Pulled interior, now ABS & Check Engine lights on & speedometer not working

And here we go...

Working a bunch of things through the truck as I install an amp/sub/speakers and wiring. Pulled the entire interior including all seats, console, almost all trim, carpets, and door panels. No engine/tranny/dash lights issue prior to getting started. Battery was disconnected for 3 or 4 days while I was working on things.

Laid a bunch of dynamat type sound deadening in the doors and on part of the floor. Swapped all the bulbs in the center console/dash area for climate controls, hazards, 4wd, cargo lamp, etc to LED's. Not very close to finishing so I connected the battery and threw the drivers seat in and drove to work... ABS and check engine light on, speedometer not working, and mileage not registering. Seems to be driving fine.

Thought it could be related to the passenger seat harness initially.... threw in the passenger seat and plugged in everything (i think) and no progress. I *THINK* I have all of the important stuff plugged back in but I also have nearly no clue what I'm doing... so I'm here!



It seems unlikely, but these two plugs are not connected and I'm not sure if they should be - I can't find anything in my pile of pieces that would plug in. The passenger side seat harness has three clips plugged in and there is one more plug that is taped to the harness that I do not believe was ever connected (near the bottom right arrow). The upper arrow sits under the little mat area of the center console and I don't think was connected to anything, but I could be wrong. I even tried plugging in all of the 12v plugs just in case.

Way beyond my depth of my knowledge and I don't know where to start looking but I'm guessing it's one of two things.
1: Something really simple and obvious that I haven't reconnected
2: I broke something important and expensive

Cheap-o bluetooth code scanner is showing these codes:
P0453 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch high
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor "A"

Thanks for any input or ideas

 

I think @empty_lord had this issue? But if your clock isn’t plugged in, other things won’t work. This is way from left field, but everything needs to be plugged in

 

If you don't remove the negative battery cable for at least 5-10 minutes any time you unplug something tied to airbags (like seats with airbag sensors, steering wheel), and don't reconnect until after everything is reattached, you risk taking an airbag to the face, and setting SRS codes that can't be cleared using a standard scanner.

If you don't completely reinstall the center dash, with all plugs firmly plugged into the back, the radio won't work, clock won't work, and other potentially stupid shit happens.

 

clock only kills the radio.. havent had the issues hes describing.. good chance theres a ground that may of been messed with thats causing all the issue

 

were not going to talk about the fact that i as a professional dont undo the battery for airbag stuff



dont do as i do

 

Thanks everyone for the input. I did have the battery disconnected until I was prepping to the driver's seat back in. Driver's seat and main center dash was all plugged in (clock, climate control, all the buttons in center dash, etc), then the battery was connected. Passenger seat harness, headunit for the radio, 12v charging ports, speakers were all not plugged in.

Looks like it's throwing these codes:
P0453 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch high
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor "A"

I'll start trying to read up on the codes and figure out what to do at this point.

 

P0500 is often wheel speed sensor, but can be an issue with the cluster.

P0453 ... that's an EVAP code. Not sure why you'd be getting that, but maybe I'm missing something.

You didn't tighten a bolt over a harness, or run a screw down thru something with the door sills or something?

 

I don't believe I did. I haven't put a whole lot back together. Driver (and now passenger) seat reinstalled with those 4 bolts... door sills, trim, even the center console with the clock isn't bolted in. I did drill 3 holes for a stealth box where the center console storage is, but I just checked and I don't see anything it could have hit. There's a lot of dynamat down on the floor pan now... but I'm pretty particular. I tried to pay attention to every hole and drain plug and either not cover them or mark them.

If I didn't mention it, it's not tracking mileage either - I'm assuming that's tied in with the speedometer.

I do have an old alarm that hasn't caused any issues yet (I've had the truck around a year a half) - but I suppose it's worth mentioning. The area where my thumb is has two fuses in fuse holders (15 + 5) and I caught it in the door jam at one point... bent the fuses a little bit but they both seemed secure and intact. I swapped the fuses just in case. Alarm works fine, starts up fine, just the lights/codes/speedometer.


I'm really confident that the plug wasn't connected to anything and you can see some of the alarm wiring in the kick panel area (and the relay that is wired into the driver's door) - but it's also worth mentioning.

I can't think of anything I messed with besides disconnecting basic connectors for the interior trim panels & console, LED swapping the center lights, and unplugging the seats. I've moved some harnesses around and pulled the plastic connectors that hold them in place, but nothing harsh or aggressive. Under the hood, all I did was disconnect the battery and feel around the grommet area to plan out an area to run the power wire for the amp. I pulled off the passenger side rear view mirror at one point but rebolted it and resecured the connector prior to reconnecting the battery.

All that being said, I did plug the battery back in and drive it with the passenger seat removed and the 3 plugs under the seat disconnected - which I believe ties in to the airbag system.

