Check engine light, yay!

OP didn’t state if he lives in an area with smog inspections.

 

OP is in west Tennessee. We don't have emission testing.

 

Hey neighbor

 

Then Hewitt is the way to go

 

Suburbs of Memphis here. C'ville to be exact.

 

Born/raised in Mempho, left Bartlett in my rear view mirror 13 years ago !

 

I think California is the only place that might not pass you with a Hewitt. I've passed emissions inspections in Texas with my Hewitt bypass

 

Smart move. I'm only here due to my aging parents. Once (God forbid) that's no longer an issue, I'm heading back up north to the glorious cold and snow. I loathe these horrid summers.

 

Howdy from the pretty side of the state, Knoxville.

 

I passed SMOG last year.

 

So what was your concern???

 

@Solid Snake Good news and Bad news. Good news is your not the only one who tripping SAIS fault codes. Bad news is the SAIS is failure prone and almost a certainty to fail. We appreciate everyone who have installed the Hewitt Bypass Kit spreading the word @2006Tundra . We have a couple of solutions and happy to help answer any questions. I have included a few threads that provide more details about the system and our Bypass Kits.

What Does the Secondary Air Injection System Do?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-does-the-secondary-air-injection-system-do.113683/

What Do My Secondary Air Injection Error Codes Mean?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-do-my-secondary-air-injection-error-codes-mean.113686/

How to Fix Secondary Air Injection System?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-do-you-fix-the-secondary-air-injection-system.113688/

 

You said CA might not pass emissions, I did.

 

Mine burnt out. I think I had too many codes or something. Bulb couldn't handle it.

 

I see now, I had you confused for this guy

 

I should have been more clear. Sorry about that

 

17 codes!

 

Update:
Got my truck back from the shop today. One of the SAIS valves was indeed stuck shut. They unstuck it and got it moving freely again, and cleared the code. Truck runs fine now. They told me this might fix it for good, or the valve could get stuck again tomorrow. If the valve sticks again, that will mean a new pump. They quoted me around $960 for a new pump. So, I'll drive my truck as is for now. If the valve sticks again, then I guess I'll move to step 2. $67 out the door for today's fix.

 

Damn! $67?!

I swore there was a way to toggle the valves to cycle repeatedly, or at least 'reset' them, without uncorking the intake manifold.

Did they replace your intake manifold gasket too, knowing they had to take it off? Maybe it was in good shape already?

 

I guess the gasket was good. The $67 was the "diagnostic fee". $59.99 plus tax was what they charged.

 

Dang. Winner winner, chicken dinner! Go buy a lottery ticket. And if you win, please, I don't ask a lot, just pay for a few mods on my truck

 

Well....let's see how far I can go before the valve locks up again, if ever (fingers crossed).

 

Bypass it! Hewitt plug n play bypass. $150. Install in less than 30 mins

 

That might be the next step.

 

Hell, if you have a shop that'll charge $60 for today's visit, and $900 to swap out to get back to OEM and run another 17 years with the new part and never having to worry about any of the weird glitchy headaches some people have found with the bypass ... I think I'd opt for replacing the damn pump with OEM.

I dunno. I just don't like bypassing OEM parts, because you never truly know how that may cascade into other stuff later. And you'll always have that nagging feeling any time anything else goes wrong, "Wait ... could it be the bypass kit?"

I respect what Hewitt is doing, but with the latest iteration of kit, there are a few people who've experienced problems. Hewitt was on top of it, and stood by the product, supported our members so I respect that and I'm in no way speaking poorly of it. It's just not always a slam dunk.

 

It sounded like Deep voice Dan was having fuel trim issues, and thought it might be related to the bypass and the tune he’s using.

 

I can't imagine they removed the intake for $67. So there must be a way to cycle it.

 

Yeah, this is exactly my point.

Again, no offense to Hewitt, it's hard to beat their offering and the price point as a means to an end. And we've seen it: Their support is awesome.

But Dan's case is one of a dozen or more examples of why you maybe shouldn't choose an add-on device to 'delete' something integral to the OEM's overall design without fully understanding the ramifications or how that change may cascade into other stuff. Even if you hate the fundamental idea of smog/emissions on our vehicles like I do, when we know good and well it's corporations who are causing 90%+ of all the problems, not our pickup trucks.

I feel similarly about dealerships who choose to add the bullshit KARR/SECURIKEY+ alarm systems in vehicles that already have an OEM alarm - you're basically adding an embedded, programmed device which intercepts and manipulates I/O on your truck's lines. A 3rd party embedded device which wasn't designed & tested by the OEM to ensure 100% compatibility. You have no way to know if it'll behave as expected under all circumstances. Furthermore, you have no way to know whether it'll play nice with other common, desirable things like tuning, or if it's compatible with every ECU/ECM produced for our trucks, and there are at least a dozen or two out there.

In theory, it should work. It's a pretty simple design. But every embedded device has its thresholds of what it recognizes as valid input, and what it can send as input. But vehicles don't always act predictably, and you can never guess all the thresholds of what may happen when adjacent systems fail to behave as expected - say, a related sensor starts dying a slow death, and causes the overall system to behave slightly out of spec. It's also virtually impossible to embed every usage case into a device like this, and to my knowledge, I don't know if any of these bypass manufacturers allow you to flash/reprogram those devices when they find bugs in the firmware, you may need to uninstall and send it back for that.

If your main goal is to get by without a check engine light, and you're not worried about a potential domino effect or what happens when - and it will happen, just like with aftermarket alarms! - the embedded device you installed starts to eventually age out or die totally, go for it. Average lifespan on aftermarket alarms is 10-12 years before things start getting squirrely. It could be because a capacitor swole, a diode or resistor isn't performing as expected, or too many heat/cool cycles make a PCB trace crack, or a solder joint to get flaky. It happens, things today are just flat-out made to be disposable with crazy intricate CAD-designed PCB layouts, using EPA-safe methods that aren't as stout as what you could get away with 50 years ago... and components that are mass-produced with more emphasis on quantity vs. quality.

Then again, maybe your truck will be long gone by then and it's someone else's problem.

If my SAIS goes, chances are I'll just take it as an opportunity to replace my SAIS, service my starter, install a new intake gasket, and know I probably won't be popping the lid off my engine for another 10-15 years from then on.

... and with that, someone take my soapbox. /rant

 

Well...damn.