Parts list for adding OEM trans cooler to 5.7l

Edited in 6/27/23:

Purpose of this thread is to put together a list of parts required to add an air-to-oil transmission cooler for a 2019-2021 model Tundra, which come from the factory with only the water to oil warmer/cooler which come on all 2nd/2.5nd gen trucks.

To put this out there, there is a company selling complete, bolt on kits. They look very nice and come with everything you need including the extra transmission fluid to top off with. Feel free to purchase from them if you do not want to deal with sourcing your own parts.

Here are OEM the parts i purchased:

• 32970-34030 Thermostat (replaces a spacer on our trucks) $140.41 Ebay.
  
• 32907-0C020 Hard pipes which go under motor $89.95 Ebay
  
• 32941-0C030 Pre formed rubber hose to go from thermostat to hard piping 1 $45.53 Spark Parts
  
• 32942-0C040 Pre formed rubber hose to go from thermostat to hard piping 2 $39.41 Spark Parts
  • $80 00289-ATFWS Automatic Transmission Fluid, 192 Ounces, 6 Pack
    00289-ATFWS WS ATF. I purchased 6 qts so i could do a drain/fill at the same time. $12.02 ea Spark Parts

Non-OEM Parts Purchased:

• Transmission cooler (details listed below) $73.50 Amazon
• Hillman 49736 Spring Hose Clamps $9 Amazon
• $34 Derale 13016 Transmission/Engine Oil Hose , Black
  Derale 13016 Transmission/Rubber hose (5/8" OD i believe), 5' long $8.72 ea Amazon

Total Spend: $440ish. This includes all the parts listed above, only including 2 qts of transmission fluid. Only items not included are a piece of aluminum and spacer used in mounting the cooler itself, had these laying around the garage.

Choosing a transmission cooler is the most difficult aspect of doing this DIY version. What size do you want? How to you want to mount it? etc.

My goals with the cooler:

• Relatively easy to mount
• I wanted it mounted in front of the radiator/ condenser so the fan would pull air through the cooler.
• Cooler to be large enough to install it and forget it. No need to pin the thermostat when towing, etc. One of the best things about having the thermostat is you can run a large cooler and the thermostat can self regulate.

Cooler i chose:

• I went with a Derale 13633, 13 row 9500 series cooler. I settled on this one due to the width and height, hoping it would be easy to mount using existing holes, which it did.
• This is an aftermarket upgrade cooler for GM trucks. Rated at 33000 BTU, it's overkill for the job. Core dimensions are: 22.75" wide x 7.5" tall x 1.25" thick. Shes big. I mention elsewhere in a post, but this cooler covers around 21% of the radiator.

Performance with the cooler mounted:

• Fantastic. Just what i wanted. As we all know, when not running a cooler we typically see temps in the 220s F in the pan. Temps are very quick to heat up and very slow to cool down.
  With the cooler installed, the highest pan temp i've seen is 190F. Outside temps have been into the mid 90s. Cruising on back roads, temps settle around 180F. Working the truck up a mountain last week, tight switch backs, slow speeds, pan temp would climb to around 186F then drop to 177F, continually repeating the cycle as the thermostat works.
• I've only towed my small utility trailer so far, with the above temps achieved. I'll tow more this coming weekend, but i expect similar results. I sold my 5000+ lb TT months ago, but i plan to have another in the next few years which is what i wanted this setup ready for.
• There were concerns about a/c performance or engine cooling performance issues with the larger cooler. No issues have been found. I run a scan gauge II 100% of the time, showing both trans temps, coolant temp and air intake temp. Trans temps are noticeably cooler (as hoped and expected), coolant temp/ air intake temps haven't changed. A/C works just fine as normal.

Highly recommend if you are DIY person. Use whatever cooler and mounting you want, i mostly wanted to make searching for the part numbers required easier after i had hard time searching/verifying.

Cooler installed:


Cooler dimensions:

 

Just order a kit from Genuine Cooling Systems. Comes with all toyota OEM Lines and everything you need to do the job. Did one on my 2020 last year and its been great!!!

https://genuinecoolingsystems.com/

 

I appreciate that... but they are asking $1200-1300 for a kit. Nice kit i'm sure, but the OEM parts listed are a little over $300. I don't mind making a bracket. Looking like i'd be all in for around $500ish if i can actually find confirmation of the part numbers.

 

Well just noticed that prices really sky rocketed..... I ordered my kit from them at the beginning of last year and it was $809.........

 

This is for 4.6L, but I think most of everything applies to 5.7. I'll go that same route later in summer ($1200, holy sh*t!...)

https://www.tundras.com/threads/add...4-6l-tundra-for-under-400.77739/#post-1971996

 

I installed the 15-row kit a couple months ago. Well worth the asking price. If you price the parts, including the Setrab Cooler, your probably around $700+. GCS includes a custom bracket, instructions and all the parts needed, including the ATF WS Fluid. It fits up nicely and looks like a factory installation.

