Suspension stiff and chassis vibrates after hitting bump

Putting E load range tires on a half ton highway use truck to me isn't necessary. I used XL Nittos on my past F150 and these were more than enough and horrible all around. Tried Falken wild peaks at3 and these were so much better as the compound was softer. Traction all around was so much better.
I cannot imagine running E load range on these half tons.
Just a note: cannot go by the max psi on the side wall. Factory Yokohama's on my 23 Plat are max 51psi 2469lbs.

 

I copied this from Falken tires:

Should I put LT tires on my truck? Do I need Load Range E? 265/70R17 or LT265/70R17? 265/75R16 or LT265/75R16? P285/70R17 or LT285/70R17 LRE?
Good questions. If you have a ¾-ton truck like the RAM 2500 or Ford F-250, go with LT Load Range E (LRE) tires to ensure you’re matching or exceeding the OE tires’ Load Index. If you have a half-ton truck (F-150, RAM 1500), mid-size pickup (Tacoma, Colorado), or an SUV (4Runner, Jeep Cherokee), avoid Load Range E. Instead, stick with Load Range C or avoid LT sizes altogether. Putting LRE tires on these applications is generally overkill, often resulting in a decrease in power, fuel economy, and overall vehicle longevity. Your tires should enhance the capability of your truck, not detract from it. Whichever way you go, please consult a trusted tire installer to discuss the tradeoffs between LRE sizes (towing, off-road durability) and LRC / non-LT sizes (MPG, tread life). With that said, we’re confident that every A/T3W is built to perform both on and off-road. Every size has been rigorously tested for off-road durability, and all sizes come with a 55,000-mile Tread Life Warranty. Light Truck (LT) = Built for trucks. Includes LRC, LRD, LRE, and LRF-rated tires. Load Range C (LRC) = Equivalent to 6-ply rated. Not ideal for heavy duty pickups that tow and haul. Load Range E (LRE) = Today’s equivalent to 10-ply rated. Great for heavy duty towing and hauling.

 

To get the size I wanted in the Toyo AT3, the LT 10 ply tire seemed to be my only choice.

I have my original 18” TRD OR wheels and could look at second set with a 6 ply tire. Maybe this would be my summer set for highway and towing use??

 

what size did you want? 35 I would guess, if so ya load e is damn near all of them

I have p rated coopers but they are “only” 33” but only weigh a few more lbs than stock

I had load e on my last tundra and had to keep at least 43 ish or they wouldn’t wear right

 

Perhaps OP is bottoming out the rears and not realizing it?

 

Perhaps swapping out the rear shocks and springs with the Red shocks from a TRD OR. With all the people doing lifts, those are readily available all over.

I have those and find them firm but not too stiff.

My tires are 295/60/r20 and they do add tk the stiffness of mine.

I hit a speed bump today at full speed (not paying attention). I was surprised at how smooth it went over the bump with no oscillations. I was waiting for something to bang but it was great.

 

So just to elaborate a bit further. I started reading up on this subject. It’s basically the equivalent of under inflating your stock tires, running those tires at 15 psi, it adds additional weight on the sidewall.

Here is a small read covering that subject.
Thank you gents for providing info in regards to that subject.

https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/...at-tire-pressure-are-you-runngin.78586/page-4

Here’s a nifty air pressure calculator when upgrading to a larger size or a different load rating tire.

https://tirepressure.com/tire-pressure-calculator

 

I believe this reviewer's statement to be true for my Tundra even though we have a different suspension. I have a 2022 1794 Edition with the air suspension. Initially the suspension was very stiff so my dealer performed the service adjustment described in this and other threads. They also did a 4 wheel alignment, which helped removed the chatter I had in my steering wheel. Finally I reduced the pressure in my tires to 35 pounds, which helped my ride.

There is a vibration/chatter in my seat when going over small bumps, which is typical on many highways and back roads. It's as though the air suspension doesn't sense these bumps or that the chassis is too stiff. It's doggone annoying. I've had it to the dealership twice; at Toyota's direction all they did was confirm that the service adjustment was done correctly. I noted that one of the posts above, a reviewer shared similar thoughts on his Tundra without air suspension.

Here's what i've tried. I put 80 pounds of salt on each side of the rear of my truck bed. The ride improved smartly. I'd guess it removed 90% of the vibration. What prompted me to try this was having noticed how different the truck handled and responded to bumps when loaded with 2 cubic yards of mulch. This weight helps in each of the suspension modes - I primarily use "normal" and "sport". I find that the sport mode does a much better job on rough roads, especially at speed, at removing the vibration chatter.

I solicit your insights! If I'm the only one experiencing this i'd welcome insights on other adjustments I could consider. If you've felt what I described above, you may wish to consider my attempted remedy.

I'm going to try see if the dealer will prompt Toyota to do something to address this. I'd think they could adjust the shocks or make other modifications to add weight (if that is truly a fix) so I get the use of my full truck bed back.

This is my 4th Tundra; I really like the brand. I'm hoping something can be done!

 

do you have the TRD off road model or have you changed to load e tires?

you have air suspension, but did you get the advanced package with AVS?

if you like the best possible ride, AVS trucks are the best riding tundras hands down, comfort mode is down right smooth

 

I have the AVS system. The conditions I share above are applicable in each mode. I have the OEM tires on the truck too.

 

Have you owned a truck before?

 

Last weekend I put my Westcott spacers in and after I got it all together, I took it for spin to get some gas and found it to be very smooth! Nothing else changed other than the spacers. After hearing about how the ride is too stiff after Westcott, I was expecting the ride to be firmer but I was surprised that it is soft! Maybe that’s the answer, Westcott in the rear for the win!

 

I have run E-rated tires for years and I have never had them inflated more than 40psi and I have never had any problems, I do not have a 3rd gen but that should not matter.

 

Has anyone been successful in improving the rear suspension chattering/shuddering over medium sized bumps or imperfections in the road? Curious if upgraded shocks with slower rebound would help.

 

I have a 23 SR5 Tundra having the same vibrations bouncy on even the smoothest roads the small crack I did order some icon try rate Springs but I have yet to install them because of Toyota's going to be looking at it I've only got a thousand miles on the truck and I can't even ride in the thing it makes me sick

 

this is the icon try rate spring anybody use one of these yet

 

Currently the truck SR5 has single rate Springs

 

Then you don't need E load tires.

 

I'm bringing out the defibulator to bring this thread back to life! CLEAR!
Iubasketball: did the springs help the "chattering/shuddering" issue?