What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Over the weekend I installed a Westcott Designs lift and today got some Cooper AT3 Discoverers 195/70 and had front end alignment done. I removed mud flaps just incase they were going to rub but I believe I’ll be able to put them back on. It’s nice having a few more inches in height. I installed lift kit myself. Wasn’t too bad after I figured it out. I still have skid plate and cat shields off. I think I’ll spray them with Raptor bed spray before I put them back on.

 

Well played!lol perfect setup.

 

Installed the P.I. hitch lock.

 

It did. But also changed tire brands at the same time and I carry a lot in the back constantly. Rides good on flat roads. On the Tacoma had kings installed and of course I’m missing those. Not a fair comparison but if I had more money yes please. The uneven roads with dips and bumps aren’t great but I’m hoping it settles in after a few hundred miles. Also wondering whether changing to 17 wheels with a couples sizes up in tires may help soften it up by absorbing more from the road. I’m on the stock 18s with stock tire size.

 

Stock: 275/65/18
Wish I had gone 275/70/17 or maybe one more size up.

 

28k oil change
Mobil 1 0W-20
My very first Fumoto installed

I'm looking forward to the next one when I can just run a tube to the drain pan instead of guessing where it's gonna splatter.

 

I use a piece of rubber tubing to drain from the valve to pan. I also recommend two drain pans so you can drain from the sump and filter at the same time. While these drain, rotate your tires. Have you gotten the MotivX kit with the oil filter housing socket, drain tube and oil fill funnel? Those all make the change a much more enjoyable process.

 

Yes, though I had to pry the housing wrench off the housing with a screwdriver since it was stuck.
Had the oil fill funnel already since the last truck was a 2.5 gen taco.

Overall not a bad process. Didn't need to remove the SR5 "skid plate" (term used loosely here) to get to the filter, which was a plus.

 

45k oil change, Kirkland 0w-20, OEM filter.
Rotated tires (rearward cross).

 

I wire brushed the entire underside of my 17 two days ago and did some sloppy test sprays of Rust Kutter (highly rated citric and phosphoric acid rust reformer). Truck wasn’t on ramps or lift and that stuff hurts to have drip on ya lol. I like the initial results so here is my plan going forward, please lemme know if I’m on the right track-

• I’m going to finish the job and do about two more coats of rust kutter, making sure all visible rust is reformed.

• After that stuff fully dries/converts I’m going to do a full application of POR15.

• before winter I will apply fluid film or PB blaster surface shield (every winter)

for comparison sake I only sprayed the right side of the diff. I didn’t have much time and only did about 1 min of spraying with a patchy inconsistent application, anywhere that is white used to be rust - you are to rough up the white and apply more to fully convert with rust kutter

 

Switch Pros 9100 with SDHQ center console mount. Got rid of a bunch of relays and wiring under the hood; much cleaner looking. Kept two switches open for possible front and rear locker options. The off-road flash and strobe functionality, as well as the master switch function, are neat bonuses.





https://youtube.com/shorts/04lObnNiZ44?feature=share

 

Nice!

 

Sounds like a good plan.
I tried a can of the PB Blaster Surface Shield.....I'll not spend the money on another can. It was a PITB to get it to keep spraying. It sprayed like a can of .99 cent spray paint!

 

Hit a milestone... original warranty out of mileage... glad I have the extended... btw mpg is actually closer to 12.5 with 5.29 grears and 37s

 

Stealership oil change and tire rotation. They threw in a "free" wash...

While it was there, I asked if they'd pull off the tow hooks for me so I could paint them...they said sure for $165...?!? Hard pass...

 

I mean - that only translates to like $3,000/hr.

 

I know, I'm clearly in the wrong line of work!

 

hahhahha

 

Tell the spouse what they wanted to charge you, with added acrimony; and then explain why it's important for you to save money by getting your own tools:
DEWALT XR 1/2-in 20-volt Max-Amp Variable Speed Brushless Cordless Hammer Drill (2-Batteries Included) in the Hammer Drills department at Lowes.com

 

They gave you a "free" wash which translates to "you are probably missing a skid plate bolt or two now".

 

Nah, he needs the 1/2" impact for the extra ugga duggas (will need it to get the oil filter housing off next time anyway)

Red: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...One-5-0-Ah-Battery-and-Bag-2767-21B/312012941
Yellow: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT/5002909283
Blue: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-...s-Impact-Wrench-1-Battery-Included/5013201381

Whichever battery ecosystem you already have...

 

haha yeah…wrong tool for the job though

Unnecessary teal option: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...-w-Friction-Ring-Anvil-2-5Ah-GWT01D/316617986

 

Hope enough air is getting to your rad.

 

Haha. I lived this also. The local stealership did not seem shocked or even apologetic. Have not been back.

 

It's not an impact driver, but it definitely gets the job done. And it's a multi-tasker...

 

Yep, monitor the temps, all good.

 

Busy 3 wks. So I finally got a driver side grab handle. The install was a breeze. Did what another member did using his idea and called several dealers. What do you know a dealer close by ordered one for me and had it in a week. I also got the TRD dual exhaust painted and installed that as well along with the ESP storage. You know, i never know what size to upload these pics as so it can be seen good enough.

 

Only one uni-tasker allowed, and it serves the same purpose in the garage as the kitchen.