Seat heater install.

^ Black out looks awesome too Frank!

 

If you use an add a tap fuse for the power wire instead of going straight to battery, do you leave the Inline fuse that is attached to the power wire?

can the ignition and night light wires my heated seats came with also be wired to a separate fuse on the interior cabin or do you get power for those from somewhere else? Any advice would
Be greatly appreciated.

 

You can get 12v from the fuse box. there is a 4 gauge wire there, Illumination and ignition can be gotten at the cigarette lighter

 

Lucky me the 2020+ come with heated seats. Wish they have cooling too.

 

There's a fuse for heated seats, just use an add a fuse to it, you can leave the inside fuse on for added safety if you want. You can tap into lights behind the climate controls


@BenSan Only certain 2020+ models come with them, mine is 2020 sport, and didn't, but it did with remote start, which I can't use because the toyota key fob issue.

 

Currently wiring my heated seats on my 2016

Im trying to figure out how to use this fuse tap. It says not to exceed 10amp. Should I not worry about that.

Also if I tap into the 20amp heated seat fuse what other fuse do I put into the second slot

Thanks for the help

 

Your seat heater harness has fuses in it right?
Just tap into the 12volt plug circuit in the console/panel..
I've been running mine for 5 years without issue.

The seat heater fuse in the fuse box is wired to work with dual zone climate controls (where the heated seat switches would be).
Did you find the specific hot lead to that seat heater fuse?
.

 

Yeah it came with 2 of these

No I didn't find any hot lead

Sorry I'm oblivious to this but 12v plug circuit where would that be?

Thanks a ton for the help

 

Here is the seat heater fuse schematic.
It all runs thru the dual zone climate control.





Does your harness only have 2 leads, hot and ground?
I know some of them have more since they come with relays.

You can tap into whatever you want, I just found tapping into the 12volt plus the easiest option.
They are ACC so they will only be one when the key is on.
At least that is how my 2014 SR5 is with bucket seats.
I see you have a bench seat.
If you decide to tap into the 12 volt plug, make sure they are ACC (only on when the key is on) on not a battery circuit (powered all the time)..

 

It may be different with your bench seat.
Is there a panel under the radio and climate control that has 12 volt sockets, USB plug, etc?
I replaced my right 12 volt plug with an ammeter and extra usbs

 

Yeah 2 leads 1hot 1ground for each side driver and passenger. I've already installed the switches and have all the wiring near the interior fuse box.

 

I tapped into wiring/circuit those 12 volt plugs are on.
I used positaps and connected them to that wiring.
But my seat heater harness had inline fuses I left in just as a precaution.

I wish I'd taken more wiring pics when I installed mine.

You can use that fuse tap in the fuse box under the dash.
Is that where the seat heater fuse is?
If so, I would think it would be hot at the fuse box and you could use it.
Again, test it to make sure it is ACC switched.
Schematic reads ign at the power source so it should be.

I've never used a tap like that.
But think one fuse is to replace the existing fuse you pulled to stick it in the fuse box, and the other fuse is for the hot lead (red wire) off the tap.
Not sure which one is which.

If the seat heater fuse is in the underdash fuse box, and it's indeed hot with the key on, that would be better than cutting into an existing circuit as I did.

I'd go out and look at my truck but its at the dealership.
I hope this all makes sense.
I'm not a mechanic or an electrician..

 

Thanks for all your help and feedback hopefully you get your truck back soon.

 

Thanks, waiting for my stolen cats to come in.

Hope you get it working.
I installed my seat heaters for my wife, but I found I use them more than I thought I would.

There are several options to replace the 12volt plugs with extra USB ports if you were interested in doing that.
Amazon.com : usb car charger socket

Took very little work to install mine.
Besides, I like having a digital ammeter..
Replaced both of mine..





Be safe..

 

I used same one, you put 2 - 10amp fuses in

 

So...would there be any concerns with tying the red/turn-on wiring together? I got some seat heaters from Ebay a couple months ago and am taking a look at them now. They've got a turn-on wire so they're not constantly drawing power, but if I wire them in with a tap into the seat heater fuse on the block, that would essentially kill two birds with one stone, right? The instructions I see from Clazzio on their site indicate they don't even have a turn-on wire, just power and ground wires for the heaters they sell (which look to be some variation of the exact same ones you get anywhere - Ebay, Amazon, etc.)...



*Edited to add - there are FOUR wires in this kit -

1. On
2. Ground
3. Power
4. Night light

Seems excessive? I'm pretty certain I don't want them to be activated by the headlights/nightlights or anything in particular. Not sure why I wouldn't be able to just tie the On/Power/Night light together and tap them into the open seat heater fuse, since it's switched anyway.

