1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Looks like someone's overcompensating for something?

 

I'd argue on Bad Religion. Sorry, guess I'm going against the grain with my take, but I have some beef with albums that came out in the 2000s. Agree on all other fronts. I'd also argue that Fugazi has never put out a bad album, but there's a hell of a lot of diversity in their catalog, and I get not everything can be 13 Songs.

If I fly out there, I'm going to do everything in my power to drive home with that damn thing.
(I'm about half tempted to come drive it home anyway, but bet that's a beast to drive w/o brake booster and I'm assuming no power steering, plus 3onTree )

That monojet carb is actually really easy to rebuild, but you can also just straight-up buy a remain that's pre-setup pretty cheap. There should be instructions online for rebuild, if not YouTube videos, and I'm sure kits are cheap. I also saw a piece recently on these girls, who you may be able to pay if you didn't want to bother but not sure if they do any 1bbl stuff... but seriously, just get a rebuild kit and rebuild it... Hardest part is dialing it in, but there's a simple method to get you 90% of the way there.

(Or slap a used 292 in there!)

And if you find shifting is klutzy for the 3onTree, it's usually b/c the linkage needs some dialing in. Pretty simple to check.

 

I'll be honest, I never was a fan of Bad Religion or most 90's punk

 

General question for the first gen gang.
Are you guys out there kneeling your Tundras? I Joined a first gen Tundras group on Facebook and there are at LEAST three posts per week about people breaking lower ball joints. I learned from this forum early on that it's a JUST DO IT situation. Are you folks OK out there. LOL

 

We use OEM lower ball joints, and we do them before we need them. I can't speak on the parts used for those... people... on shitbook.

 

The fb groups are world class.

 

No PS, yes 3-onna-tree, but someone was boosting something:

Yes one of my first projects was to remove the carb, take it home with me and clean it up. The full shop manual is online for 73 C10s. (By the way—I have to post some snips from that, I can’t imagine a better resource for learning about cars that that manual. It’s like having a confident, Space Age engineer from Apollo 13 with short sleeves and a skinny black tie as your shop teacher.)

Anyway, using that and a bunch of YT videos I took it apart to see if there was any more mud dauber action and really just learn what about how it worked. (Have never rebuilt apart anything bigger than a riding mower carburetor before, but I’ll definitely be getting a kit and DIY’ing this one. It’s basically a really big lawnmower carb.)

 

Just my annual visit to say hi, appreciate you dudes, and hope everyone is kicking ass in life.

Until next year.

 

Towing, no doubt.

I think you'll find that monojet is even easier than mower carbs. Parts are bigger. But that's just my opinion. I hate working on small engine carbs. Honestly, the hardest part with the monojets is getting the damn things dialed in perfectly. Be patient after you get it rebuilt.

There's a specific float those came with that was problematic and you'll want to replace, I'd need to dig for more info, just be aware of it, if your float is brass, you're golden, though your kit may have a replacement (in which case, if the new float isn't brass, and the old is, stick with brass).

One thing I'll warn you about, don't bother even trying to find replacement tubed headers for that 250 or even the 292. Stick with what's stock or go Offy. Oh, and realize something: Slippery slope. You can dump a LOT of money into those old inlines. Look no further than the Stovebolt forums for plenty of examples. You're almost better just buying a crate engine. Or better yet, just swap in a modern GenIII SBC in there like I'd be tempted to do

In all seriousness though, holler at me before you offload that beast.

Some folks just don't want to listen (or just don't know) about always using OEM LBJs.

 

Best way to fix a small engine carburetor problem is buy a new one. Couple of bolts and a fuel line, tada, problem solved.

 

Hell, I think I paid $100-$150 for a complete 292 which had a working carb dialed in already, with recently replaced fuel pump, and HEI. The 250 and 292 aren't exactly sought after by normal people

 

I did it. I have mr2 #3


All my manual swap parts for the auto mr2… this ones lived a rough life, but it’s an aqua marine pearl 91 mr2 turbo.

ex ice racing machine

 

.... I was just about to ask about that.

 

$2000 for this sucker.. runs and drives. factory 91 turbo.. kind of an uncommon color.. just beat. BUT the reason i was ok with spending all that? the interior is intact, the manual parts are all there, AND i got a fucking whole 8ft bed load of parts with it. i scored probably 8k worth of parts for my other cars

 

AND it still has the original window sticker + i am only its 3rd owner

 

mr2 #3? @empty_lord is on his way to creating his own salvage yard.

 

There’s a guy here in Arkansas who’s property I pass on the way to the lake. He has like 60 first and second generation mustangs lined up in various states of disrepair. You can dew eeeeet.

