Rear passenger Axle will not go into the differential, Help!

Title says most of it: I have a 2001 Tundra Limited TRD 4x4.
My rear axle seals blew out (clogged breather) so I’m replacing them and brakes etc.
Got the axles out easy and took them to a local Toyota shop to have new axle bearings pressed on. Put the new seals in. Got the axles back from the shop and got the drivers side in without a problem... but the passenger side refuses to go into the diff.
It will go just enough to catch and spin the opposite side but it absolutely will not go in the last inch and a half or so. I’ve tried wiggling it and spinning it and with the other side installed and not installed and nothing has worked. There is no remove-able rear diff cover so we’d have to pull the whole thing to get a better look and want to avoid that if possible. Any advice???

upon further inspection there is damage to the end of the axle.. however the drivers side axle won't go in all the way either and the splines still look good, I carefully filed them just barely to remove a tiny bit of mushrooming (could only feel it with finger nail, barely see it) but that didn't help.

I’m very new to working on vehicles, my buddy who’s helping me do it all is more experienced than me and did this job on his 2wd 99 4Runner (no lsd) with no real hiccups so this is messing with our heads. I need it out of his driveway as soon as possible!

 

After the splines get far enough to just engage, does it feel like you are then hitting a hard stop or does it feel like it just gets too tight?

can you get a decent view looking all the way through the tube with both axles out? You may be able to use a camera to get a shot and zoom in to see if anything it out of sorts.

seems like a long shot that there is a spline problem. But an inch and a half also sounds like more than a loose outer seal would cause.

got any pictures of the tube end?

once the splines are started it should just pretty much go as you already know. Both axles work on one side and not the other? Then rule out the axle shafts.

 

I will check again in the morning but I think I remember it felt like hitting a hard stop, I can get a decent view so I'll also check with a better quality camera and light to see what I can see. I will update with pictures tomorrow as well as measuring the amount it has left to go in. The ABS ring was 2/3 inside the axle housing I think that's as deep as it'd go? I will also check and see if both axles work properly on drivers side but I know the drivers side doesn't work on the passenger side while it does work on its proper side, is there any differences in the splines?

 

Sometimes you have to grab the top and bottom of the axle assembly and tip the spline end 'up' to align it with the carrier hole. Then wiggle it in.

If you need more to grip and the drum is off, slide it on backwards and run a couple nuts on.

 

sweet ok I'll try that tilt wiggling method

 

You have to lube it up before you put it in. I know, I know. Sounds like I'm being perverted but only kinda. Mine wouldn't go in so I took it out and coated it in diff juice and it popped right in. Also, if you take a peek down the axle tube, you can see right where it needs to go.

 

I haven't messed with the rear axle of my AC but I do have a story about rear axles that may help.

You mentioned the breather tube being clogged.

On my ZJ Grand Cherokee's, the breather tube nut/bolt passes through the brake distribution block and holds it to the axle. I was rebuilding the whole axle and had all the brake lines off but I screwed in the breather tube into the hole most of the way. When I was reassembling the axle, the driver side axle shaft would not go in! I couldn't figure it out. I tried and tried. I just happen to look down the axle tube and what do you know...that breather tube bolt was way inside of the axle tube. It threaded in way further without that brake distribution block and wouldn't let the axle go in straight....

So, moral of the story..look down the axle tube into the pumpkin before trying to put the axle shaft back in...might save you a headache.

 

I believe there is a seal right before the splines go into the carrier. You may have knocked it out of place and is now blocking the hole into the carrier.

Gonna have to take out the 3rd member to look.

 

Denise Lasalle is smiling on you, breau. (0m18s)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmTNYD0nWN0#t=0m18s​

 

That oil seal is out at the end of the axle tube, just inboard of the wheel bearing.

 

There are 2 seals, inner and outer. The outer is the one he just replaced.

 

@landphil is correct.

Here's some pictures from my truck. Inner axle seal (S seal) that pops into the axle assembly is 90310-50006. On your diagram it's the left seal on part #5.




Outer axle seal (K seal) that goes onto the axle shaft is 90313-54001. On your diagram it's the right seal on part #5.

 

I'd take out the third member and get a good look. You already have so much apart, why not give it a good once over just for the peace of mind if nothing else. Once out, you can do a test fit before going back in. Might actually be faster in the end!

 

Ok, I've been calling it a seal but it's actually a baffle. My bad
But check out 4:52 on this video, which is what I was talking about.

EDIT: yeah yeah 2nd/turd gen but same thing though

https://youtu.be/sq5pZuEm7mI

 

Gotcha. Just wanted to clear up any confusion from your descriptions/ diagrams. Toyota calls the baffle a DEFLECTOR, REAR AXLE HOUSING OIL. p/n 42108-34010 for my truck.

Still worth a check, but I'd take a good look down the tube and try the lube and wiggle before pulling the diff.

 

Yeah, definitely pulling the 3rd member is last resort cuz that fucker is heavy!

 

The axle shafts are the same length on both sides on these trucks, right? It’s been a while, I can’t remember for sure. If not, maybe the shop pressed the left shaft into the right bearing / housing / backing plate…

 

Same length.

 

Ok we're back at it now, the truck is in park and the brakes are off so I cannot shift it, will that be preventing it from going back in? is there a way to shift into neutral without using brakes?

 

No.

You can just twist the axle to line up the splines or rotate the backing plate to line up the studs with the axle flange.

 

wiggling and spinning the axle to align the spines has been fruitless and looking down the housing I cannot see any obstructions

 

Should I disconnect the driveshaft so I can spin/wiggle the input shaft while trying to insert the axle?

 

Maybe the opening is not level, for example it might be pointing slightly down, which prevents the shaft from going in straight. Thinking loosening up the 3rd member to give you extra wiggle room may help

 

Hmmm that sounds like it could help

 

I'm really appreciating the help this community has been providing, makes it a lot easier to feel like I can get this done as a noob

 

I don't see anything in the pics that would prevent install. But maybe there's a bit of spline that needs to be filed?

Does it feel like the splines make it past the baffle and you can feel them against the inner splines when twisting the axle trying to engage them? Like there skipping across each other.

If yes you can try and smack it in with a dead blow.

 

I can feel it hit the splines and it does spin the opposite side when pushed in all the way but my buddy checked it with a paint pen and only the very very end of the splines is touching

 

Hit the leading edges of the splines with a triangular file, clean any filings completely, lube it and try again, I think gravity is pulling it down and your going to have to fight that as it goes in. You might fabricate a sort of handle or lever that will attach to the lugs to give you added leverage to help raise it up with an equal and opposite force. Good luck!

 

I love the handle idea I'll see what I can do