High mileage maintenance

Hi fellow Tundra owners! I’m Josh. I have a 2007 Tundra 5.7 that I bought used over 6 years ago. It has over 244k miles on it and still runs strong and been meticulously maintained its whole life. I recently did a suspension overhaul.What are some things that I should be looking to replace as I get closer to 300k in the near future?

Here are things that I do/have done
•oil change (normally before the 5k with full synthetic)
•I change the other fluids regularly (I opt to change the coolant every 2 years or 30k miles since the water pumps tend to fail for some reason, I only replaced the water pump once)
•I get a transmission drain and fill every so often (once a year at the least, no longer get fluid exchanges)
•Secondary air injection pump/valve replaced twice (unfortunately)
•Replace brakes, filters as needed
•MAF cleaning
•I always get my pcv valve changed every 30k
•fuel injection service

I probably need to get my catalytic converter replaced eventually.

 

Bruh, you've done more maintenance than I have in my 07 with 270k. You're on a good track to making it last. Most peeps would say if it aint broke, don't fix it.
My water pump burst about 5k miles ago, and its my 2nd, and my starter went at 213k. Original cats, but its mostly a Cali truck.

 

I wonder why the water pumps seem to fail often. I’m surprised mine haven’t failed again. I probably going to be looking at getting the starter replaced as well.

 

I don't think they fail often. My 1st one burst at like 25k more or less, so it was replaced under warranty. This last one just gave out at 265k so it lasted about 240k miles. Bearing failed on it.

 

Hi Josh,

Sounds like you are on the right track with your '07 doing the maintenance. I've had an '07 LBDC I purchased in '08 with 4,200 miles on it and have right at 370,000 miles on it today and still going strong. I too do the routine maintenance and can share my experience to date.

Replaced plugs every 125K, coming up on that soon. Transmission, front and rear diff, transfer case service every 150K at the dealership although I do everything but the transmission myself now. Antifreeze replaced every 125K.

I did have a water pump fail (very small leak) at 49K and the dealership replaced it under warranty. At the same time, I was experiencing the common cyclic growling noise that is associated with the front diff when not in 4WD. There are plenty of threads on that in this forum. At the time, there was a service bullitin to address the issue and the dealership rebuilt the diff under warranty and did a fantastic job, no leaks, no issues until around 300K, it came back. The problem as I understand was in trucks from '07 to early '09, so I replaced the diff with one from a 2010 and have had no issue. Had I researched a little farther, I would have gone with a sleeve kit from East Coast Gear that replaces the problem bearing instead of replacing the entire front diff.

I had to replace my air injection pump valve around 200K. They were back ordered at the dealership at the time but I got one from Car ID that turned out to be Toyota/Lexus OEM. At the same time, I upgraded to the revised OEM air inlet tube ($26 on Ebay) for the pumps which is located inside the right front fender. The revision has the addition of a snorkel to prevent water from entering the air inlet. I've not had any trouble since. I did the work myself in a day and replaced the radiator which was leaking with a Denso I ordered from Amazon for $110. The packaging was pretty weak, but it somehow arrived with no damage and is all good to this day. I replaced the water pump out of prevention at this time as well. I have another new OEM water pump to go on when I get around to it although this one with around 170K is fine.

I replaced the starter at around 250K after it made a "fishy" noise on a cold start. I ordered the replacement OEM and replaced it at the end of the week with no more issues out of the old one. I will say that the job was a SOB. IF you do it, you don't have to lift the PS engine from it's mount nor remove the exhaust manifold IF you have a front diff drop kit which tilts the front of the diff down for small front end lifts (like the Bilstein shocks) and gives you JUST enough room to get the starter out. ALSO, if you change the starter, GET NEW BOLTS FOR THE HEAT SHIELDS, and I strongly recommend getting new heat shields as well. The 10mm hex heads shrink from rust and make it difficult to keep a wrench on them. Pretty much have to bend the heat sheilds a bit to get them out and back in.

I also replaced the alternator out of good measure with a new OEM around 300K. That job too was a SOB, but still worth not risking a failure on the road.

Let's see, I think the cooling fan mount was the last thing I replaced somewhere around 350K after the bearings got noisy. That would have been a decent job except for one bolt that they just had to bury under a rigid steel line for the power steering. A little bit of rage bent the line just enough to get a socket on the problem bolt. I replaced that bolt with an allen socket head cap screw to make it easier the next time (as long as the socket doesn't fill with rust!).

I did do the Sequoia transfer case swap, which is so well documented by ViktorG, Wynnded and some others. Just reading the post sets the hook in the mouth, but once you do it, man what a ride! AWD is pretty dang awsome not only on wet or slick roads, but even dry pavement. The truck handles corners and city driving so much better!

38 gallon fuel tank swap is next. I've had the third cross member to do it for two years and finally found a tank on Ebay for $164 (local pick up only 1-1/2 hours away) which is a fantastic and rare deal. This swap is also well documented in a forum.

The last thing to note is a problem with my driver side catalytic convertor. I just started a separate post on that this evening so I won't get into details on that other than to say this will be the fourth one on the same side, so I think there is an issue upstream, I just don't know what. You mentioned replacing your cats. Go with Magnaflow if you do, and wait on them if they are back ordered. I ordered both sides when my first one failed, received the PS, but DS was back ordered for a month. I opted to get another brand, Eaton I think, until I set those beside the one Magnaflow I had. The Magnaflows had very nice mandrel bent tubes with no crimps or crushed bends and the other brand were visibly far inferior with obvious restrictions. I sent the others back and waited for the other Magnaflow to arrive. After installing them, I got a solid 3/4 MPG improvement plus more power. They will pay for themselves.

Hope this helps. Give me a shout with any questions, I'm glad to help.