Let’s see pics stock height Pro with 295/70r18

I believe TRD does have some upgraded HD brake calipers in red...

Quick search produced these.. I know they are for 2013-2017 Tundra/Sequoia, but I've seen similar TRD calipers for FJs, etc.. I believe these may be larger than the OE and have some clearance issues based on the wheels offset, etc... They are also meant to be ran with upgraded drilled rotors ($300/ea); calipers look to be around $850/ea...

Left Caliper Assembly https://www.oemgenuineparts.com/oem...ptr0934074?c=bD0yJm49RHluYW1pYyBTRU8gUGFnZQ==

Right Caliper Assembly https://www.oemgenuineparts.com/oem...ptr0934075?c=bD0zJm49RHluYW1pYyBTRU8gUGFnZQ==


If I remember right, I believe this setup was also sold as a kit by TRD for around $3k. But, you'll have to see if you can find something that will work w/the 2018-2021s...

 

3K. OUCH.

 

I would think twice about putting wheel spacers on a stock suspension daily driver without seeking expert guidance. Most are simply doing it for looks instead of performance. I would talk to someone who actually understands suspension geometry and/or designs suspension lifts to get their opinion.

I’m not a suspension expert but I was a ASE certified tech (brakes, suspension & steering, engine repair, hvac, etc) for over 10 years so I know a little more than an average Joe. I caution against wheel spacers because they increase the scrub radius angle of a vehicle and can have a negative effect on bump steer, braking, stability, not to mention the stress it puts on things like wheel bearings, tie rods, ball joints, etc. The larger tires are already doing this without wheel spacers, they just amplify it. Just want to give you some of the facts before making your decision, but again, talk to someone more knowledgeable than me.

 

I have a set of those calipers sittin on the work bench.

 

Yeah... I can think of better ways to spend 3k

 

I’m about to drop $3k on a set of pro wheels and 295s next weekend

I’ll paint the calipers red lol

 

The caliper covers?

 

Back dudes after a long hiatus. (Deployments and things)

Added 295 Wildpeaks to my truck and CB bumper shims to create more space. No lift yet but planning on getting my Westcott kit and CB shackles installed soon.

 

Your points are valid, but it's no different than using wheels with less offset... which all the aftermarket wheels are. Typical stock is +60 and a 1" spacer makes it 35mm, and a 1.25" is 28mm. It's hard to find an aftermarket wheel with more than 25mm offset, so the spacer is actually better.

 

Which is why you should also think twice before blindly changing anything on your vehicle without knowing the repercussions, even something as simple as wheels. If you seek out professional/expert advice, well research the topic and accept the negatives of what comes with the changes you’re making, that’s perfectly fine. However, if you don’t know what you’re doing and have absolutely no understanding of suspension geometry and alignment angles, it’s best to leave the vehicle stock. I spend a lot of time in the firearms world so I relate it to the same reason why all the Gucci Glocks at the range have reliability issues but the bone stock ones just run and run and run. Everyone wants that new blinged out part but don’t understand what they’re changing then blame the manufacturer when something goes wrong.

 

So how do I get rid of the rubbing? It’s so annoying not knowing exactly where to stop turning the wheel. I’ve been doing fine I suppose, just a lot of three point turns in parking lots. They rub just a tiny bit

 

First you have to figure out where it’s rubbing. Mine didn’t rub at all when I had the same exact set up so it’s probably minor.

 

Make it rub, stop, look for where it's touching. Address that spot. With the tires and rims you have it will be very minor.

 

This. Sometimes it’s good enough to take a heat gun to the liners. For me, I had to move the bumper forward and even then I still get minor rub on the body mount which I plan to address pretty soon.

 

What tires and rim specs? If you have enough room in the front, you can increase the caster (moves the wheels forward) to get you some BM clearance.

Oh you said above 295s... but your rims must be sticking out pretty far if you are rubbing.

 

Yeah man I bought the truck and it came with Method 309s with a 0 offset. I’m not too much of a fan of them but it’s what I got.

 

My tires are 30mm wider (15mm further out) and about 2mm greater in radius, but I have 25mm more offset (+25)... so yours are a little bigger challenge.

I cut my body mount first thing (just chopped off the offending piece, didn't weld anything on), but now that I've spaced the bumper out, and moved the plastic liner forward, and also maxed out the caster... I think I could have left the body mount alone.

 

FYI, while this may work, it will make your steering feel heavier and slow to respond after a turn. You would be better served with new UCA if you’re planning on to try and make caster adjustments as a band aid for rubbing. You sure it’s rubbing on the cab mount and not the fender liner?

 

It handles great! The Tundra's steering is way too light normally. Anybody with a 2" lift won't be outside the range by maxing caster anyway. An aftermarket UCA moves the upper pivot in and back which makes the tire more likely to rub the BM.

 

Interesting. I might do some research and play around with this.

I have a Westcott lift and CB +3 shackles sitting in my garage right now just waiting to get thrown on. Haven’t had time to do it or get it done. I based off of what I’m seeing right now with the rubbing I think it will help once I get the parts thrown on.

Also have the CB steering kit too. Just sitting on too many parts lol.

 

I definitely wouldn't lift a Pro. The lift it has is about ideal... meaning it's about as large as you can go without screwing up the IFS too much. It's all negative tradeoffs and $$$ just to look a little more lifted if you go up from there. I know opinions differ but I think with the tire size you have, more lift will look kinda funky. You gotta satisfy yourself of course! You will need UCAs and probably a BMC then. Extended bumpstops front and rear should be used also.

In most driving a lift will help your fore-aft clearance, but if you want it to not ever rub when turning and hitting bumps simultaneously, you'll have to the do the same things to make clearance regardless.

One other thing; you said you spaced the bumper... did you also move the liner forward? There are screws under the front that hold it in position. You can take those out, drill new holes further back on the liner, push the liner forward, and reinstall the screws. Makes a difference... half inch or less? ... can't recall exactly.

 

Yeah I put on some CB shims for the bumper and moved the liner slightly forward. As for the BMC, yeah tracking I’m probably going to have to do that as well as get new UCAs.

I’ve wanted to lift it since I got it and all the photos I’ve seen of dudes who did Westcott/CB Shackle combos look awesome.

This truck is kinda my forever truck so whatever I do to it I intend on keeping it. Don’t really mind if it stays a perpetual WIP.

 

I think 37s on 2" lifts look the most awesomest!

 

Got these installed today. 295/70/18 Wildpeaks. Slight rubbing on the sway bar. I’ll get better pics tomorrow of the upper control arm and the actual rub spot for those interested.

TRD Sport front sway bar. Everything else is stock.

 

All these pics of 295/70 look awesome, it really has me wanting to go that route but I really don’t want to sacrifice snow traction with a wider tire. Decisions, decisions.

How’s the hit to low end torque after putting these larger tires on? I’m installing a LSD in a couple months and wondering if I should just bite the bullet and go with 4.88’s to correct the reduction in final drive ratio.

 

Not a pro but I installed the Falken wildpeak at3w 295/70/18 on stock trd off road 18 inch rims with bilstein 6112 on 1.9 setting. Only rubbed the front mud-flaps at full lock in reverse so I removed them.

 

Full lock left and right. No rubbing on the sway bars. When I test fit them at the tire shop, it was rubbing. Clear of the upper control arms.

Nasty salt on the road. She’s due for a quick rinse.

 

Looks bad A$$!

 

Guess I can join the 295/70 club
Toyo’s ATIII

 

Would a sway bar drop bracket help with the sway bar rub at full lock or make it worse ?