General Supercharger Thread

My take is if someone is kind enough to share their wisdom, it is on me to do my research & base my decisions on the data I gather, if I fuck it up, that is on me & no one else.

my2cents.

 

I’m just trying to look out for the guys reading this thread like I was thinking, “man this supercharging things sounds like a pain in the ass, not worth it.” Point is, it doesn’t HAVE to be this difficult. We just have some next level tinkerers here apparently.

 

I'm open to any resolution that does not include pulling the tank (almost) I'm trying to achieve the goal of happy boost with a minimum of tinkering.

lol

 

two hydraulic floor jacks to lower and raise it more evenly. Place a couple of 4x4 blocks at either end of the tank for it to rest on after lowering. This gives enough room for my low profile 2.5ton jack to still slide under it. Put some plywood over the jack to distribute load.

What really sucks is getting the bolts back in to reinstall. Luckily they're self tapping bolts! I just got it as close as I could and went to town on it with the impact. Has worked 4 times now! lol

 

I completely agree! The pump that comes with the kits is totally fine if you don't want to upgrade. All the guys having issues are also running big injectors and looking to increase boost. Buy a kit and get a good tune and you're golden. If you want to push more power, then the conversation changes to what pump, injectors, pulley, intake, etc. etc. It can be as simple or complicated as you want, and that also tends to match up with how much power beyond the base supercharger do you want.

 

Is there a way to test the pump outside the truck? I really don't want to do all this, put it back together & find out it was the pump all along.

 

Just need a graduated container and a stop watch to see how fast you fill it, then math, and a method to read voltage so you can compare against manufacturer's numbers.

 

ViktorG had it all documented, but looks like those videos are no longer available, still good info in the posts though
https://www.tundras.com/threads/com...aluation-pumps-injectors-rails-etc-etc.81884/

 

Oh no. He just posted recently too. Hope he is ok.

 

Like Viktor's test on the SC coolant pump?

How does that take into account the added stress from high RPM draw? That is when my issue occurs so I think it' safe to say it works up to 5200 rpm when I am losing flow.

Thanks

 

Wow! He took it all down.

 

Odd, all of the vids on his site are gone/set to private. I had just seen recent vids too. Echo i hope everything's ok.

 

I don't know of a way to account for the RPM fluctuation, other than maybe changing the FPR to account for max boost maybe, the steps I listed were to validate pump health vs manufacturer specs.

 

I've got screenshots of his pump test results buried in this thread

 

Wow, he was posting Lexus how-to's regularly, now it's all gone, probably something legal...

 

Yes. That possibility makes more sense now.

 

I have had 3 (including oem) FPRs all had the same behavior so I'd think it's not that. To test, I have a T fitting and barbs coming tomorrow to bypass the FPR & see the pressure but won't be able to do anything possibly until Friday as the truck is going to the dealer for camshaft seal & upper & lower control arm bushing replacement under expiring extended warranty.

 

When my pressure issue started I asked him via email and he kindly said I'm out & won't be doing Tundra/mechanic work going forward.

 

I didn't mean swap out the FPR, I meant to adjust the base pressure to account for boost (i.e. if you get 6lbs of boost and base pressure is 60, set base to 66 for testing flow at "boost" while monitoring voltage)

Or better yet, If you have an air compressor and a reliable regulator, you could try connecting that to the FPR vacuum fitting to simulate boost and monitor the results.

 

On the two aftermarket, I set the pressure to 58 (as high as they would go eventually) starting at 50, with no vacuum, then turned it off, connected the vacuum to boost & never see any additional pressure at boost, to the contrary it has gone down as far as 30lbs, currently about 40.

I have a compressor, I will try when I get the truck back as I have the oem back on because I did not want any bs from Toyota over the hoses between the fuel lines & FPR.

 

That Aeromotive unit you bought goes higher than 58, this is from the manual:
Base Adjustment Range: 35-75 PSI
Boost Reference Range: Limited only by pump capability.
Max Fuel Flow Range: Up to 150 GPH (900 lb/hr or 550 LPH)

 

This is exactly where I am at this point. After digesting all of pages/threads I’m left thinking that stock supercharger setup is the only way to stay reliable.

