Hi06silver's unf*CK my tuff country lift thread

Started replacing my 4.5" tuff country lift today. Just the front because it seemed to be the biggest offender of the whole pile.
Everything is actually coming apart really well, aside from trying to reuse the hubs. Basically bent the hell outta one tool and 1 hub due to not have the right shit to fully use the press. Buying new hubs from the leprechaun auto parts store.

I'll add pictures and more how to type stuff and just shit we ran into when it's over.
Here's what I'm doing/ replacing:

Removing factory spindle with stupid spacer. Replacing with tuff country talked spindle for their 5" lift.

Removing factory coil over suspension. Replacing with icon extended travel coilovers.

Replacing factory upper control arms with SPC arms due to the height of the lift.

New lower ball joints.

Thus far things we have ran into are:
Pressing out the hub didn't go well. Buying new hubs.

Now that one side is put back together noticing with weight on the suspension, and the truck on the lift. It seems that the brake lines should probably be lengthened. More for safety if the suspension goes full cycle for some reason.

I'm thinking that limit straps are not a bad idea to save the brake line and the ABS sensor line. Seems like this lift should have came with some way to extend the ABS line if it cycles all the way down it will tear it straight out of the hub more than likely.

Apparently there were some leveling kit spacers in the mess so I don't know really what height it was....lol





Edited*

So far everything rides nice. Way better than before. Likely because at least one of the he factory shocks was leaking. Seems like it "floats"? Maybe a little more bouncy but less rough when hitting bumps. I left the coilovers at factory shipped/ recommend setting for now. Steering seems way more responsive.

Pro tip: everything that could be put in freezer was for tapping or pressing in. Upper ball joint adapters for the control arms. The new dust seals.

All in all things came apart easily because of spraying with PB and probably the fact that I wash my truck often .

SNAGS:

1. ABS wire barely has enough to reach the spot where it mounts at full droop. Thinking limit straps are a good idea. To anyone that knows about them feel free to chime in.

2. One of the abs mounting areas is machined about 1/8" deeper so at this time that isn't attached and the light is on. I have reached out once again to seem if tuff country can help fix this. Sucks because everything is pressed in. Praying they can remedy this without too much b.s.

3. Kinked a brake line. Not totally sure it wasn't kinked before. Had to bend a new one.
I'm thinking that a stainless to eliminate all if the hard line and flex line is a good idea. Not sure if they make a kit for this. Ive read posts about weak pedals after stainless but I don't like the hard lines in this situation.

Best part is that I got to get dirty and do at a minimum of half of the work.






Edit *July 15th
Replaced rear tuff country with ICON 57720cp purchased from Mike's Toys.

Purchased long 17mm x 19mm tekton wrench from Amazon. Wasn't able to use it on shock removal because it was a 14mm on old shock.

Soaked with PB blaster a week before here and there. Still crudded up enough to use a torch for a little extra help when the shaft started turning at the very top. Backed it down, resprayed PB. Wait, spray with soap and water as to minimize and bushing fire by gas tank. Wire brushed a bit. Added heat for 15 seconds or so, clamped vise grips in old shock shaft. Eventually nut came off.

Don't forget if you greased you're frame like I did. Made for a lot of cleaning the forearms afterwards . Derp...

Lower shock mount 64ft/lbs
Top shock mount 15ft/lbs

 

Looking good!

 

Those shocks look so beefy and those tires look good too. Love seeing a little investment go into these trucks.

 

Thanks! I think I could've paid it off with what I've spent in the last 6 months. I feel tons better about the safeness of it now.
Gotta give a shout to @NMR@ider76 he's helped quite a bit with questions. Solid guy!

 

Those old shocks…. Lol.

Nice work!

 

Previous alignment is first, before all the new suspension parts were installed.

Second is today's alignment. Then picture of wheel for reference and criticism...

 

Needs more caster IMO.

I currently run 2.5 degrees. Much better feeling and handling (this is beyond factory spec.)
Toe and camber is good.

Moving caster higher pushes the wheels towards the bumper and helps with clearance of the inner fender/footwell area.

 

I based it off of this https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/...read-w-links-and-shop-recommendations.112656/.

I wonder if they couldn't get there without sacrificing camber? One of my best friends (mechanic) went to another guys shop that had the alignment machine to help him being as he new more about what went on with the transformation and is the whole reason the truck was even there. That was a tad of a run-on buttfuckit!

 

Probably not. Should be easily achievable. @empty_lord has 2.6-2.8 caster iirc and he's also lifted.


I typically start a Tundra/Tacoma/4runner (all similar suspension design) alignment by pushing the rear adjusters on BOTH sides (closest to steering rack) to the maximum width outward and then start dialing in the caster and camber using the front adjusters and maybe the rear if necessary.

