'04 Tundra DC Fluid Capacities

Hello all, first post from a younger member. Please be nice and God Bless you.

I meant for my first post to be a showcase of all the work I've done to my '04 4.7L DC rebuild, but instead I need some assistance before it is ready.

If I was working on this in my garage it wouldn't be that big of an issue, but the truck is in a remote spot and I've been travelling to it each time I work on it. The truck is far from anywhere I can pick up the OEM fluids; I'd like to show up to the truck prepared with everything I need. Ironically the owner's manual is with the truck and that is why I'm reaching out!

The main fluids I am concerned about are Coolant and Power Steering Fluid, both of which have been as drained from the system as possible. For reference, I've been suggested to buy 3 gallons of Coolant and 2 quarts of ATF-IV although the recommender seemed rather reluctant to give me those numbers.

1. Coolant:
The truck has a new timing belt and water pump installed(along with other pulleys and other components), but I noticed there was green coolant in there when pulling off old parts. There's probably a little left in there still. How much do I need to fill the system the rest of the way?
Any

2: PS Fluid:
While I was attending to the rotten Power Steering bushings, I noticed one of the PS lines was damaged and I lost a lot of fluid (which I was going to replace anyway) during the repair. Unfortunately, most of it was unmeasurable due to the spill. How much do I need to entirely fill this system too?

On another note, if anyone has any advice to offer for starting up the engine for the first time and safely introducing both fluids simultaneously, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm nervous enough about the timing belt job as it is my first one and avoiding frying either/both of these systems is now another concern.

I fell in love with the First Gen DC so much I wanted to bring two salvage titles back to life. Please help me in my endeavor, and once again, be nice!

Thanks!

 

Link to Owner's Manual

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st...and-maintenance-schedules.91566/#post-2753128

 

1. You need the red stuff for some reason. Apparently even if it can cook the timing belt.

2 the lid of your power steering pump should have a dipstick. And the container is marked.

 

You're going to need to bleed the air from both of these systems, so you won't get all of the fluid in at the time of your initial pour.

 

Why do we need the red coolant? Seriously. The only difference in coolant types is the corrosion inhibitors...i think.

Not being argumentative at all, I really am curious about red coolant. I mean, if you were to tell me the green stuff would cause my water pump to leak, I would be draining it right now.

 

I believe it has to do with being the right mixture of organic/inorganic to keep the fluid special enough to make money.

 

Got 2 gallons of this JIC, but in an emergency, it gets water.

 

Well now i am really scared I sold an older Toyota pickup to a younger gentleman and left my number with him in case he had questions. He texted me at least 3 times about the coolant I was using after I iterated that the thing had never been overheated, stressed or even had a tow receiver.

I really am curious. I've used green forever without issue, that I know of. I've used red forever too.

 

You're not supposed to mix the 2, killed alot of supercharged v6's in the 90's. But they're not that different. Like dexron vs mercron.

 

I guess the only reason I didn't buy it was due to price, I think, if I remember. I damned sure wasn't getting it from the dealership.

 

the red asian might've been an extra dollar at wally world, not enough to really matter.

 

I've *heard* there is a difference with Dexcool from the GM line, about 20 years ago. They say you shouldn't add anything else to a vehicle that requires dexcool. I'd be interested in the chemistry behind it..

 

Yeah dexcool turns into crusty flakes and can clog stuff up if you don't change it on time. Is it necessary, I don't think so. I've flushed it out of an Astro Van once. It was nasty. Just ran regular coolant after that.

I put Toyota pink in everything I have that already has it in it. My shitbox 96 camry has green, runs fine. I really don't know. All I know is don't mix dexcool with anything else and don't mix Toyota red or pink with anything else.

 

I've always blended the "mix all" green with Toyotas. I haven't had a problem, at least not yet. I've done it forever.

I worry about leaks, they are the worst especially after 8 hours of back breaking work. That's why I wonder about the red coolant and blending my cheap stuff.

 

Oh, that's how you end up with @Tundra2 crackie cooling system clusterfuck. Full of flakes and crust. Yeah I'll run green coolant on an empty system but never mix with dexcool or Toyota coolant. There's science behind the organic corrosion inhibitors in Toyota coolant that don't react well with green coolant.

If you're saying you've done it and haven't had issues I'm surprised but if you're saying you've never opened a lid and seems crusty buildup then I guess you're good.

 

You just poked the anti-freeze God.

Suffice it to say there are many google links related to the differences in the rainbow of colors coolant can be. At the end of the day, changing at recommended intervals is something I try to strive for and is most important reason. I'm also one that goes over board in putting only what the Toyota engineers recommend. Coolant debates are no where near oil debates but close. That said, it does somewhat boil down to a personal choice but given the slight price difference and recommended change interval, why not use whats recommended.

Red 30K/3yr
Pink 100K/5yr....from new date. After that 5yr/50K

This car nut knows his shit....

 

https://www.tundras.com/posts/2939222

https://www.tundras.com/posts/2555693