 

For those with angle grinder and welder, bracket fabrication using scrap metal laying around drops the price quite a bit.

Also anything powder coated means rust after just one winter in New England...

 

Ordered a HD Hayden plate cooler, U shaped fittings, grommets, fuel line hose, and clamps from Amazon. Just get a roll of hose and the rear differential fitting, then you can get the rear diff vent relocated too.

 

The value with the kit is in the time savings. It comes with everything, including the WS ATF fluid you need. You just do one order and it pretty much a guaranteed fitup, there is no guess work.

GCS is a business, a business makes profit, so of course you can build a kit yourself for cheaper. I didn't want to screw around with all the details, just wanted to install and be done.

 

thank you!!

and I totally get that. I’m just looking to put out there a complete list of parts required (similar to the 4.6l thread) so people can choose. there is no way to tell how good of a deal it is without the details.
All of my google searches led to posts but no conclusive parts list and the online diagrams are a bit wishy washy.

I’ll buy the parts and post a full list when complete for the DIY crew

 

Don't forget your going to need a trans temp monitor of some sorts when you top the fluid off and to check the level at the proper temperature!

 

thanks. I’ve been using a scan gauge and have already done a trans fluid drain and fill. Wanted to make sure I could compare before and after performance. Plenty of fluid on hand to do another drain and fill when I add the cooler.

 

Fwiw, something to think about or plan for before the install... additional electric fan for cooling while towing at low speeds over long distance. A must have for my truck and usage. Just a simple in cab on off switch to trigger the fan relay.

 

$1200 the hell with that…..Go with trans cooler thats on land cruiser, ask the parts dept at your local toyota that you want to add land cruiser trans cooler to your tundra and they’ll give you all part numbers needed. It’s the same 5.7L engine as tundra and has toyota oem bracket that it uses

No need for this aftermarket bs and custom bracket

 

It still needs hoses/pipes and thermostat, which is about $300.

 

Can you post of a pic of your setup?

I was debating this. Initially i'm planning to add a large cooler tight in front of the condenser/ radiator with the hopes that the fan will pull air in through it at low speeds. I've used this approach on other vehicles in the past with good success.
The LC80 i had years ago, the factory cooler was a few inches from the condenser so it didn't seem to get great airflow at slow speeds.

Might start with plan 1 and relocate/add fan if it isn't sufficient.

 

I haven't installed the fan yet, it's a Morimoto branded unit I purchased from Amazon. I also have a billet grill to install into the grill surround at the same time and life is just in the way right now. Probably won't get around to it until late summer. Just been buying everything I want ahead in case things go sideways in this crazy world. Have enough truck mods to keep busy for a year or so without having to deal with any shortages for anything! Now just have to keep the tornados away from the truck and parts, lol!
Edit: Mishimoto brand fan

 

Checked prices at Sparks and Amazon. Here what I'd have to pay:

Code:

32941-0c030  $61.57
32907-0c020 $133.46
32942-0c040  $53.30
32970-34030 $271.03
setrab      $155.99
            -------
            $675.35

Plus taxes, shipping, bracket manufacturing and hardware. $799 kit does not look bad. Unfortunately, it is out of stock.

 

Ouch



Discontinued.

 

I was surprised, too, because the parts have to be kept in stock for 10 or so years after the vehicle has been discontinued.

 

Same for MY19 Tundra and MY22 Sequoia.

 

The Setrab cooler also needs the adapter fittings.

 

I may go with a cheaper Hayden cooler. Have/had them in three my other vehicles, no questions.

 

I had to order a partial kit because the oil cooler hard line was out of stock. Search eBay every week and the part will eventually pop up. I checked for about 2 weeks and eventually found a new OEM one.

 

Glad I read this, I almost thought about buying that $1,200 kit lol.

 

Issue is the $799 kit is if you have an '18 or older truck and are just adding an additional trans cooler. It does not come with the thermostat, hard lines, etc.

 

Ouch, it definitely makes sense to DIY. Mine are 2019 and 2022 (Sequoia). Don't need the biggest cooler possible, I don't tow and don't go offroad as often as I would love to. Just cap that excessive temperature in summer. Fabricating a custom bracket is not a problem, I actually like metal works.

 

I can agree with both sides here. I went with a Genuine cooling systems kit before the price increase, which made it more worthwhile. It was a very well thought out kit with everything included and no hassles whatsoever. If I were to do it over, I'm not sure if I would go the same route, simply due to the cost versus DIY. I was also fortunate to get one of the last MHX-514 kits he sold, which has better cooling power than the setrab.

 

Wow! I didn't realize how much cheaper this is to DIY. I've been considering the kit, but even at the previous cheaper prices it was a pricey to swallow. I've got a welder and grinder, so I might just have to jump on the DIY route.