WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO YOUR 3RD GEN TUNDRA TODAY?

Oil change (at 5000 interval) + Fumoto valve install. Next time I'll be able to neatly drain the oil directly into my 2 gallon waste oil container (repurposed gas can) instead of the usual messy drain pan. I used the long nipple version since we have plenty of ground clearance and it is protected by the TRD skid plate. Long nipple will make it easy to connect a drain hose.

F133N: Long Nipple Oil Drain Valve With M12-1.25 (fumotousa.com)

 

@raylo Do you have any pics of how this looks with the skid plate clearance? and the oil drain path? This would make oil changes easier!

 

Sorry, I didn't take any photos. I should have, dammit. There is plenty of skid plate clearance but I don't believe you can operate the Fumoto w/o removing the skid, if that is what you are thinking. And the skid needs to come off for the filter anyway. I suppose you could make 2 separate doors in the skid somehow. I use a Milwaukee M12 3/8 ratchet on the skid bolts to include the security bolts shared by the Talons shield and I can have it off in about 2 minutes. I am just looking forward to not having oil splashing down into a nasty drain pan... and then having to transfer it from the drain pan to my disposal containers.

 

I have a RCI front plate with the little access cover for the drain bolt/Fumoto so it would be easy to pop it off. I haven't checked the location of the filter to see where it would drip but I guess the skid plate would need to come off for that.

 

Yeah, having that door almost doesn't make any sense because the skid needs to come off to get the filter which is right up front in the center. I also see that the RCI skid doesn't have those notched holes for the front bolts like the TRD skid that allow you to only partially loosen the front bolts, then remove the other 4 and slide the skid off the front ones. Then when you go to reinstall it you slide the skid onto the front bolts and then it hangs there supported while you start the other bolts.

Edit... looking at that plate it might actually be for the filter but I can't tell without seeing one of these in person. So, if you can get the filter and then somehow reach the Fumoto (leave the drain hose on it), you'd be golden.

 

That front hatch/cover is for the oil filter. The RCI skid doesn’t have a cover for the oil bolt which is located on the passenger side next to the wheel. However, the skid does a small angled cutout to access the bolt though. So you don’t have to take off the skid to do an oil change.

Edit. Actually, you might want to take the RCI skid off for the first change and to install the valve since I don’t see a way to avoid a mess if you do leave it on.

For the filter you can get a clear 15mm hose and attach it to the oil filter pan to avoid a mess when you remove it. YouTube video for reference (they have the OEM skid; 11:30 shows the pan and hose).

 

Reeeealy should search the general thread about this. I've attached the views with the RCI plate installed. The RCI skid plate gets installed once and stays there for general maintenance.
The door up front is to get to the oil filter. Attach hose on the bottom of the catch and get a good cap to spin off that filter.
Make sure that hose attached to the bottom of the catch has the other end of it going into an oil catch pan and start spinning off the filter slowly.
Lets not overfill that catch under it.

As for the oil pan. Pics are prior to my fumoto valve install. The RCI skid has a hole on the bottom to let oil drain. Lines up with the oil pan drain pretty good.
With the fumoto valve, I can connect a hose onto it and drain the oil from there without spilling a drop.

 

I swapped out my flowmaster flowFX muffler on my dual exhaust cat-back with a 22” Magnaflow to quiet it down.

Sounds so much better! Basically turned the drone at 2k rpms into a good rumble with no drone anymore, and the higher rpms sound great but quieter and cruising at 1500 rpms is nice with a subtle rumble. No rasp, either.

Plus Magnaflow doesn't make a dual exhaust for a 3rd gen tundra so I'm the only one with that exhaust sound. Now if you’ll excuse me, I’m going to go pat myself on the back.

 

well i thought i would add my rekgen tundra sport flaps i just installed. 1st pic is the oem mud flaps for comparison.

see this post since i dont want to upload pics again and take up storage on the forums....

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2022-mud-flaps.124086/#post-3201397

 

That's awesome, do you have any pics of the set up?

 

you think that tube being that freaking close to the spare will affect that one spot on the spare or cause degradation of the tire itself over time?

 

I think so, personally a little wrap shield on that spot wouldn’t hurt

 

What do I wrap it with? Its pretty close, less than 1/2”

 

Something simple like the products below. Maybe dropping the spare the. wrapping just the cross section.

Design Engineering 010129 Titanium 2" x 15' Exhaust Heat Wrap with LR Technology

$25 Design Engineering Titanium Exhaust Heat Wrap with Lava Rock Technology - 2" x 15' - Heat Wrap for Exhaust Pipes, Pliable Exhaust Wrap Tape, Withstands 1800°F Direct Heat & 2500°F Intermittent Heat

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R4U7G4

Vktech 100pcs Stainless Steel Exhaust Wrap Coated Locking Cable Zip Ties (11.8 Inch)

Vktech 100pcs Stainless Steel Exhaust Wrap Coated Locking Cable Zip Ties (11.8")

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CTKBTH2

 

Awesome, thanks! I will do that just for extra safety. I might even email Holley/Flowmaster and ask them as well.

 

yeah ask them cause who thought that was a great idea to put a big heat source next to a rubber item. biggest concern is if you do stop/go traffic with no air flow to cool that area off.

even then ive seen posts/video even having an exhaust near a hitch carrier setting coolers on fire or melting them pretty easily.

