New to me 2001 4x4 5spd V6

Can anyone help me with the Toyota part number for the lower ball joint and the upper a-arm?

 

If you go to the main page here for 1st Gens, there are pinned threads. One of those is ALL about LBJs, including part numbers.

 

LBJ info: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lower-ball-joints-part-numbers.97100/

Might as well get new bolts too.

I would almost guarantee you, if you sign up at Toyota Owners and add your VIN to your account, you'll find the frame has been replaced. If so, that's why the LCA look so good, they were swapped with the frame. Now it's your job to keep the frame coated, so it's not rusted out again in 5 years.

If this were me, I'd be looking to replace a lot of the suspension stuff with OEM. Definitely do the LBJ now.

You can tell just by looking under the hood, the previous owner(s) didn't bother to clean shit after snow season, because everything under the hood is rusty-crusty also. Expect leaks eventually, potentially with hard brake and/or fuel lines unless those got swapped with the frame too.

 

His frame and LCAs were replaced

 

Brake lines are replaced with the frame for liability reasons. Toyota doesn't do fuel lined pro Bono.

Could you imagine the lawsuit if toyota replaced the frame due to rust for safety reasons and then didn't replace the rusty brake lines for the same reason and somebody died over it???

 

Ah, just scrolled back and saw OP's comment on that, I've been traveling and posting from smartphone. Replaced in 2016. Good on him.

 

Yes all the hard brake lines look new.
Thanks, I'll check out the post for the lower ball joint replacement

 

Oof. Those LCA's look rusty already.

 

UCAs*

And yeah, I'd be replacing those STAT.

It's cool the 'heavy part' sticker on the replacement frame is still intact after 7yrs.

 

?? I'm looking at a picture of his lower control arm and lower ball joints. I haven't seen his uppers yet.

 

The truck is in Florida. Ive never had to deal with rust. The truck is originally from New York. Do I need to really do anything to the frame now that it's here in Florida?

 

If you're keeping it in Florida, probably not. Just wash it regularly (including the engine bay) after you get all the rusty stuff replaced. Inspect the underside every year or so to head off any problems that may come up.

 

I can't hurt. I'm in Tennessee and I put Fluid Film on mine. I would at least coat the inside of the box portion that starts just behind the front tires.

But to your point, unless you're gonna be near the beach a lot you should be fine.

 

I mean, not necessarily if in FL, unless you're launching a boat in salt water constantly, driving on beach which is mostly illegal everywhere now, or right up on the coast parking outdoors all the time. You may want to wire brush some of those rust seams (see the one in the pic below where steel overlap happens on top of framerail, suggesting it's seen some weather/salt, or rust inspired from rusty water dripping from above) and hit with a basic Rustoleum satin black.

Your comment came right after this pic, hence my confusion.

 

Ubj

 

God DAMN. Yeah, I would do the UCA and the strut while you're there. Woof.

 

Check your steering rack as well. They like to rust at the bushings and start leaking.

 

P.O. replaced the steering rack

 

Even your new frame has rust. And that's just what we can see. Certainly has more rust inside that box portion. Fluid Film inside the box portion will last months if not years. You could douche it really good and know it should be good to go.

 

Nice. I would try to clean up the knuckle, hit it with some Steel-it/rust converter, just because those are a pain in the butt to separate. But if they are in bad shape, you might wanna consider replacing them as well.

 

I'd do the struts with new springs, UCA and UBJ, LBJ, swaybar links. While things are out, I'd hit the steering knuckle with a wire wheel and repaint with satin black Rustoleum, a couple of properly timed coats per the re-coat window instruction on the can.

Edit: I'ts not like the swaybar links look bad, but the bushings do look dry rotten/cracked, and good aftermarkets aren't too expensive.

 

Also, while those CV axles will totally last forever with basic maintenance, a lot of times you can get OEM rebuilds from Toyota for as cheap as $125 with a $75 core, they periodically and unexpectedly drop the price, maybe when they have more inventory in stock and need to move it? I saw someone on here that got an OEM rebuilt replacement for $112! It may be worth updating later, but not unless they're giving you issues.

 

Honestly I have not even put it in 4wd yet to see how it works

 

Don't know the acronyms yet whats UCA?
Yes I want to fix it all up. I plan to keep this truck I really love it. I need a box of Rust-Oleum paint cans....

 

It's something you should really check. Just don't turn the wheels if you test on pavement.

If you can find loose ground, like sugarsand, which is all over central FL at least, just tap the 4HI button and wait for it to go solid, 1-2 secs is normally all it takes. You can turn it on while in motion, under 50mph

If you can only find pavement, find somewhere you can drive in a straight line, start rolling, tap the 4HI button and wait the same, should go solid. Tap again to turn it off.

You should know, Toyota says you need to be driving at least 10 miles per month (IIRC) in at least 4HI to keep things lubricated. You may want to do a fluid change. Be careful which fluids you go with.

4LO requires you to be successfully engaged in 4HI first, then stop, shift to neutral, then press 4LO button to engage.

 

Upper control arm. What the arrow is pointing at, the steel U-shaped thing holding the UBJ.

UCA = upper control arm
LCA = lower control arm
UBJ = upper balljoint
LBJ = lower balljoint
TRE = tie rod end (there's an inner and outer, each side)

EDIT: Got my uppers and lower bassackwards.

 

I'm looking around the cab but do not see a single button to press for the 4WD anywhere in this truck...

 

Ah shit, that's right. You have a v6 4wd, in the floor.

 

My Brother in Manual, that smaller shift lever is how you shift it to 4WD. Watch a quick YT vid if you're not certain how to do it.
And to echo a previous comment, if you do trans/diff/xfer case fluid swap, make sure you get the right stuff. There is a YT channel called "The Car Care Nut" who is a Toyota mastertech, he talks about which fluids you should use where.

 

Thank you. I will check out the videos I do want to swap the fluids