Is this a normal amount of dirt in the oil filter?

I just changed my (full synthetic) oil at 4400 miles ahead of a very long road trip. The trip will be 3000 miles in total.

For the first time, I decided to take a close look at the old oil filter. I was somewhat taken aback by how much dirt is present. Is this normal, or should I be concerned?

Mine is a 2007 5.7 with 187,000 miles and runs like a champ.

 

Not normal at all. My filters show zero particulate and I have 100k more miles than your truck.

Is there any reason it'd be gross? Did you just get the truck? Are the particles shiny like metal (doesn't appear to be from the photo)?

 

How long was that filter in there for? Do you do alot of cold starts and short trips

 

Also is that a oem filter? It looks sludgy

 

Seems almost sludge like. Sludge will build up in small areas and release causing a dirt like appearance. Can't tell just from pics though. Are you a fairly new owner? Just wondering if at some point in the last many oil changes there were extremely long runs between oil changes. That crude build-up is very odd otherwise. You may want to do a few oil changes at 3-4K just to see if it improves or stays the same.

[And due to my "Millennial Probation" I am currently serving for not being sensitive enough. The 3rd Gen Tundra is the best truck. All other trucks bow in its presence. The front grill is amazing and pretty. The reliability is better the any Toyota ever built.]

 

I’ve had the truck for 3.5 years, 25k miles. I’ve been doing oil changes every 5k/1 year. It sits a lot, as we have 7 vehicles. This vehicle is actually used on the highway more than anything. It’s not my daily driver to work, but it’s our long distance cruiser.

I’ve never noticed such sludge before, and I always do my own oil changes. The only thing I’ve done different this go around is that I replaced the spark plugs-this is the first oil change since I did the plugs. Perhaps some dirt got in that way, but it’s hard to imagine that much.

I appreciate the info everyone. I’m driving my family of 4 from Missouri to Las Vegas this Saturday so I don’t want any unwelcome surprises. I just drove it now and it runs as good as it ever has.

 

The particles are not shiny like metal. It almost seems literally like dirt. When I put the particles in my fingers and rub my fingers together, the grit dissolves.

It’s almost like someone took a scoop of dirt and put it in the crankcase.

 

It is an OEM filter, and I change it with every oil change. I have changed the oil filter cartridge over to the OEM Toyota metal one, but used the centerpiece thing from an aftermarket Dorman.

I guess I do semi frequent “short trips” now that I think about it when I have to shuffle cars in the driveway. That could be part of the problem.

 

Look at the underside of your oil fill cap.

 

You should change your oil every 6 months. Fuel will always get in your oil and it starts to breakdown the oil. Couple that with infrequent usage to help burn off the fuel in the oil and it may be your issue. It's worth an extra 50 bucks a year to avoid a sludge problem later.

Example is a 2000 Ford Excursion V10 that my dad's had since new and it currently has 85k miles on it. I changes the oil every 6 months, even if it drove only 1000 miles. No issues at all. I do however use Dino oil since it's so infrequently used.

 

On this note, that gasket under the cap should be changed once in a while. It's probably the most overlooked gasket in the whole auto world.

 

I do believe I will do every 6 month oil changes going forward. The YouTuber Toyota Master technician (Carcarenut) said he also recommends 5k/6 month oil changes. I didn’t want to believe him even though he’s been right about everything else!

 

Looks like some sludge broke loose.

You loan it to your son for a weekend? Haha!

 

this plus maybe the previous oil did some cleaning ...

op, what oil did you use the previous time?

 

Might want to rethink that change after watching this video.
https://youtu.be/G_vl2AYe7Yg

 

I’ve been using supertech full synthetic the whole time.

 

I saw this a while back…agreed..I’m going to order another OEM oil filter cartridge. The bypass valve thing is a concern. Relatively Expensive mistake, Wish I would’ve kept my old one smh.

 

I didn’t rewatch, but if it’s the video I’m thinking of-he mentions that replacing the factory plastic oil filter cartridge for a metal one is a mistake. That the bypass valve is engineered specific to each application. So by “upgrading” to a metal one, the bypass valve specifications won’t be correct.

He’s a Toyota master tech that really knows his stuff, if you’re not familiar with him.

 

Bit the bullet and bought a new OEM from my local dealer. I’ll change the filter housing before I leave on my trip and change oil when I get back and report back.

Had I not been so quick to throw away my original I would’ve just moved the centerpiece to the metal housing and been ok. The centerpiece that came with the Dorman was flimsy and pops right out. Lesson learned.

 

I was told my a Toyota Master Mechanic to always use OEM filters. The rest just don't cut it.

I buy them in bulk from a dealer online. Lasts me years, and much cheaper than in person.

Lastly, I thought I heard poor air filters can cause grime to get in the oil?

 

I wish his shop was closer to me so I support his business. I’ve learned so much from that guy as an amateur wrencher.

 

For those who don’t have much time, click on the video, he goes into the conversion @16:00.

Bottom line, keep the oil filter canister that came with the truck. Don’t be like me spending $$ to change and $$$ to change back lol.

 

Good video!

Wonder about those who bought the Toyota metal canister and switched the tube with the longer one from the plastic canister but did not switch the spring? We had people who didn't even switch the tube and used the short one but that's another story.

According to this video, it is a calibrated pressure relief spring designed for the aluminum canister that's goes with some Lexus? engines I assume and not necessarily designed for Tundra!
Maybe it's the same engine and/or similar specs but something to be careful about.

Seems like best is to swap the springs as well or better yet don't mess with it and keep the original factory plastic.

 

That looks like air/water entrainment. Was the oil cold when you changed it? If it runs great just drive it.

 

People switching to the metal cap is a solution to a problem caused by over tightened plastic caps . Nothing wrong with the plastic cap when it is not torqued on way too tight.

 

Take away - if it won't fall off in 5 or 10k, it's tight enough. More tight does not prevent leaks!

 

I judge mine by the little metal tab on the housing.

 

Yes the oil was cold when I changed it. I didn’t know this could be a factor?