Replacing terrible lift

Hey guys,

Totally new here and just got an 07 sr5 double cab.

Looking to undo this shitty suspension on my 07.

Currently has a 6in no name lift

Looking to downgrade to 3.5in lift. I’m trying to stay in the 2k range if possible.. now I have a few questions as I am not super knowledgeable in regards to suspension.

1) this 6in lift has UCAs replaced with some aftermarket ones. They don’t look bad per se but they are probably not the best solution. Do I need to change them when dropping this lift?

2) I am looking to get new tires and wheels when I redo this suspension, currently has 35x12.5xr20. Should I stick with 35x12.5 or go down to 33? Is 12.5 too wide? I am going with an 18in wheel. Right now my tires stick out significantly but I believe that’s just the offset on the wheels.

Thanks guys and gals

 

Pics of the lift front and back would help us help you. Every lift company I know plasters their name all over everything. If it’s truly a 6” lift, you’ve got your work cut out for you. No pun intended.

 

https://imgur.com/a/UaaSFsf

 

Yikes double stacking spacers on that one.



any pics of the front bracket? Not that it matters. In order to revert to stock, you need a new front subframe crossmember with the original mourning brackets on it. The ones they had to cut off to add that bracket. The rear is just a block, so you could pull the block and go shackles or leafs or a combo of both depending on your goals.

 

Yeah I know it’s awful

here is some photos

basically the goal is good around town with the ability to handle moderate trails and camping. Truck only has 133k on it right now and I have a company vehicle. Bought it as a project truck to be a fun camping, hunting, road trip truck.

https://imgur.com/a/sV6mzuj

 

See above post, it is terrible isn’t it??

 

One way forward is a set of longer coilovers in the front and keep the lift hardware. Replace the block in the back with new leafs.

 

You might consider simply getting better shocks on front that are meant for a 6" kit. Then at rear remove blocks and do add-a-leaf plus shackle and new shocks. Would keep you at 6 inch but a lot less work and an improved ride quality for your money

 

I really wanted to go to 3.5in, but you think it may not be worth the headache?

 

Depends on how handy you are, or if you’re paying someone else to do all the work. Parts to revert won’t be cheap and likely require some welding, but like, good welding. Then the cost of the new 3.5” lift parts.

https://parts.longotoyota.com/v-201...5-7l-v8-gas/body--crossmembers-and-components

 

what would be your recommendation?

 

Headache and money.

If it were mine, i'd just do new shocks/springs on the 6" kit.
To do 3.5 now you still have to buy shocks & springs but also add UCAs plus the frame repairs where original bits were cut.

 

I really hate to recommend anything rough country, but they make 6” coilovers for a lift like this.

https://www.roughcountry.com/premium-n3-lifted-struts-500017.html

 

Honestly, just getting those and matching rear shocks might smooth out the ride well enough. Least work and money option right there.

 

I also need to replace bushings as well, those leaf springs that are currently on there look beat to shit too so I wanted to replace those. Idk how I feel about the blocks under but at 6in is it my only option?

 

You've probably gotta cut crossmember up front too.... that will need to be patched correctly as once you remove the lift component, the crossmember will be the main support again.

 

For rear, you could get leafspring set for 2-3 inches of lift then pair with shackles for the extra 1-3 inches. A custom leafspring set from Deaver might be able to work too.

 

i really don’t want rough country but I don’t see anything else for 2nd gen 6in lift

 

I totally missed this response. Shit… i am mechanically inclined but I can’t weld for shit. So I think I’m stuck with this 6in lift.


I was really concerned about being too heavy on a trail, other than that I think this truck looks good with a 6in lift.. but I’m trying to think of practicality and function more than anything

 

some people have a good experience with their higher end stuff.
Another option is keep the upper spacer and get a new 3” or so coilover to replace that old KYB and middle spacer.
Another money saving option may be to do the 3.5” lift conversion and keep all of the 6” lift components to resell to someone wanting a kit like that. The 3.5” lift will also require original spindles to replace the extended ones in that kit. $$$$

 

I was just kind of checking out some of the higher end stuff from them.. I’m not going to be doing any crazy rock crawling. Just moderate trails so maybe it will suffice. I’m not sure id want to sell this terrible kit to anyone lol. Plus I’m not sure that this truck is worth $5k just in rigging suspension let alone the other mods I want to do. Luckily I have some time to do more research as I plan on buyin parts at end of next month.


I really appreciate your guys’ help! You all are awesome

 

Just to be clear, they’re higher end stuff isn’t high end stuff. But they have some super budget stuff, and what looks like nicer stuff, but still budget compared to the true high end quality stuff like Fox or King or even Bilstein.

 

Oh yes I’m totally aware of Rough country, I really do not want to go that route. But like I said my budget for suspension is around 2-3k and doesn’t sound like that is really gonna happen if I go down to the 3.5 in I wanted to go with

 

@jbradley702 you may want to inquire as to whether or not the previous owner got the speedometer recalibrated. If they didn't, then your odometer is off as well and it'll have a bit more mileage than advertised.

 

I can say confidently they did not

 

Do you know about what mileage they added the lift and bigger tires? With that info you could get the true mileage by increasing it by the same % as the big tire circumference over stock circumference.

 

Unfortunately I do not.

 

Well, once you get the lift sorted and settle on your tire size I would suggest getting the speedo calibrated so you can be accurate with speed and maintenance intervals moving forward. Tundras are tough, so even if they stretched the OCI you are probably still just fine.