Going up to -1.0 camber to get better caster is a worthwhile trade off.

Here's where I last set my alignment at:

 

Any problems running the extended travel icon coilovers?

 

Not so far. I don't off-road so it's not like I'm leaving the ground and they are going full droop ever. If I were to do that I'd probably need limit straps as the spring comes into contact when it's on a lift at full droop. Which I think is very common, I don't know if I'd like it on a hard landing though.

 

Sorry to bring this thread from the dead but I have questions for you Hi06silver....

I also have a shitty tuff country 5in lift. Bought it from PO with installed, and a 3in body lift. I want to unfuck my suspension and just go with the 6112/5160 combo. not sure what springs. and maybe an AAL.

1. Do I need to replace with factory spindle?

2. Do i have to take off the one piece subframe?

3. I'm guessing I remove the coil spring spacers and the blocks from the rear?

Let me know man! I wanna get this thing done, sitting on jack stands in my driveway lol

 

You'd likely need factory spindle to go down 2 stock. You could possibly find a coilover that will replace your factory one and the spacer above it.

Yes, You're not going to stock heights without a good welder/fabricator to fix the frame and maybe a donor frame to replace the chunks that are cut out when installing this bracket lift.

Yes- to removing spacers and blocks.

I believe the best bet to remove rear block is with new custom springs. Haven't been down that road yet.

Not having seen your truck, I'd keep the 5 inch lift, get rid of body lift you say you have installed(not the block in back, thats just part of the 5" lift) and get new coils for the from. Then shock for rear.

p.s.- I went to the 5 inch from 4.5 inch just to ditch the stupid spindle spacer, the rest was just needed to do that and refresh the suspension at the same time. I think it's way safer now, keep in mind I don't go off-road . This is NOT a Baja long travel truck set up lol.


The more you start fuckin with the more you may end up spending. Mangled hubs, abs, sensors brake lines, wheel bearing etc.

 

This video, taken from his thread, gives you the full rundown. The body lift was actually nicely done. I think he'll notice a marked difference just getting one of those blocks out to level. With the body lift gone, it would look almost like your truck, I think.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6VIrr7rsVg​

 

God dang that's a lot of work I didn't know I was getting myself into . I'm almost thinking it would be easier to sell the truck at this point and get a totally stock one. Then just add the 6112/5160 shocks from there. The body lift on this truck isn't worth it for me to un-do all the suspension work that has been done already.. It seems like I would spend A TON of money/my own labor to bring this truck back to somewhat normal riding conditions.. What are your thoughts on this?

Custom springs, trying to find stocks spindles, removing all the BS brake lines, hubs.... that's a lot.

Jeesh haha..


Thank ya'll for your help, for real

 

Depends on if you think you can get outta it what ya want or need. If the frame is clean that's a big keeping point, especially if you can do the suspension work. If you're set on going back to stock heights then that is where I'd start and it would probably be easier to sell and start from there. It's all wether you're gonna be able to find a clean frame with mileage etc you're good with after that.
I like my truck how it sits and if I had the time to camp for weeks on end I'd have no problem building it out that way. I bought mine for the clean frame and for the longevity of the truck in general. As you've read in all those posts I didn't know about the lift styles when I bought. It's safe for what I do, clean and I like it. Maintenance is with anything, and.i enjoy that to a certain extent lol.

I don't have the body lift you do btw. Just spindles and block in back. For reference I sit 42" to center of from wheel well and 42.5 back on 285/75/17.

 

Honestly, just pulling a single block out of the rear to get that ass-end down, or buying proper leaf springs to get it at-level with no blocks would be ideal before sale. Doing that, replacing rear shocks, fixing the alarm spaghetti situation, and replacing the head unit, treating the trim, remove the no-quarter flags from it, I can see the right seller on the west coast giving a solid $13k-14k for it on quick sale. The blocks and shocks cheapen the whole thing, the rest is pretty much just cosmetic stuff.

 

I can do the suspension work but it seems like a massive overhaul. The frame is pretty darn good to go IMO. Lets say I wanted to keep the height of the truck, do I still have to get custom springs? the 5100's wouldn't direct swap in the back because of the extended length I'm guessing? What if i take the blocks out of the back?

I would like to keep the truck but I'm really balancing what is worth my time/money. Whats the no-quarter flags haha?

God dang it I'm so torn.

 

Wow I just realized where the frame is cut... I'm selling it. Too much of a headache. More un-doing madness than it is upgrading components on the truck. Sad but I will 1000% be on the look out for another 1GT. Just have to sell this one first

 

On the upside, you know exactly what you have now, with regards to the Tuff Country lift, body lift, etc.