to whether or not its still going to work correctly it still doesn't add a benefit, the only benefit I can see is if you want to over tighten the cap you have a better chance of getting it off without breaking it but when used correctly the plastic one works just fine.

 

So you agree it works properly? Thanks. When you tighten it there's a tab and notch that tells you when its seated and good to go. Have you seen this?

 

I don't think there is way you could possibly test if your bypass is working properly the only way to be 100% is use the OEM cap and leave it alone. My point is whether it works properly or not, it serves no benefit, unless you can explain one?

Yes, well aware of the tab, thats why I still have my plastic cap with no issues.

 

You have failed to mention what benefits this metal housing has provided. I am aware that the spring and tube is what provides the PSI for the bypass and that its what you are messing around bending tabs on in order to put it in the the other housing. Its clear your metal housing makes you happy and you dont mind taking the risk which doesnt bother me, its your truck. I was simply relaying that there is no benefit to doing this which you seem to also agree with unless I missed something.

 

You claimed that this mod was risky and could somehow alter the flow of oil to the engine which is not true if you understand the way the filter and components work. The reason people here use these are because they don't seem to completely lock up under regular use.

 

The mod is a risk because you are taking apart a pressure sensitive tube with a spring that releases oil into the engine in the event that the oil needs to bypass the filter. You are bending the tabs and then bending them back in order to make it stay, thus weakening them as well as making it more likely that the tube comes free from the housing. Millions of Toyotas are on the road with plastic oil housings and dont have any issues, the only time issues arise is when they are over torqued or taken off with the incorrect wrench. When used properly that plastic cap works just as well as the metal one would. I think I've repeated the same information enough times. Basically if you want to do an unnecessary mod to fix a non existent problem then by all means go ahead and put a metal cap on, if you plan to do your maintenance and not over tighten the cap, you will have no problems.

 

I don't remember which spring I used when I did mine. How would you tell them apart?

 

I made sure to keep the parts separate. I did not compare them in fear of mixing them up

 

Please don't tell Joe333x that I'm running a Jowett Performance 6063 aluminum cap with transferred tube and spring. Sssssshhhhhhh. 70,000+ miles. Sssshhhhh.

 

1- I'm not convinced that the bypass function is in the filter housing. The spring is there to keep the drain blocking piece semi-sealed to the bottom of the housing. I do not see how it possibly translates to a bypass. The spring is between the blocking piece and the tube. The tube does have some downard travel, but oil pushes in from the outside inward on the filter media. It makes no sense that oil pressure would be intended to drive the filter down the 1/4 inch to open a bypass. Would the bypass be between the top of the filter and the engine block? That seems sketchy as oil pressure would not apply force on the same axis that the valve actuates. Think sliding patio door vs normal entry door.

2- What evidence is there that the spring rates vary by all the Toyota engines that use this cap?

Also, the metal tabs are not under stress during operation. Really only during a filter media change.

 

Ok, found the bypass. It's integrated into the tube.

See the light coming in from the side when I press down? Fyi it takes quite a bit to get it to move.


I do not believe this spring serves a function that requires a specific spring rate. I believe it's job is to keep the blocking plate on the bottom somewhat sealed to the housing.