 

Your passenger seat being unplugged will cause an SRS light. Having an 05 your speedo and mileage work off of the wheel speed sensors, so that's kinda odd. Where did you run your battery cable through the firewall?

Oh, and did you knock any hoses off of that box by the brake booster? It's emissions related.

 

P0453 is a curve ball but P0500 is plausible if certain items below are found....fuse, connection, etc.

While not enough info leads me their, I'll ask anyway. At anytime did you work on the Instrument Cluster(Combination Meter) area and if so, I would re-check that all it's connectors are plugged in securely.

Would suspect 15A Gauge fuse since some items were listed that are affected if blown(ABS, Speed, ODO) but not enough to confirm in case you left out a few items....gear selection indicator, cruise indicator....etc found in pic below.




There is a lot going on in the pic below. Certain items you mentioned come to that junction area, especially ABS input.
How far up did you place the dynamat ?
Upper right corner with butt connectors and questionable additions, I would make sure I did not bump something in that area if their was hand action going on while adding dynamat.

 

Not only that, but all of those shit-ass T-Tap/Scotchlocks, those things mangle wiring and can cause all kinds of stupidity.

I also see whoever installed the alarm threw relays on the door locks/windows, as you can see in OP's pic with the door card off, so they got into things pretty deep during install and hacked into multiple systems to support alarm add-on functions. I'd yank that f'er, but that's just me (@OP, I used to work at an audio/alarm/tint shop bitd, I'm pretty harsh about aftermarket alarms)

But it's all speculation at this point. I think @BubbaW has a better line of sight than me on this one. My eyeball for electrical stuff is more farsighted than his.

@rgkharrison what brand/make/model of alarm is it, based on the brain? Got a part number?

 

Deja vu....

It was back in Dec but alarm relay was discussed in a prior thread @rgkharrison created. See no mention of what alarm mfg he may have found.

Any guesses what this relay is for? | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Damn. And I responded to it mentioning the same thing there.

This goes to show you how much my brain has gone to shit.

 

I haven't run the battery cable through the firewall yet - or installed any of the new speakers/wiring. Just pulled a bunch of stuff, laid some dynamat, swapped the LED's in the center dash area.

Don't think I knocked any hoses off but I'll go check.

Definitely a possibility at this point. I don't have any info about the alarm but I'll go down in a few and start trying to figure it out. My plan was to get the basics done that I felt comfortable with and take to the truck to someone to tune the amp and pull the alarm before I put the carpet back in.... but apparently even that was too much for me My thought process was that I didn't want to touch it at all because I was worried about these issues. Still feels weird that it would be causing these issues considering how much effort I put into not messing with that area, but you guys definitely know more about this stuff than I do.

Got enough from that thread that I wasn't comfortable removing it on my own. The hope was to have it removed by someone with knowledge/experience and tune the amp after I did some of the basic labor of laying dynamat and running speak wire.... I felt comfortable with the concept but doesn't look like that is working out at this point.

Thanks again for all the input and thoughts.

 

Did not pull the instrument cluster or mess with any of the connectors behind, above, or below the steering wheel - I did do door panels, kick panels, trim (door sills, etc), center console and center dash w/ clock, climate control, etc.

Dynamat is up pretty far towards the firewall behind the pedals but not far enough that I think I bumped into anything. I'll add double checking that area with all the sketchy connections to the things I'm going to go check on and try.

Thanks again.

 

And an update:

Brother in law came over last night with more of a legit scanner and was able to pull some ABS specific codes. C0210 (rear speed sensor RH circuit) and C0215 (rear speed sensor LH circuit). That seemed pretty helpful and I figured it would give me a more specific place to search for damaged or disconnected wires. He was able to clear all of the codes with the scanner...

Decided to turn it on with all the codes reset to see if they would retrigger. They didn't seem to come back on and the speedometer & odometer were now working.

I wasn't able to find any other wires, connectors, or fuses that were damaged, blown, or disconnected and I didn't change anything beyond resetting the codes. I looked around the area where the alarm wiring is but couldn't find anything that looked like the main unit so I still have no clue about the brand or model. I'm hesitant to dig around too much in that area or start yanking on wires because I don't want to create more issues.

Drove the truck to work and back and none of the issues have reappeared so far. I'm guessing that driving it without the passenger seat airbag harness connected caused some of the issues and that the speedometer wasn't working as part of the P0500 (speed sensor) code. The codes are weird, and it seems crazy to me that a tripped code would disable the speedometer/odometer, but maybe it's just part of how the alarm is wired into all kinds of things.

Hoping it stays running without any of these issues and I can get the alarm pulled by someone who knows how to do it before anything else pops up. I'll also wont be driving it without the underseat harnesses plugged in anymore