Crackhead resurrection

We were just saying at dinner tonight- everyone has 4WB ( 4 wheel braking). In winter it's the (It's okay I've got AWD) people in the SUV's that fly past you on the way to the slopes that you see way the F off the highway in a couple of miles.
4WD gets you going, but dang it keeps you going when you slide off the road.
That's about the best telephone pole accident you could have had. Lucky + skills. Congratulations. (were you late for work?)

 

At least you missed that pole. I'm sure theres more crackhead trucks out there but maybe not so many crackhead Noah's around. Glad you're alright.

I drove a little slower to/from work then usual but fortunately no black ice around here that I'm aware of. Sure you're on more backroads on a daily basis though.

 

that’s a guy wire , they put them on to pull tension in the opposite direction the wire is pulling. That pole though is guy’d to hell and back, it ain’t going no where. Glad you’re alright and missed that pole.

 

Finally getting around to browsing tires. Looking at a set of these goodyear wranglers, work horse from the wallace wurl.







Rebate available as well.



Anybody have any experience with this tire? Reviews on wallace wurl are good, but limited. Only 5 of them. Only negative thing that I found was that these were made in Mexico instead of USA.

 

I like https://www.tirerack.com/.
I don't know your ZIP, I just picked one.
I don't think they make ANY tires in the US anymore
I'm running GOODYEAR WRANGLER ALL-TERRAIN ADVENTURE WITH KEVLAR NO 3PMSF, OE TREAD DESIGN SL, I like them just fine

 

Make sure that's the look you want. Aren't the tires on there now quite a bit bigger? Nothing wrong with going smaller to save on gas as long as you don't mind how it looks.

Also, don't you need load range E for the towing you want to do with Crackie?

 

Those are load range e?

 

About the cosmetics I don't know what size tires cracky has currently but I'm going up one rim size so I think it will even out but I'm not for sure I would have to double check

 

Okay good. In your screenshot it says 121S after the tire size. I'm not even sure if load range s is a thing?

 

Looks like a good road & inclement on road tire. It doesn't strike me as a good get out of the ditch tire. Should you fall asleep or someone comes over the line on a curve & you have to drive into a culvert or into the field - not sure that tire is going to get you back up onto the road, I just don't see that tread having the bite to carve a path. Probably fairly quiet for daily road use.
but I dunno - @Tundra2 seems to have a lot of "driving adventures".

 

I’ve not had great experience with anything Goodyear, although a lot of people swear by the Durtracs

 

121 is the load index, and S is the speed rating. Means tire is rated for a top speed of 112MPH.

https://www.pirelli.com/tires/en-us/car/driving-and-tire-tips/how-to-read/tire-speed-rating

 

Goodyear Wrangler is generally a good tire but they don’t last long. Probably 40-50k miles at most.

 

Can't outrun the cops' radio at that slow speed.

 

https://youtu.be/f41chMyKwVk

 

That was nauseating. I take it everything is cool after you re-torqued the UCA bolts down?

Meanwhile, wtf is up with that wasp nest at the end? Is that what you were taking down with the double-gloved hands? Stick works just as well, y'know.

 

No lie... I forgot about that shit. I made this for someone else, but forgot while I was asleep and then posted it here because I saw my truck... so....

 

I just watched it myself for the first time. When the glove on the dash started vibrating, and the whole phone was shaking I was really putting the beans to er.

Really on it the whole time. I guess I drive like a Nascar driver all the time. If y'ain't first, ya last!

Yeah, everything is all good in the hood. Rides smooth except for the shake at certain speeds. I think that's mostly these hard, worn out fucking tires.

 

Is the shake a vibration you feel in the seat, or a shimmy on the steering wheel?

We had a cold snap recently, back before I cleared my TPMS codes and the damn TPMS light was still flashing. I was having some pretty violent shimmy in the steering wheel at low speed (15-30mph). Enough that I got concerned, pulled over and checked to make sure none of my lugnuts were loose, and turned around to head the short 1 mile or so back to the house. I'd noticed similar in previous weeks, tiny little 1/4" back/forth shimmy, but this was, no lie, about 1" side-to-side shimmy of the steering wheel.

Turned out it my cold snap had my tires down to around 27-28psi, and 24psi on one of the rears. Aired 'em back up to 32 all the way around and I haven't seen it since. I can't remember a time in history when I've ever seen that previously unless my air was waaaay off. Bizarre.

 

It's the entire truck. The hood rattles around. The dash shakes. The topper squeaks. I haven't been able to rule out the tires completely because I haven't swapped them out yet, but it definitely seems fine around certain vehicle speeds. For instance, cruising at 50 is smooth as buttah. Causing at 65 is medium shake. Fine until 72. Slightly worse shake. 93-ish is pretty violent shake.

I'll have to get a video of everything in the daylight in the morning.

 

Oh, and regarding air pressure, I have a leaky tire. You know I fill the fucking tire up every day before I leave anywheres. I check the other 3 as well.

 

I'm tired

 

Sounds a hell of a lot like wheel balance to me...

And re: slow leak... you try the basic stuff already, tightening up the Schrader valve insert? Jack up that side, spin the wheel and hit it with spray bottle of soapy water?

 

The valve stem is leaking where it sears against the rim. I just haven't fucked with it.

I'm hoping new rims and tires will take care of it.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...air-overhaul-beef-up-lube.94180/#post-2378735

 

Came across your old post and checked this part number. Are you sure you got the rack and pinion that cheap? McGeorge now charges $928.99

 

Depends which of their three sites you check. They have 3 parts sites. I checked this one, it's under $500: https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-remanufactured-gear-assembly-power-442500c05084?c=bD0yJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM=

Note the part number was superceded. New one, for reman, is 44250-0C050-84 which means the non-reman is 44250-0C050

"44250-0C010", the old part number, looks to be backordered most places.

 

Why do they have 3? If you order directly from them you don't get the free shipping over $75. I went to the Toyota Parts Program then picked McGeorge.

Huge swings in price from your link $491 to the Toyota site $642. It sounds like there is no longer a benefit to using the parts program. I'd be better off using McGeorge and paying shipping.

$363 seems like a steal. Noah was smart to buy when he did.

 

No clue why they have 3 storefronts. Someone on here did ask them though, and there was a feasible explanation. One of the three doesn't even have a valid phone number, it's like 000-000-0000 or some craziness.

And yeah, something happened with the recent Toyota Parts changes. I'm still not sure if they in-housed the parts program and site and have abandoned PartSimple's system totally or what. But I noticed a LOT of my local dealerships have fallen back to a flat 5% discount as if, when they moved everyone over to the new system, they reset everyone's offered discount to a fixed 5%, and left it up to the individual dealers to update the discount percentage to a higher amount. My two go-to dealerships were Marietta Toyota and Rick Hendricks, each one was pretty consistently 15%-20% off MSRP, sometimes as much as 30-40% off. After the conversion, I'm lucky to hit 10-15% on everything.

 

I’m already on my third shifter mechanism so I know the drill on replacement steps.