 

Meh.
From personal experience: wife had a 2005 4Runner with Borla dual exhaust for over 15 years.
That exhaust ran as close to the spare tire as yours does.

Nothing ever happened to the spare in those 15 years.

 

I fixed that for ya. Getting lucky and never needing the spare is probably not something I would lean on for 30 bucks worth of materials for insurance. Heat and tires don’t mix.
https://youtu.be/wAlSOuSETSc

 

Did you have to have your truck flashed/remove the air dam?

Was install tough? Been wanting to book that RC winch bumper just a little on the fence about install...yours is the first one I've seen in the wild

 

I thought about putting the spare in the bed once I get my tonneau put on.

No? Bad idea?

Or just remove a 60lb spare entirely and replace it with good luck.

I also bought that exhaust wrap that @TundraTT suggested.

 

Wanna play a Tundras.com scientist for a day for us and perform a semi-scientific test?
(try to control env variables the best you can (same day/time/wind/etc))

Test 1:
Warm up your truck, and keep the RPMs at about 3000. Measure the temp of the tire in a spot closest to the exhaust pipe, then measure the temp of the exhaust pipe itself there.
Test 2:
Wrap your exhaust pipe in heat shield/wrap of choice, then repeat test 1.

I'm genuinely curious @ results.
To someone else above: I don't doubt the impact of heat from the exhaust pipe being this close on rubber of the tire, and don't dispute its damaging effect.
W/o any at all tests and numbers, all we can say is that "yup, if you run your spate tire stationary right next to a 'hot' exhaust pipe it may melt(?) or fail prematurely due to excessive heat.

 

Took it for a 20-minute drive. 69 degrees outside (giggity).

Pics are exhaust, tire, exhaust, tire. I also called Holley tech and they said the exhaust by the tire is too far back to get hot enough to do any damage, but he also sounded bored AF about my question and maybe life in general.

 

...that SOB went and actually did it!

You sir are a scholar and a gentleman.
Cool (or slightly warm) to see some numbers.
Now, add the cooling factor of wind rushing against the pipe/tire and removing generated heat while in motion, and we have what?
Well, nobody knows....but I, for one, would be OK with risking my life with a spare tire mounted that close to the exhaust pipe, based on what you see there.
Will it ever explode once in use due to the extended exposure to heat generated by that exhaust pipe? Who knows....and the potential risk is yours to ponder.

If you choose to run like this, dismount that spare tire say 5-7 years from now. Send it for rubber/spectral/x-ray/etc analisys, and post the results here.
Nobel prize of Tundras.com awaits you! I'm sure!

-99

 

Thanks lol. What I think is cool is that you can buy this cat-back and basically put in any muffler you want. I almost put a Borla in it but didn’t want to possibly deal with drone again.

Since I already bought the exhaust wrap I’ll plan on just wrapping it. I can try this same test once it gets 90° out.

 

Side note:
Random sources online specify average operating temp of DOT tires anywhere from about 150-200 degrees (some lower, some (racing/etc) higher)

Consider this (and these are only my own musings):
In the average overall lifespan of that spare tire, if the average temp of the spot closest to the exhaust pipe does not exceed 200 degrees, I wonder if the effect isn't actually reversed from the concern at hand. Meaning: the tire spot closest to the exhaust pipe is actually "conditioned" much closer to normal tire operating temp, thus that particular section of the tire may in fact be in better condition as opposed to the rest of the tire.
Over time (years perhaps), the spare tire rubber will dry/etc out, being only subjected to external env changes. The spot by the exhaust pipe stays in "normal operating temp" much more and more frequently than the rest of it. This is assuming that the temp doesn't over too high, as to actually cause real damage to that spot only.
Ironically, the tire may fail not b/c of the "warm exhaust" spot, but anywhere except that particular spot.

We'll never know for sure (I have no clue if any real scientific testing of the sort has ever been performed), and if any thing ever happens, the echo chamber here (anywhere) will simply repeat the "common sense" response of "see, we told you so".....without actually knowing for certain.

I gotta feelin' I should lay off the sake for a bit, don't I?

 

Warm or cold sake?

Yeah who knows, I hope the R&D team over at Flowmaster didn’t overlook a glaringly obvious problem when they designed this dual exhaust. I assume they didn’t?

 

I’m not sure what’s happening but life’s too short so cheers!

 

That’s awesome work sir! I was thinking about the 3-400 degrees from the manifold/downpipe area. Never temp gunned a tailpipe before! That’s surprising results. I apologize if I made you buy a wrap. It’s something I would do for piece of mind anyways.

 

I think its because that tire is so far back. Its only a couple feet from the tailpipe.
I understood what @99ways2die was thinking, which I assume was, “lets get this as hot as possible to see what the temps could be in a worst case scenario”.

But I did a real-life scenario, I thought that even if it was stopped somewhere on a hot day, it wouldn’t be idling at 3k RPMs.

Again, I think the coolest thing is that flowmaster made a dual exhaust for the 3rd gen for under $1k. I say sell the flowmaster and put on any muffler you want. I really like the fact that my exhaust is unique and probably no one else has a dual exhaust and especially a Magnaflow dual exhaust.