Timing Chain replacement on 5.7L at 276k?

@Westerntowboss I tried two other reputable small local shops, and neither of them wanted to do the job (too many hours, didn't want to tie up their bays). So the dealer was the best option in my area.

 

So my 2016 sequoia pulled the same code, p0014 about a year ago. I replaced the solenoid about 6 months ago, cel just keeps going on and off every few days. I've had the truck since 52k miles, ligh started coming on around 65k and currently has 82k. Truck was one owner prior to me and had perfect service history, oil changed every 6k. I do all my changes every 6k using amsoil 0w20 and wix filter. Had oil tested on my first change and results showed the motor was in perfect health. So I've been driving with this code for over a year, car runs perfect, no chain noise, no loss in mileage or power, no hesitation or hard starting, just runs absolutely perfectly. I've seen a post before in my previous research with your result. I took my car in yesterday to replace a wheel bearing and to try and resolve this code and the timing chain was the same answer they gave me. Only they won't replace chain because they said it was an engine out procedure, which sounded weird to me. Just pissed that I'm doing this at 82k, but given that the car runs perfectly, part of me still thinks it's not the timing chain. That its either oil pressure or there's some debris in the screen going to the solenoid. Any thoughts? I've got a zr11 scan tool from Harbor freight, was thinking of checking the oil pressure and timing readings if it's capable of doing that.

 

Probably not a popular opinion, but why not try something like BG EPR? BG seems to have a good reputation. I haven't tried it myself, but I did just order some EPR and MOA off of eBay and I am going to try it in the next week or two. I've got, what I think is, some timing chain rattle. Based on what I found, you'd need two cans.

I have no affiliation with BG products.

 

Thanks I'll check it out! Once I get the truck back im going to do an oil pressure test at the head to make sure it's getting enough pressure. Also going to stick a bore scope into the cam solenoid hole to see if there's any debris stuck to the screen filter. Then going to test the wire connector to the solenoid to make sure there's no break or short somewhere. If that checks out then may switch back to oem oil filter and see if that does anything, maybe the wix filter is causing a slight drop in pressure. If it's not the timing chain then it's either electrical or oil pressure related which could be just low pressure or a blocked passage some where. But if all that checks out, then might just be the damn chain. That part is just a little frustrating though because I've been driving the thing for over a year like this, no loss of power, no loss of mileage, no noise at all coming from the chain, nothing, drives perfect.

 

If you need to get pressure up - have you tried moving off 0w?

 

No but I'll Def try it since I'm do for a change anyways. I'm going to call around town this week, need to find a shop that has a 4 channel oscilloscope so that I can actually check timing as that will tell me 100% what the issue is. The code is for OVER advanced timing on exhaust cam, from what I'm reading, under advanced or retarded timing can result from worn guides, tensioner or stretched chain. Basically the slack causes the cam to fall behind in timing. Over advanced generally is not a chain issue, but could be a jumped tooth or the phaser is physically stuck in an over advanced position, or a bad solenoid, faulty cam sensor or wiring, or low oil pressure. If it's a jumped tooth or phaser then your still basically doing the chain. It's hard to find data on this but I've seen on a few cars that one cam tooth equates to about 10 degrees of timing. I imagine you would feel that in someway driving around. If the phaser itself is seized and its only a degree or two off, you might not feel that. Again the car runs like a sowing machine so if it is off, it can't be off much so my thinking is its either a seized phaser that's just barely off timing or its an electrical/sensor/oil pressure issue. So, I'll report back once I'm able to get timing checked...

 

Any update ?

I would try the 505 cro ... before cracking valve covers open, not to mention all the parts to takeoff just to get there.

505 FUEL & OIL POUR-IN TREATMENT - ATS Chemical (atschemicals.com)

 

Tundra Timing chain problems - root cause - YouTube

 

Dan in the video has taken the same time of 5 dys like the yota shop, thats commendable, at 0.22-0.28 clearly gives audible difference of the chain slap noise. Good video.