Gen 1 vs Gen 2, having trouble deciding

I guess it all depends where you live. My worst mileage driving in traffic around Boston is still 15 mpg. I doubt I’d get that with the 5.7L in a double cab 4x4.

 

But he's looking at a 2nd gen with a 4.6. Bigger, heavier truck without more power. So if he's comparing the trucks he described, I don't see the 2010 as better than the '04.

 

2mpg difference between 2x4 and 4x4 is not unusual. I’m surprised you were getting 13 mpg out of the 2000 tundra though.

 

This is how I was thinking as well

 

I have the '04 DC 4x4 and honestly would not trade it for a 2010 w/ the 4.6. The later gens just don't appeal to me.

I actually settled for this truck in 2017 when I couldn't find an afordable DC Tacoma and now I'm so glad with how things turned out. I can comfortably fit my family of 5 in it without anybody complaining either.

 

Well, the 2010 is out. Fortunately he was honest enough with me before I drove 3 hours each way. It has a “small” oil leak and he can barely smell the oil burning. I’m assuming it’s the cam tower and I also assume that it’s something that will get progressively worse over time. Something I really don’t want to deal with.

 

You have chosen wisely.

 

I really wanted a rock warrior but all I found were either trashed or too high. After looking for 6 months or so and all down the east coast I decided to start shopping for an 05-06 truck. I like that they have the bigger bed with the double cab vs the newer crewmax with the little bed. I wasn’t interested in any truck without 4 full-size doors.

 

The more I talk, think and read about it, the more I feel like you do. At one point only a few months ago, I looked at a regular cab 1GT with a replaced frame 3 years earlier, 90k miles. Before even opening the doors, I go under trucks (PA roads definitely have a way of shaping your priorities lol), and proceeded to put my finger through the rocker panel. It was disheartening at the time, but now I’m sooo glad it happened like that.

BTW I called an hour ago and the 90k mile 2004 is ready, the brakes fixed. I’ll report back hopefully Monday with some pics of my new-to-me truck. I do have a little anxiety about the unicorn comments, since they indeed proved to be true with the difficulty in finding the brake part. But I’m hoping any future problems might be solved with a visit to the salvage yard. I’m trying to keep in my mind that first and foremost, it’s my work truck. But a work truck that I plan on babying for many years to come.

 

@Elevatorguy, mind me asking what area you’re in? Sounds like we might be close to one another, relatively speaking on a global website.

 

When I went with 04 I specifically did not want VVTI, had to have the four full size doors, had to have at least a 6ft bed (unlike the dinky little beds of the newer crew max). Also the 04 includes upgraded planetary gears in the trans vs the older models, and the bigger 13WL brakes. The DC will also have that sweet sliding rear window. Well guess what, only one model year of Tundra ever made fits those criteria and that is the 04 DC. Minor perk is your PCV valve is gonna be a thread in and not the pop-in-and-out design.

What brake part did they have trouble sourcing? I refreshed my brakes last year, new drums, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, springs, front calipers, pads, rotors. I didn't have any issues sourcing parts.

 

I’m in Maryland.

 

I found a nice 2004 with higher miles yesterday (144k) but $5k less. So I definitely jumped on messaging him. Being up north, before I drive 4-5 hours each way, I ask if the timing belt has been changed and if he can snap a couple pics of the frame. His response is “you’ll have to come see it.” Is it that hard to snap a couple pics and answer a simple question? The price is low enough that now I wonder if something is up.

My thought is that it was the ABS module. I can’t see having to go through Toyota to simply source a master cylinder, as the salesman claimed. And good info about the gears. I have to research that, as I’m unfamiliar with those and these transmissions.

yep, I’m in SW PA, near Johnstown. So you know my pain with salt. Hence looking hours away from me for a decent vehicle.

 

I actually have the exact truck, minus 4wd, you were looking at as my work truck, but it's a 13. I'd say my 13 4.6 DC vs my 02 4.7 4wd AC fell about the same power wise, with a slight edge going to the 2nd gen. Size wise is a no brainer, you can actually fit adults in the back of the 2nd gen. I've pulled a 19ft scissor lift with both, the 2nd gen feels better, but the 1st gen isn't bad. All said, I prefer my 1st gen just for the size. It just feels better.

