Water pump at 52k grrr

After doing a trans drain and fill the other day, I noticed a few red drops on the ground today. Thinking it had to be related to the drain and fill I looked all over...checked the drain plug and level plug and the thermostat for the aux cooler that I pinned... all dry. Fluid on the ground was also up towards the front so I realized it was coolant. I'm shocked to say the least that it's already time for a water pump. I removed the skid plate and there was quite a bit of fluid on there, and I could trace it up to the pump area...although difficult to see exactly where it might be coming from. Checked with the dealership to see if possibly it would be covered by powertrain warranty. I'm under mileage but a few months over 60 months...of course. Dealer quoted about 850 bucks to change it if that in fact is what it is. the service tech wasn't sure it would be covered either way.

Questions: Are there any notorious hoses or any other things near the water pump that might be leaking? I'll do as thorough an inspection as possible before buying the pump but thought I'd ask.
How long is the serpentine belt good for? looks perfect. probably change it if I have it off but $55 bucks if not necessary?
Service guy said I'd need to also do a coolant flush as part of the process...seemed like overkill at this mileage and with draining 90% of it while having it apart anyway. is this necessary?

Last question...I have put approx 10k miles/year on it, but mostly in the nicer weather. It sits quite a bit during the winter. Do you think it sitting for a week or two at a time during the winter could cause early failure? I tow quite a bit during the summer so it works fairly hard during the warmer months.

edit not a PRO...put in wrong category.

 

I would have them change the serpentine belt, and make sure they actually do it. NO WAY would I pay for a coolant flush.

 

What they'll probably tell you is this... "well, we reuse coolant if you don't get a coolant flush", which they would have anyway assuming there is no discoloration. When you buy new coolant, you aren't paying for its heat exchanging properties per se. You are paying for corrosion inhibitors.

When you purchase coolant at Walmart, you will notice three types of coolant, Asian, Domestic and mix with any color. Domestic coolants are blended with the intent to be used in iron blocks. Asian coolants have inhibitors for aluminum blocks. I don't know exactly what the "mix with anything" coolant has in it, but I can tell you I have used it for decades and many hundreds of thousands of miles in Toyotas and Fords without issue.

As long as the specific gravity is within spec and you don't have any particulates, you can reuse coolant without issue.

Long explanation.

 

I would not do a 'flush' just because. I don't know for sure, but it sounds like they are trying to collect extra $$ for doing a 'flush'...

Regarding the belt.. if you haven't recently changed it, I would definitely do that as there should be no labor charge if they are already removing the pump. I'd ask for the old one though, and if you have a 'truck tool box' or place for gear, you can always keep it w/you in the truck just in case you have one inadvertently snap on your while on the road. Not a likely issue, but never hurts to have an extra

**** I'd definitely make sure that the belt they replace it with is an OE Toyota part. I've had the belt replaced twice on my '08 by dealers who were out of stock on the part and just ordered local parts (one was Napa) not sure of the other brand. Point being on both occasions I went from a slightly worn belt w/no noise to a squealing pig within 24 hours of it being on the truck. Both times the dealer (different dealers) tried to claim it was not the belt causing it; one wanted to charge inspection fee and said it was probably AC clutch going out, and the other claimed it was the idler pulley. Both were wrong, after much debate and frustration (both times) the belts were replaced w/OE and problem was immediately resolved.

Not sure why, but I'm guessing the truck had very narrow tolerances and the aftermarket parts just weren't quite right...

 

Ever since Toyota went to the extra long life pink coolant, I’ve had nothing but early water pump failures. All three of my vehicles have had early water pump failures. On older Toyotas using the old school long life red coolant, I would do timing belt change and water pump at 100k intervals. Never had premature leaks. All I know is I’m done using that pink garbage and went back to using Toyota red. Never had issues. Guessing the pink is supposed to last longer and be better for the environment or something but I swear that stuff is the common denominator to leaks.

 

My water pump was "seeping" according to the dealer. I was just under 60K at the time and fought with them to repair due to warranty. They gave me some BS about it wasn't bad enough to warrant repair. The lead tech gave it a shot with corp to no avail.

 

did you just happen to notice that it was seeping or did they point it out to you during routine service? I figured it was a long shot that they'd cover it but it never hurts to try.

 

Contact corporate yourself. Leaking water pump is a failure.

 

You’re probably out of warranty now but next time you have warranty work that needs to be done bring it to Toyota of poway and ask for Art at the service counter. The guy gets everything warrantied. I swear he’s got an inside guy at corporate or something

 

I work on my own vehicles and have never had one worked on but here’s a water pump tip: if you see a tiny bit of seepage and it COULD be warranty, drop the vehicle off the night before when they’re closed. Crawl under the truck and blast a bunch of coolant up by the water pump area so it will leave a trail of coolant. They won’t even waste their time pressure testing and you’ll get it replaced under warranty. Fight fire with fire right?

 

Yup they discovered it and I took a photo. And Im way outta warranty now. Thanks

 

I would still call corporate. Tell them what happened. They have taken care of people that have been pushed off like this.

 

Im going to. I also have it documented.

 

Pisses me off just hearing this. What? Do they think the leak will magical get better?

 

Toyota has gotten more stringent on dealers about leaks. Oil leaks have to be dripping. Coolant leaks have to be wet when touched with a paper towel and strut leaks have to reach to almost the bottom the the strut. They also make sure because now you are required to take photos of all this and get authorization from corporate before replacement.

There is no need to do a flush and the belts usually last along time, I wouldn't reuse the old coolant though. Most of the tundra's I see still have well over 100k on original belt and there are no issues.

The jobs pretty straight forward and easy, remove the front fan and the radiator shroud and you have all the room in the world. Buy an Aisin water pump from rockauto, Aisin makes them for Toyota its exactly the same they just shave off the Toyota symbol on the metal casting since its not through the dealer and its only $80

 

Toyota doesn't like to admit fault. Sending people away until their warranty is expired while their water pump leaks is wrong.

 

Thanks for stoking the fire gents. I felt the same way. I went apeshit at the counter when they told me they will not honor warranty. I'm at 82K now and wonder if Toyota will even consider the issue. Damnit.

 

Ok guys...I took the dive and replaced the water pump myself. Got a new pump, belt, and 2 gallons of pink toyota coolant. Took me about 4 hours. Wasn't too bad of a job other than that one bolt for the thermostat housing behind those hoses...and getting a few hoses disconnected. "Old" coolant looks great. A few questions though... how do you guys release the tension on the belt? Didnt seem like there was a good way to do it. Also, should there be any play in the fan bearing? It spins fine, no grinding or anything, but if I wiggle it up and down, there's a tiny bit of play I can hear...cant see it. I'll try and upload a video. One final thing that is a first for me... I dont think the seal or the pump bearings/orings failed. It looks to me like my pump housing is cracked. Never seen that before!

 

This is from another post, it’s from 2011 but I think it still applies

 

This is my theory. My 2017 with intermittent similar summer use needed a water pump before 60k miles. My 2007 is original water pump at 168k and only weeps when I let it sit for a week at a time.

 

the strange part about this is that it doesnt appear to be leaking from that plug notated in the PDF. that part is clean. it appears to be coming from a tiny pinhole in the picture here.