What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

PNW rain feels worse than snow. I say that without having done real snow time. But I truly hate 30’s and rainy for days.

 

Wallet is that much lighter now... By the way, a current working code for 5% right now is 230147165206768277

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Denso instead of Autel. Interesting.

 

What?!?! Dude, you're just really taking it in the rear.... pun intended. Did you get the 1 wheel insurance Sid was telling us about? 90 day return policy? Anything? fawk brother, sorry to hear that

dirty balls. very...very..dirty balls.
Actually, my old mans seat likely looked the same. Everytime we got into his truck (when I was a very small boy) He'd have a bud can between his legs and a 2nd in the cupholder.

That's racist these days. Watch yerself now......

you need lockers. buy lockers. you need lockers. must buy lockers now...well, maybe after a front bumper...
@FrenchToasty any chance you took water in thru the axle housing vent? or have you done the extension mod already?

 

One of the first mods I did, it’s crazy to think the desert rat got wet bearings!

 

How did the fluid look when you drained it? Milky?

 

I think it's the humidity. When I was in Seattle in February it was around 95% humidity near the harbor and felt terrible.

 

that's tires, I think someone can straighten it though. I have to check it again though to make sure it wasn't a seating problem. could have been user error.

 

~9% tax?!!

 

Not milky at all, the inner seal held, but one of the others didn’t, allowing water to only be in the bearing area, not the entire dif

 

I'd rather do what's compatible if the prices are comparable. OEM lasted 15-16 years, I'll install OEM again.

Yeah, dunno. It's why I love the 5% off coupon, it at least offsets the burn a little.

 

Unless it's a timing belt. Always fix a timing belt before its broken.

Checking is the right thing to do. Never going to discourage that... I learned that lesson the hard way.

 

I was going to order some stuff this weekend and had so much hell, I gave up. Some of the parts even searching the specific number would not come up. Parts it would list for the truck were wrong. Hopefully they clean it up soon

 

Inspection & bath day.

so far, all the brakes look great.

 

I took a job in Rhode Island...my Infiniti i35 from Utah without one spec of rust has the exhaust flange rust out within 3 months.

Coworkers who helped me diagnose the problem were astonished of the lack of rust underneath the car.

Needless to say after 6 years my poor car was more or less destroyed by simply being there.

 

Did you figure out the part number. My two rear windows have an issue as well. I haven't looked closely to see which part of that assembly is broken on mine. I don't believe it's the same issue as yours but since you're on the look out for window latches figured I'd ask you to point me in the right direction.

 

Is this stock? Mine came with the K&N stickers. Was looking into swapping for paper.

 

Here was my take:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1612#post-3182844

But also check this list from @assassin10000:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1612#post-3183051

I dunno where he got that list though, and I can't figure out what the difference is between, for example, the 1st and 4th part in his list. When I looked up the part for my specific VIN, I came up with the base part number from my reply (1st link). If it's following Toyota's VIN naming convention, it may be Japanese-made vs. Chinese-made: If the VIN starts with a letter, then it was manufactured outside of both North and South America---where “J” is for Japan, “K” is for Korea, “S” is for the UK, “W” is for Germany, “L” is for China, and “Z” is for Italy.

I'd personally rather have a Japanese part than Chinese, and the price is the same on both for my truck.

 

no, i think grandpa bought it early on. The stickers are worth 10hp, just throw a paper element in there and keep the extra power. Haha

 

Man I need me some white doors.

 

This is good advice!

 

uhhh... Left and Jrivers

... sorry it's too early

 

@shifty`

On a serious note... I believe 'L' is referencing parts sourced 'locally' and 'J' is referencing parts that are sourced in Japan...

 

Here's another code I got from the Rock
230953808207457620

 

I'd read that one on another forum too, but Local to where, exactly? That's the only thing that didn't make sense. Then when I read on another forum about the correlation to VIN, and we know damn near everything is made in China these days, the L alluding to China similar to how it does with the VIN made a hell of a lot more sense. The part is the same price. I may just order the J one, not sure yet.

 

It may no longer be truly applicable, but I think the original 'spirit' of it was for dealerships to have an idea on wait times to receive a particular part based on its origin.

In other words an (L) part would be shipping out of a North American OE parts source, so turn around time would generally be within 7-10 days.

In contrast, a (J) part that was not currently available would be shipping out of Japan and would generally take at least 3-4 weeks.

Basically, I think this would have given service advisors that opportunity to tell customers when dealing w/J part numbers, 'hey, we'd prefer to use an OE part, but it will be shipping out of Japan and the repair could therefore take up to a month to complete; or if you prefer, we can source a non-OE part locally from Napa, etc... and have you done by tomorrow

 

Dunno, but based on the 2nd quintet of numbers, it would appear L for local and J for Japan-sourced as you said would be right, if we go by labels on parts I could find for this latch in particular, where 34012 was marked (J) in the list, and 0c011 was marked (L):

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The low/high beam is controlled by a shutter on the projectors. That's why HIDs when done right have a pronounced cutoff. That's the shutter. HIDs only have one output so the shutter controls the amount of light being projected.

 

Gates serpentine kit.

Oem tensioner vs gates deal. Both made in Canada! Gates pulley smaller than oem but has greater ranger of articulation. Gates seems well made, casting is nice too. Oem had bad bearing, see pic for you oem only folks who want to only install new nsk bearing to maintain oem tensioner.

*Bonus show of Aisin t belt kit, mitsuboshi made in usa with 32k miles wear.

 

NSK bearings. I used to use those and GMN in my skateboard wheels when I couldn't afford the higher quality Swiss bearings.