1st gens to Sedona 2023!!!

I appreciate it but I have one too. I just didn't bring it to Arizona. It's staying in my truck from now on.

 

Good recipe for some decent powerslides on rainy days. *with LSD. I dont have a rsb yet, but i might lose my front if i 'jury'rig this bastardization i have planned. I'm thinking i'll swap my springs and caps onto the 3rd gen taco bilsteins i have, and add the 2 tallest leafs i got from french & dejenerated. Depending on how the addaleafs handle load, i might opt for airbags, cause i've got a trailer to haul. I want more ?droop? Like extension? The taco springs are definately beefier than my stock progressives. And if i can find long enough bumpstops, i shouldnt break off the stilt the shock is welded to. I think the fronts are about 2" longer (almost 3 at the wheel) and the rears are about 2" longer, but i dont plan on overloading without the airbags. If all this works i might be able to put those 20" 33x12's to use...they're nitto's.

 

Ahh sounds good. I somehow have a few of those little wrenches, not sure how I ended up with them lol

 

That’s super tech nerd on YouTube with the long travel FJ found almost no loss of articulation with a rear sway bar

 

Watched the same video, super nerd indeed

 

I’d like to see this video because if that were true there would be no purpose to a sway bar. They by definition limit articulation, that’s their purpose

If setup correctly they may not limit travel sure, but articulation definitely

 

After putting new springs on it felt like I have a sway bar back there

 

https://youtu.be/gcgKbUTQJy8

He post some pretty interesting stuff

 

Big difference between a rear sway bar to a solid axle, and a front sway bar to independent suspension. Huge difference actually

 

He was measuring articulation, not travel

 

So couple of things I think are good to note when bringing that video into this thread:

He is testing all of this pretty much solely on FJ cruisers. Those are coil sprung which are going to articulate way different than any leaf sprung truck. In my experience your average coil setup won’t flex nearly as well as a leaf pack. I sway bar will more than likely cause some level of articulation loss unless there is another limiting factor like the shock length

As he stated, spring rates affect all this in a variety of ways. Comparing the fj to a tundra is very much apples to oranges as the Tundras don’t have nearly as much weight over the rear axle (even with a camper shell) Stiff spring rates and even shock valving can simulate the same affects as a sway bar. if setup too stiff, it may limit your articulation, which I believe is exactly what was going on with his fj. The springs didn’t want to flex so the added forces of the rear sway bar were necessary to force that flex. If setup with a lighter spring I doubt that would be the case.

The length of the vehicle also affects the forces applied to both axles as the weight can be distributed differently. This will affect that balance differently depending on length vs weight

Overall articulation doesn’t always matter, especially if you’re talking about a 2wd. Not every obstacle will articulate the front and the rear, but if that rear comes off the ground and you don’t have a locker you aren’t going anywhere. Personally I’d be more worried about rear articulation and being able to move than whatever the front is doing in that scenario

Another factor not talked about in that video is that having a rear sway bar with no front is more likely to cause snap oversteer (out of no where drift), especially in a truck. This is because the front of the truck wants to lean while the rear is trying to stay flat. Great if you’re trying to drift every corner, not great if you’re on a tight road like the 89a

 

I'm just looking at not getting on my side on the highway with a load. I'll be testing a rear sway at some point, but I'm not running any currently.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cry5mGkPLjW/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

 

start looking at a torsion sway bar with QD end links…

 

front or rear?

 

With QD end links, a properly tuned set (f/r) will give you the best of both worlds as you can engage/disengage given you conditions.

 

I'll check it out, I kept my front sway, never had a rear.

 

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/products/antirock-sway-bars

Leavin this here to give you ideas..

 

If you keep the front it will definitely stabilize you. If you ditch it and get the rear could get hairy.
Like @BiggHertz said, a set of quick disconnect end links might be the way to go. Pull the pins when offroad and send it

 

Blanding, Utah fucking sucks. God bless the Shirt Tail Junction Store and their multiple options of PBR to choose from.

 

On another note, If anyone has any leads of fab/rear end shops that knows toyota, I'd love to hear about them. Not the 12K camburg setup, I just need way more than 8.4" gives me.

 

I'm pretty far behind in this conversation, but Hulk kinda illustrates what Kyle is explaining, albeit not on purpose. Front sway bar removed to accommodate Long Travel rebuild up front. The back has Deavers HD springs to handle significant weight in the bed during multi-day overlanding trips... and these are really stiff. Plus, the track width in back is 5" narrower than in front; plus, that cantilever changes the geometry of movement... he back kinda wants to pass the front in numerous circumstances. I'm used to it now, and pretty good at keeping everything g going in the same direction, but it's a beast, and feels like Kyle described. Basically, driving down a steep grade at freeway speeds on pavement, like the south access to/from Big Bear, with a bunch of weight loaded in the truck, the bed and back feels stiff and planted, but the front leans like it wants to do a shoulder roll. Off-road or on hellaciously torn up roadway like we saw on S/B 17, on which the rear tires bounce of the pavement, the truck can get squirrely... and I always wish I had a front sway bar-- because that "feels like" the fix.

 

don’t underestimate the importance of shock tuning…especially with variable loads…

 

I'd suggest you call SoCal Suspension on Marshall Ave in El Cajon... the owner has a Very Built Tundra Prerunner. Also Keith at Dirty D eeds may have some insight, and is great at giving verbal explanations until you get in the same page-- and he doesn't sell this stuff, so his advice would be all based on his experience. Finally, a guy that used to work at SoCal moved over to DirtKing in San Diego, and he was very helpful. Nick, I think. And Bruce's is always my favourite brain to start with.

 

Yes! It's definitely improved with tuning. But I'd bet it could be even better-- just not a bunch of ready helpers that know the combination I'm running. Matt m c m found me Saturday to say 'hi' and I told him I realize I'd have benefited if I'd had him tune everything for me. But that was 4 years ago. This is probably the summer I should pull the shocks for a preemptive rebuild--then maybe play with it a little more.

 

you’re a stone’s throw from the fine folks at @AccuTune Offroad in El Cajon or you can request the services of Les @LKTundra here in northern Phoenix. I think KDM is out in Ventura, a bit north of you.

 

no rear sway for me and no plans to add on. Front is in the garage which I will throw back on for long trips/highway driving with the fam/loaded. They are easy enough to take on off

 

I showed up just as he was buttoning it up and watched in amazement.
I’m claiming 0.01% for that.

 

Thanks @ToyoMafia

I wonder if the Texas crew have used theirs yet.

 

I've been using mine since i got it. Really came in handy for polo on the trails. Whatever he didnt drink out of his bowl went back into the bottle, so i wasnt wasting water.