Best oil and filter (changed by a 3rd party)?

So, I'm sure this has been asked before
What kind of oil. But you all go on about what's cheapest. And do it yourself.
Personally, I would rather not. I have a shitty hill of a driveway and street in front of me. It's also not really worth my time when my boss pays for it anyway.

I just went to the dealership for my 5000 appt.
Guy said it was a tire rotation and multipoint inspection, with fluid check and top off.
After 2hrs, when truck still hasn't told me she started from where they parked her, they told I'd be about another 2 hrs. Sorry, I have shit to do, give me my truck back, don't care if in next in line.

So I will hit a 3rd party.
I'm Interested In best performance. I've heard pennzoil platinum ultimate is good, same guy called mobile 1 advanced "a mid-grade oil'

If its $30 more for the the best oil service, do I care?
Also I put 25-30k a year on her. I just leased this end of February

 

I use nothing but Amsoil Signature Series with OEM oil filters. If I dont feel like doing it myself, a shop charges me $30 for labor if I provide the materials.

 

I plan OEM filter and Mobil one extended protection

 

I prefer syrup

 

Yes this is the future!!!!

 

Another vote for the above for newish cars (<10 years old). For older, less valuable vehicles (ie beaters) I use just about any filter and wal-mart oil but change per manufacturer directions. Conventional if really old (3k mile oil changes), synthetic if 10-20 years old (5-10k miles).

 

Lease-to-own, or lease-to-turn-in?

If you're not going to keep it, just follow the requirements in the manual, and OEM filters usually aren't any more expensive, if that appeals to you.

I wouldn't go down any oil rabbit holes if the truck is just a commodity you'll return at end of lease.

 

A 25-30k per year lease?

 

Amsoil enjoys a cult like following. I had thought it was BS. I felt as long as oil was clean and slippery that it was mostly the same. Then I bought a new Honda S2000. The shifter would slip out of gear when the drive train was cold and I was on the highway. Took it to dealer under warranty and they couldn't reproduce my concern. Checked the forums and folks said to replace it with GM syncromesh fluid. So I did and the shifter never slipped out of gear again. But I was concerned tha the the GM syncromesh didn't meet Honda specs. So a year or two later Honda comes out with type 2 fluid, so I try it. Shifter starts slipping out of gear right away. No better than type one. Around the same time I see that Amsoil comes out with oil that does meet Honda spec so I switch to it and drivetrain runs better than ever. Smoother shifts and never slipped out of gear again.

 

I recently did my first oil change. I used OEM filter and Mobile1 Synthetic. According to The Car Care Nut on YT, Toyota oil for the Tundra is rebranded Mobile 1 synthetic.

 

I know for a fact that my local Toyota dealership uses Mobil one. I was at local oil distributor, they had 55 gallon drums with Toyota on them with Mobil one stickers on them. They were sitting in area with Mobil one products.


To answer your question. I do mine myself. I got one more change with Toyota. Do not know of another place I would trust locally.

 

I don’t even trust Toyota…

 

It's not my money. I was pushed into the lease because "we lease trucks here jim". The dealership only went up to 18 so my leasing agen extracted 20k out of them. I expect to Owe in the neighborhood of 10-15k x .15 per mile after 3years, $1500-2000.
Next triluck I am definitely financing and then outfitting to my expectations. Not enough no-drill option on accessory equipment. No dam stake pockets

 

It’s been discussed in great lengths over on the bob oil website that Toyota motor oil is manufactured by Mobil to Toyotas specs. It’s also been tested on PQIAs website as well. It’s not rebranded Mobil 1.

Oil analysis shows that it’s basically the same formulation as Mobil super synthetic with a huge dose of molybdenum.

 

Stick with oem stuff until the powertrain warranty is up. No reason to give them an excuse to deny your claim when your crank bearings decide to crap the bed, which seems to be the popular thing these days

That said, I am a huge fan of Fram Ultra filters. Every 3rd party test I have seen show them out flowing and out filtering anything else