 

May have answered my own question a bit with the included instructions - it appears there's an attached relay to the setup, so it would need a separate power source (hence the wired-in 5a <relay> and 15a <power supply> fuses). The headlight/nightlight wire isn't fused...I'm 99% certain I can run that with the power wire.

 

Boy oh boy...reading more and answering my own questions I think - the headlight/nightlight wiring is for the SWITCH LIGHTING, and shouldn't have anything to do with the actual functionality of the heaters themselves (duh!). I guess in that case I *would* not want that running with the power wire, otherwise the switch lights would be on all the time. I'm guessing there are lots of options to tap into an existing lighting wire in the dash there. I guess it's also not the worst thing in the world for the switched to not be illuminated and/or constantly illuminated lol

 

Thinking more on this...I'll pull out my trusty multi-meter and check it all out later, but it seems like a couple of fuse taps will be the smartest/easiest way to go -

#2 fuse - power driver's seat; I don't have this on my truck, and I'm going to assume it's constant power. It's a 30a fuse so I'd think the circuit is designed for enough power (the seat heater circuit below is only a 20a fuse...)

#23 fuse - seat heaters; while it makes logical sense to use this for the heaters themselves, the fact that it's switched means I can use it for the "on" wire tap

Pull the illumination from another switch in the area.

 

Test drove a voodoo and it didnt even have dual climate control while the ol 08 does. No sub, no seat heater, nothing.

 

You can use the seat heater fuse for both, or do you want the light to come on the same time as your headlights? If you wire them together, the light will be on all the time when the truck is on. Won't notice it during the day, but simple way to wire then up.

 

I was thinking about it... Maybe just vanity to not have them light up during the day, but I think I'm going to wire them up separately. It should be easy enough to tap into an illumination wire from another switch.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154408747292
I think it was these that I was thinking about buying but haven't yet. They look a little more OEM and such.

 

Those are the exact ones I bought, for the exact reason you mention!

 

Did your heaters come with a separate yellow wire to power the lights in the switches?
If so, did you simply wire the yellow together with the red power wire?

 

No, my little round switches don't have illumination.
They light up only when they are on.

As long as your red power is connected to ACC and not the battery, I don't see why you couldn't hook them together..

 

I'm using the front cig lighter power for the seat heaters and the rear cig lighter power to switch on the DC-DC charger. I don't use the cig lighter sockets for anything and they are both powered on with ignition.
I got the kit with the potentiometer switches that are illuminated. Typing that out,.....I just realized that they are night lights and the yellow should tap into my light circuit. But I can just wire it to power. I don't mind if they're always lit.
There's also another red wire. No idea what that powers. The kit didn't come with instructions or even labels on the wires.
There's 4 heating pads and I'm only using 2. One in each of the seat backs. And I'm the only person in the truck 99.99999% of the time, so the cig lighter circuit should be more than enough for a single pad, 3 mo out of the year.

 

I tapped mine into the 12V plug too.
My wife uses the set heaters in the summer when I'm running the AC.
She is the reason I installed them, she is always cold.

Curious as to why you didn't put the seat bottoms in?
If you already have the seat out, it isn't that much more work..

 

Mostly because,.....every heated seat I've ever sat in, the ass heater gives me swamp ass and I can't even feel the back. My back is pretty beat and I want the back heater more for relief than cold weather. But cold weather too. I'm swapping the vinyl covers for fabric, so that will help a lot with temp/comfort. And lesser reasons are: the seat bottoms are a little more involved with cutting slots and tucking in were the hog rings are, I'll be drawing less power, won't have to install separate switches to turn them off, etc.
Also, I'll have 2 extra pads. Maybe I'll think of something to use them for.

 

Also, I figured out that the kit I bought was intended to be hooked to direct battery with a fuse, then a smaller red wire for ignition-on, then the yellow wire to illuminate the switches from the lights-on.
I just twisted them all together and hooked them to the cig lighter power to test everything. All systems go.
The cig lighter circuit is fused, so I'm going to wire everything up and skip the little inline fuse. Once everything is tidy and tucked behind the dash, I don't want to tear everything apart to change a fuse. If the cig light fuse is more than 10-15 amps, I'll put a smaller fuse in.
Hopefully it's in the fuse panel under the hood. I'm not enjoying the contortionist act of working in/under the dash like I did 20 yrs ago. All future mods will be with me in the upright position.