Catch can

Site approved catch can brands and place to buy ?

 

Dunno about “site approved” but you can start here and then options and prices go up from there.
https://www.jlosc.com/JL-3-0-oil-se...ta-tundra-5-7l-2008-2021-toyota-sequoia-5-7l/
My only complaint is that it can be a little tricky getting a good grip on the canister to empty it, but mine is also awkwardly positioned near my winch power controller.

Radium is premium brand, mounts on the passenger side of I recall. There’s a few others, but the names are escaping me.

 

I have a J&L. Highly recommend.

 

And this is the brand above ?

 

Hmm a hot link.


thanks

 

Yes it is.

 

Radium Engineering used here, but I'd recommend just their single PCV can. The crankcase can has been bone dry since installed and not really needed on our trucks.

 

Another vote for j&l catch can. Simple. Decent price. Works.

 

Team RXP here, just a single can no need to take canister off as there is a drain valve on the bottom with hose, pretty convenient but it is usually dry

 

I too am pleased with my J&L.

 

JLT, easy install, affordable, effective. No regrets!

 

Thank you all for the input. Truck will likely be sc’d one day moderate offroad use generic truck stuff.

 

Just jumping in and saying thank you. I just ordered a j&l

 

I’ve had both JL and radium can’t go wrong with either.

 

And I got your JL after you went to the Radium. Thank you again good sir.

 

Yessir! My pleasure

 

Those with catch cans, have you ever done a test to see how much oil is caught between oil weights? I'm curious if 0w20 vs 5w30 makes a difference.

 

J&l here, running 0w20 and get about 3/4 canister between oil changes.

 

Benefits or necessity for N/A trucks? Seems like overkill.

 

Keeping oil crap out of the upper intake is never a bad thing. I’ve taken the throttle body off and looked into the manifold vs not having one and having one and the difference is apparent how much crap isn’t there. But what do I know

 

I have DI so it's definitely a must and as mentioned above keeping as much oil crap from reaching the intake is a plus anyways.

 

I’ll let you know. I’ve caught a lot in my single Radium running 0w20. (I consider full at 3000 miles alot). Just switched to 5w30 and I’m hoping to see a decrease. I’ll reply back here in a bit if I remember.

 

Oil vapor in the intake air also effectively lowers the octane rating of the fuel in the cylinder. As for 0w20 vs 5w30 I can’t say I’ve done any testing such as measuring out how much it caught at different mileage but I do think I generally have stopped seeing as much in the can with the 5w30.

 

Ditto.

I have smidge of smeg, in the can, after 8000 miles...5w-30

mostly hwy miles.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDx09voTlbw
What do you guys think of this video about oil catch cans?

 

Thanks! A big theory with 0w20 is that because it's so thin and vaporizes so quickly that after time of getting burned vapors into the engine it gets onto to the rings and ends up causing more oil consumption over time. I had a Subaru that ended up burning a quart every thousand miles and I only ran 0w20. Now I will never put anything under 5w30 in a vehicle.

That's awesome info thanks!

Two for two with my theory on 0w20 being a cause of oil consumption. Thanks!

 

I’d say read the comments section of the video and you will see at least 3 solid reasons the video is a poor representation.

 

Not much at all.

 

My very uneducated opinion:

The 5.7 has a very decent oil vapor recovery system built in under the intake manifold.

I run a radium catch can to keep whatever amount of oil vapor that gets past the factory system....to keep it off/out of my S/C.

Gentlemen don't have grimy rotors.

 

Team RXP too.
It is my understanding that RXP was the original and still is the best. 100% handmade canisters with an "old school" hardcore racing history. Everyone else is a knock off. A cheap can is not even worth doing and you really only need it on a SC'd motor. There's really no positive pressure on NA motors to push back.