I would love to have more power, essentially only going as far as a 2.3 pulley, as to stay near the 600 crank rule, but not sure what pump/injectors will cover that? Is anyone at a 2.3 pulley (at sea level) that is daily driven reliable without pump issues or trouble with tuning? What pump is drop in with no issues that covers this level, do I need 750cc injectors?

 

I have the base 85mm pulley on the Harrop, but have the ProSpeed intake, larger RCF throttle body, and Longtube headers. The fuel delivery wasn't keeping up at higher RPMs when I was at the dyno. This was with ProSpeed's upgraded lines, fuel rails, 750cc injectors, and a Walbro 450 in stock fuel basket that had additional holes drilled for better flow. Pump was connected via PTFE tube with Oetiker clamps and pump wiring was crimped to stock basket wiring with open barrel crimps that were heatshrinked. No leaks, no loose connections, upgraded everything the fuel flows through except the fuel basket top hat connections, fuel PSI dropping at higher RPMs, engine leaning out.

My intake, TB and headers allow for more air flow through the heads, which necessitates more fuel, but I haven't even started upgrading pulleys yet. I would rather have overhead everywhere I can, than be on the ragged edge of what a component is capable of. I'm already on the ragged edge of the stock pistons and rods...

 

Yup, barely squeaked to 60 maxed out in my system & fell off at boost.

Does that indicate pump or voltage (or both & unknown if also pump)??

 

Was base pressure set with the vacuum port open to atmosphere? It should run at higher than 60 if cranked down...I tested mine for leaks at 80

 

LTH Redux. Yay or Nay?

 

I have "set" it at 50, and 58 (as high as it went), unfortunately, there has been no change in the behavior. At idle it sat at 50 & went down under 40, at 58, it went to about 40

Keith @ Dirty Deeds said no, I have a set of Doug Thorley headers I'm not using in the marketplace

 

I've read on this site that installing longtubes leans out the motor, but also that longtubes and dual 3" was the best setup for a supercharger. I would do it again...but would buy ARH first instead of the JBAs. I've got another exhaust on the way, Dirty Deeds race dual...once that gets here I'll go back for a follow-up tune and see what it looks like, probably late May, early June.

It's not a bad thing, I enjoy this kind of work and the problem solving associated with it. I'm not trying to scare anyone off, just sharing from my experiences.

For all newcomers:
Welcome...and all of my problems are self-inflicted, and are in no way indicative of a "normal" person's expectations of boosting their Tundra.

 

I have/will again go with LTH eventually. I've always read the same things about them. They give more HP and less boost at same RPM's. In my mind, that means less stress on internals for more HP(?), more airflow in should require more airflow out

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1705-headers-vs-exhaust-manifold-supercharger-ls-engine-dyno-test/

Conclusion:

Run with the headers, the Mast-headed, Kenne Bell-supercharged 427 produced 861 hp (at 6,600 rpm) and 714 lb-ft of torque. A peek at the dyno graph will reveal we revved the header combo 200 rpm higher (where it produced 872 hp), but even at the same 6,600 rpm, the headers offered 20 hp. The peak boost registered at 6,600 rpm dropped slightly with the headers from 7.9 psi to 7.7 psi. It is obvious from the results that headers improve power on naturally aspirated and supercharged combinations.

The pulse tuning offered by the headers was present regardless of the presence of positive pressure in the intake tract. The same is true of intake manifolds, as long-runner intakes still offer pulse tuning under boost. Tested on this Kenne Bell-supercharged LSX, the headers improved the power output from 841 hp and 709 lb-ft of torque to 861 hp (872 at 6,800 rpm) and 714 lb-ft of torque. Truth be told, the lack of runner length in the Kenne Bell lower intake probably had as much of an effect on the outcome of the header test as the presence of boost, but the blown stroker still worked best with the long-tube headers.

 

They look nice:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/new-5-7-doug-thorley-long-tube-headers.119366/