Ironman 4x4 Suspension

Thank you for correcting my error.

 

Got my replacement coilovers in just a few days after calling, excellent service.

 

For those who have this kit, are you guys running the sway bar still?

 

Nope. Take it off...

https://i.imgur.com/RYuBBMj.gif

 

I just took mine for a test drive after taking the front sway bar off a couple of hours ago.
@rruff, thanks for making that recommendation mate!
It's hard to describe exactly how it behaves while making tight corners/turns and abrupt changes in direction but the drive is firm and I did not at all feel the vehicle being unstable going into turns. There's a slight change in angle, very subtle and that's it.
I'm off to the Oregon Dunes this Sunday so there will be some off-road action and testing. Will report back!
Cheers.

 

Ya, I'm very amazed and pleased at the performance of these shocks.

 

I installed my kit on Monday, haven’t driven it much yet. But I like it so far, I was thinking of running longer front end links for the sway bar.

 

Quick side shot.

 

Is that the standard IM rear springs giving you that much lift?

If you go offroad much you might like having that swaybar gone.

 

Do all OG ironman coils have that bow? I'm starting to think I'm in that same boat. What do yall think?

I've also noticed that after I get an alignment, it's still always off. The steering wheel leans to the right.

 

yeah that’s the standard load springs installed.

The sway bar will be coming off when I do my next oil change… too lazy to pull the trd skid plate I installed a few weeks ago to remove the sway bar.

 

Looks fine; plenty of clearance. It's only an issue if it bows so much that it hits the shock body.

For some reason so many places have a tough time with Tundra alignments. Does it pull, or is the wheel just not centered? Do you have a print out? At any rate the shocks have nothing to do with that.

 

Well if that's the case, then yeah I'm fine. It if had hit the shock body, I would have 100% known by now. I've used the hell out of them. It doesn't pull, the steering wheel is just not resting on center. I've taken it to two different Firestones and they can't seem to get it.

I'm thinking it might be the 35" tires. I'm about to put my 33s back on for a road trip from California up to Washington. Maybe that will fix it. I had a copy of my alignment but I threw it away today. If I were to get a copy, could you tell what the problem would be just by looking at it?

 

I could tell if something was off on the printout, but sometimes the printout doesn't match what it is... It could be something simple like not having the wheel quite centered when they did the toe adjustments. When I did mine in the driveway, I recall there was a lot of iteration because the wheel would keep moving. If you have a level place to park, you can eyeball it... sight along the side of the front tires to the rear. Use a straight edge it that helps. Just a hair of toe-in is spec, and it should be the same on both sides with the wheel centered.

 

I'll give it a shot. I'm not one to mess with my alignment, I've done that before and it didn't work out too well for me. I'll also get a printout of the last alignment that I had.

 

Does anyone have any experience with the rack hitting the lower shock mounts and knocking the toe out every time it drives? IM is saying that they have never seen this before and I am going on three weeks with the issue... Ready to throw in the towel right now as the alignment shop has turned me away due to this issue....

 

Did you remove the tire rod end when installing the coils? Is it possible that it is in upside down?

 

No, i did not remove them.

I followed the video they have on their site.

 

Wow... I wondered about that with that big spring perch so low on the shock. Nobody was complaining, so I thought it must be ok...

Do you see actual rubbing on the parts? Only one side?

 

Yes it is on both sides... my steering wheel is off center and I am not willing to take it off road in this condition... The last thing I need is for the Rack to break and leave me stranded...

 

This was with the ReadyLift 3/2

 

Well this is concerning, I have to install mine soon.

 

I just received an email from Bubba and he said they had a meeting with upper management this morning and would have an answer for me today. It just doesnt make sense...

 

I have the old style springs, but the perch is low because it's adjusted to 2".

I definitely have contact with the tie rod bellows at full lock, which doesn't seem ideal, but I don't see any issues so far. It looks like yours is about the same.

Are you sure metal parts are rubbing? Alignment could be going out for other reasons. Something loose for instance.

 

Everything has been checked over and appears good…

 

I'm not having that problem. Then again I have the older version. If you adjust the bottom ring, it would NOT hit right? My bottom ring is a bit higher than yours. I just locked out my steering wheel in both directions and I still clear. BUT if my bottom ring was lower, I would for sure hit. I'll upload some pictures.

 

These are all pictures with the wheel locked out in both directions.

 

Sucks to see the rubbing issue. I was gonna try and lower mine to get less than 3.5”, but looks like that may not be an option if they’re going to hit the tie rod. Still haven’t got to install mine yet. Really didn’t want 3.5” in the front, trying to avoid the squatted look especially once my trailer is hooked up, as the rear is only lifted 1.5” or so with an AAL.

 

If you get the heavy duty leaf springs, the squatter issue might not be a thing. I have a 200lb rear bumper and then when I load it up with like 800lb worth of stuff, I still don't get that squatter look. On top of having the car loaded with 6 people. I can't speak to their current quality of products; it seems like their new line up is having issues compared to their prior line up of products.

 

That's the situation I have with a 2" lift... but it's just the rubber bellows that touches. It could be a problem on switchback trails, but it all looks ok so far. I'm not convinced that jhines621 is touching more than the bellows either, since it doesn't look like it from the photo.

This is another reason for someone to go back to the drawing board (again) and make the damn spring shorter. The new one is even longer than the old one, and that was longer than any Tundra spring in existence. I do like the long-soft spring, but it needs to be 1-2" shorter, which shouldn't be an issue. The shock doesn't have long travel, so a shorter spring should be fine.

I fear IM is going to end up dumping this shock for 2nd gen if they need to do a redesign and more replacements for another screw up.

I don't think it was an option anyway since there are hardly any threads left. My truck will be heavily loaded eventually, so I might be able to adjust these new springs down to ~2" but I think 3" is about the limit otherwise. Still hope someone tries it though and takes good measurements.