Upgrading 2016 SR5 Crewmax audio, AMP questions

Ive just bought a Skar audio setup for my 2016 crewmax, NonJBL system. I have the factory head unit and factory amplifier underneath the passenger seat. I have 2 10s, a ported fitted box for behind the rear seats, and a 1200w monoblock amp coming in, all from Skar Audio. (will include links)
My question is,
1. do I need to remove the stock amp and replace it with my 1200w monoblock? Its my understanding that the head unit powers the dash speakers, and the factory amp powers the 4 door speakers.
2. Should I have bought a 4 or 5 channel instead of the monoblock? Upgrading the monoblock is still an option for me, as well as adding a second amplifier for the door speakers if necessary.
3. Can i run my factory amp for my stock door speakers while adding the 1200w monoblock for my 2 subs? Eventually i will upgrade the door and dash speakers and would like advice on whether I should run 2 amps or another single amp set up for all speakers and subs.

thank you for reading, and I apologize if these questions have been answered elsewhere, I’ve been looking around all day.

Amp: https://www.skaraudio.com/products/...n5sxXeYWBpW22TcJUat3DxOVftCgoYJRoCkgAQAvD_BwE

Subs: https://www.skaraudio.com/products/vd-10-inch-car-subwoofer

Box: https://www.skaraudio.com/products/...1fBw_tjdyCkhEkM1cPW6tqEAMg-HNA4hoCGL0QAvD_BwE

 

bump?

 

If you remove your factory amp and only place in your mono amp you would not have any sound out of your door speakers. Most people go with a 5 channel amp just for simplicity sake, but most (not all) 5 ch amps max out at around 500w to the sub channel. If thats not enough for you, then go with a separte 4 channel amp and a mono amp.
One thing that you are going to run into, is that your mono amp takes RCA inputs. You dont have that with the facory head unit or the amp you have chosen. You have 2 options (well, 3 really)

1) Line Out Converters
Get a Line Out Converter like a

$129 Audiocontrol LC7i 6-Channel Line Output Converter with AccuBASS

Audiocontrol LC7i, this takes your speaker level output and converts them to RCA. You also get the added benefit of some sound controls like fixing bass roll-off and all of your singnal would go through the LOC before it goes to your amp(s). The LC7i would basically replace your factory amp and you would give you 3 sets of rca outputs that you can easily plug into 2 amps.

You could also get a 2ch LOC that will only handle the Mono Amp and then use the high level input for a 4ch amp like in the Skar SK-M4004D (see the "Hi Input" ports in the pictures). One bad thing about doing a LOC to just the subs is that there could be a slight delay in the subs because its going through a signal processor and the other speakers aren't.

Now, there's a possibility that you could leave the factory amplifier in to power the doors, and just grab a 2ch LOC and grab signal from one of the speaker outputs between the head unit and the factory amp. Im not sure if you can just splice in a LOC before the factory amp and it will work. You'd have to do some research on that (i bet if you went to a car audio shop, they'd probably do it this way....might sound fine, might sound like crap)

This guy compared a few LOC's


2)return/pick a 5 chanel amp that has high level inputs or use a LOC
3)get a new head unit. This will solve all the problems, you will have 3 sets of rca ouptuts from the head unit and will give you the best sound possible.

If you end up powering the door speakers from something other then the factory amp, they are gonna get blown fast. They are cheap paper cones so plan on buying some speakers.

I dont have the part number (i bought mine from Tech12volt), but you can get a harness that will plug in to the factory amp connectors so that you dont have to cut up your wiring harness

You will also need to run power from your battery to the amp(s) make sure to go big on power/ground cables and make sure its Oxygen Free Copper (OFC) and not Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA). There are wire guage calculators, that you can use to figure out the correct size.

Let me know if you have any other questions. In all reality, plan on replacing everything. you will find that as you upgrade, you'll find the next weakest link until you replace everything....

 

So I had the exact OEM setup you do now in my 2016. I replaced the underseat amp with a JL Audio XD400/4 Component Amp and use an Alpine mono amp for the 2 subs.

 

did you just use the high level inputs on the amp or a LOC?

 

I have a PnP harness from TT and used that. No RCAs or LOC

 

Thank you for the very detailed response, I will definitely be planning on upgrading the door speakers and powering them with a new amp sometime soon.
My next question at the moment is, will I be able to run my Mono amp to my subs and keep the factory amp powering the door speakers as a temporary setup until I can buy new speakers and HU etc...
If i have too much trouble I may just take it to a local audio shop but I wanted to ask a few questions here first. Thanks for your time

 

You need to figure out how to get signal from before the factory amp to hook into your mono amp.

A shop will probably splice in a $15 loc and change you $150.

Edit: just did a quick Google search, sounds like you can splice in a LOC from one of the head unit outputs without interrupting a door speaker signal.
Watch that video I posted, there was one good/small/cheap loc....might have been kicker brand.
This is gonna be your best/cheapest option till you can replace everything.

 

Thank you for the help