 

The only reason not to get the vvti is if you find a supercharged 00-04

 

thanks for the info. Actually, I’m only hunting double cabs (Crew Max if speaking of 2GT). Neither of those trucks in your pics really interest me due to the smaller cabs. I’m finding several 1GT with low miles (under 100k) for in the $8k range, but are access cabs like yours. I just can’t bring myself to spend the money on a smaller cab. I know 6 months down the road I’ll be regretting it.

edit: sorry I know I’m confusing some here. My choices are still refining, even as this thread has been progressing. In the past couple days, I’ve ruled out gen 2’s. They just don’t appeal to me like the 1st.

 

Seller knows something is up, or wouldn't give that response.

 

Agreed with shifty on the suspicious seller reply.

@DJenerated I went with non-vvti because of reduced complexity at least in my uneducated perception. And no dealing with secondary intake air bypass module or whatever it's called, I never bothered to learn about since it doesn't apply.

 

I will say one issue I've run into is head unit compatibility issues. 04s seem to be a toss up as to what OEM system you'll get and it's not necessarily plug and play to swap between other 1GT head units. I have an older thread where the kind folks here have given me advice on adapting my 1-CD changer to the 6-CD changer + aux but just haven't gotten around to tackling that job yet. Potential PITA if you want to modify that part of the truck.

 

Yep, I wouldn’t even look at a pa or north truck. I thought I found a nice Nissan titan in Florida while on vacation, Nope. Sold at auction, spent its whole life in New York. Rust bucket!

 

I hear ya. Not only that, but my buddy in Jacksonville (I lived there for 33 years) has a dealer’s license and said now he has to watch out for flood cars. So you REALLY have to be careful down there. It’s still a good place for vehicles, though. I’ve worn out many a 1/4 million mile-Honda Civic with a perfect body living down there.

 

Well, it was a bust :-/ kind of. Walking up to it, it had seen a lot more minor abuse than the pics led on. Back bumper had seen enough that it was somewhat buckled and the tailgate had a bare/rusty spot from rubbing. The passenger door rubbed the front fender, leading me to believe there was some minor damage at some point. The carpets had a bit of staining. And the gold interior doesn’t age well when not cared for. That was the minor stuff.

The frame was in good shape when lying under the truck. Looked to be treated and solid. The exhaust was new after the cat. But from under the hood, the front rails on each side showed a good bit of flaking. There was a bit of mousse under the oil cap, but the truck has been sitting, so I don’t know what is just normal condensation and what indicates a head gasket problem. The master cylinder was indeed new. But when I started it, the check engine light was on. When I asked about it, the guy said, “yeah, we think it needs a cat. We’re taking it tomorrow to do that.” (sigh) That would’ve been more valuable info to me when I called Saturday. I asked how flexible he was on price. He said since I came from PA, he could come down “a little.” I told him “between the cat and the timing belt, that’s probably close to $2000 in repairs.” I didn’t tell him I can do my own TB because my time is valuable, too. He responded with “a lot of people are calling me about that truck.” Well I’m sure they are. The pics make it look like a different truck.

So after 2:45 drive down, I turned around and came home. Also 1/2 day down on time off. I know paying less than $13k for an 89k mile truck I shouldn’t be too picky. But paying that much for a 20 year old truck, I shouldn’t have to drive it home, park it and sink another $1000+ into it. It drove nice and quiet, 4x4 worked, seemed ok overall. But it just didn’t feel right. And with the chip shortage over now, I strongly suspect these prices will be dropping soon.

 

Normal if you take a lot of short trips
(usually shows up most in cold weather). If the mayo doesn’t overflow the cap, you’re good.

If you drive for 20 miles min every day, I’d probably be concerned at that point because you should have essentially burned off the condensation.

 

Yeah, that's a bit creamy-frothy than I'd expect. At best, the truck has been short-trip-driven to death. At worst, something is blown. In the middle, maybe clogged PCV and short trip driving?

 

Yeah, being 20 years old with only 89k miles, I’d say you guys are dead on…

@Mr.bee lol.
I assume you mean away from the truck and not back after it?

I went back looking in Jax, but nearly all the trucks down there have 200k+ miles. That’s just too many for me to start out with.

Edit: like this dude. And it’s not even 4x4 (which I need):
https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/d/fleming-island-2005-toyota-tundra-sr5/7589385209.html

 

The only 4x4 1gt on my craigslist is a ridgeline.