 

Hoping to get door panels back on today after sound deadening, heated mirrors, door latches and window trim. Tempted to do the door speakers too, but not sure how much time I’ll burn trying to get the tweeters done so I suspect I’ll slap the panels on now and remove them when it’s door speaker futzing time.

Before I toss the passenger seat back in,
I should get the amp finished. Gotta decide if I reuse the 20 year old 4 gauge power cable or redo with 2 gauge new stuff.

Also hoping to finally get my yellowbox installed. That is probably #2 right after door panels. Then it’ll be in ok shape to lend to my friend who visits later this month.

 

4 gauge is fine for anything up to 1000w. And if your wire pure o2-free copper (OFC), not copper clad aluminum (CCA), it should be fine as long as you strip back an inch off each end and don't notice any discoloration of the copper to show that oxygen penetrated it. Any quality audio power wire should list what it is on the sheath. Biggest mistake people make isn't on the power side, it's with their grounding choices. If you can't tell if OFC or CCA check the stripped section. CCA usually has a more silvery color at the tips vs. pure copper which looks like a fresh-minted penny, bright bright orange.

Just do the tweeters now. It's not as bad as you think. Budget for 30 mins on each door. Most component kits come with what you need to mount up. Here's how I did mine: https://www.tundras.com/threads/touch-screen-head-unit-whos-got-what.65309/page-3#post-1808193

Basically, my door tweets I'll assume are same as yours, with the hole in the center of the magnet that's threaded (your new ones may and/or should have similar). If so, you just need to unscrew the OEM and screw on the aftermarket, then properly secure the wire.

 

thing about a salvage yard is; they sell things. @empty_lord is what most would consider to be a collector or a hoarder. Who else you know of that carries a 'fleet insurance policy'? But he's also building racecars so..... there is that.
What are you up to now Dan, 14?.....15?

 

Good thoughts. Some specifics since you're engaging in my noodling. Time is tight when I'm not at my desk doing day job stuffs.

I used knu koncept cabling as I had less spare cash 20 years ago. Some of the speaker wire definitely showed oxidation and I removed it. I'll redo all that stuff for sure with some tinned marine grade 12 gauge I have a spool of, easy enough to do those runs with seats out in a RC. I will inspect the power and ground better once I get into it, the blue coating hides some of the visible oxidation and I think even the blue cabling sheath stuff faded with UV exposure in some place. The ground is clear at least so that's easy to see. I'll review what bolt I used, can't remember.

I have alpines in right now and yeah they threaded into the OEM bracket from the back. My plan would be to swap in my audiofrogs from the Tacoma which will eventually get cbi widebands in the a pillars (they are on a yearlong journey to my friend's brother's paint shop). I do not believe they have a rear thread stud, hence I'd have to figure out a mounting solution, possibly just jbwelding the bracket to the back of the grille, not super sure. They have like 4 different mounting options and I have some Tacoma tweeter brackets so I do have quite a few options, just limited space and again limited time.

I do have a nice XD 5 channel 750w amp for it, hopefully it can do bandpass for the door mids but we'll see, haven't taken the cover off.

I will post photos if I get to dive in. Thanks for the link too, reviewing now.

 

Oh, and WTF with you guys doing crossovers in the doors? I always burn up kick panel space for them, though I have never had a set properly sealed, they are always competition spec stuff which is all about the presentation and not waterproofing. Anyway, with a 5 channel amp and a RC I'm hoping I get to ditch those f'ers, though I'll have to figure out my cutoffs.

 

15. 4 being sold. 2 tacos a Camry and a corolla

 

I put my crossovers in my doors because it was easier. They only run the door speakers so why not? I have components. 6" round and 1" tweets.

 

Couple who 'collect' in IL are back to the state supreme court. The town came knocking, so they put up a really big fence around the property and promised not to add more stuff. Town used a drone to look over the fence to see if the collection was growing. It was. So far the town is winning in court.

Remember - when you get to the point of privacy fencing for the collection - add some sun shade panels overhead to keep ahead of the drones & google earth.

 

With all the sound deadening experts on here...

Is there a reasonable way to sound proof a room in a house without making the house not-resellable?

Between the hoards of NYC pandemic escapees & the incredible housing inflation - my city neighborhood has changed a lot. People getting roommates, multigeneration families, siblings & spouses & multitude of kids sharing 1 family homes.... It's gotten very loud & the parties go on to all hours.

I've got great hearing which is bad in this situation. Gotta figure a way to have a quiet bedroom, still too cold to be running a fan for white noise.

 

Who ordered the 4R, diesel, convertible? It's ready & waiting in Zimbabwe.

 

White noise machine.