What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Tightened down literally every single bolt on my valve covers, they each had at least half turn on them and one or two had a full turn. Headed to Wally World here in a minute to pick up some

$21 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205, then everything will get wiped down as much as possible to see if it’s still leaking.

 

If you have any appreciable hand strength the sparkplugs should be like 13 ft.lbs. And have over a 1/4 turn left in em. Its a little unnerving, when you're used to 'crushing' the washer.

anyone know of a pic of the proper tightening sequence? Couldnt find one for a 2uz the easy way.

 

That's cause there isn't one. This is literally what the FSM says for 2UZ, see step (e):

 

53 in.lbs. Is less than 5 ft. lbs. they might as well be made of plastic.

 

I alway do my spark plugs hand snug tight. I’d rather be too loose than too tight. Breaking the top off a plug would leave a pit in my stomach.

 

But some peoples hand tight is 30 ft.lbs. If something is rusty i might snap a 1/4" drive ratchet. The newwest craftsman they sent me has a sharper handle so i'll calm down.

 

Don't buy a Ford.

 

I use a torque wrench whenever I can because I over tighten otherwise.

 

I used a torque wrench the last time I replaced my spark plugs and it was sketchy as hell. Next time I'll just go by feel.

 

I got the harbor freight 1/4" drive torque wrench. The tundra is my only vehicle that uses it, even the buell is measured in ft.lbs.

 

Looks good. I've been considering this because my wife could use an easier step in. A few questions:

What do you mean that it doesn't fit as flush as you'd like? Where?
Does the vertical rib of the running board screw flush into the vertical rib under the rocker panel? Any other attachments?
Curious where you bought this set....I see them on Ebay, Amazon, etc.

Any chance you could post a photo square-on with the doors open?

Thanks!

 

Do they fly out?

 

The 3 valve mod motor notoriously galled the threads and would crack plugs when you tried to remove em. Maybe it was on the 5.4's but i was lucky with grandma's v10, the dealer wanted almost $1k to change plugs.

 

What Mr. Bee said. If you were lucky, the threads came out the hole attached to the sparkplug instead of the motor. IIRC it was mostly the 5.4's.

 

My brother had the 5.4 motor but I helped him with plugs and didn’t have an issue although they got changed at 50k miles.

His head gasket did blow at 75k miles though.

 

If they were routinely changed young, you were =probably= okay.

 

F'n ford does it on purpose. Think they didnt know a waterpump bushing would pump water into the timing cover and oil pan in the ecoboosts?

luckily, wih the wealth of information available through the internet, i can only blame the consumers.

 

This has been my experience too. If you're installing new, you can feel the crush washer tamp down. I leave it at that.

 

”snug” certainly isn’t 30 ft-lbs and you should be using a small 3/8” ratchet, not a 14”-18” one.

 

I started digging in on my TPMS issue today. I didn't want to dig up the Techstream cable and drag all the shit into the truck, so instead I figured I'd give my OBDLink MX+ bluetooth dongle a shot at digging to see if it'd find what's up.

And it did. But it's limited to reading and clearing for the most part on our trucks, so ... Here's what I did:

First, I used their OBDLink iOS app to connect into the TPMS Network. Then I loaded up the 30-40 custom TPM pids they offer up so I could dig pretty deep. I was able to see all 5 of my TPM sensors ("ID1" - "ID5") are registered in the system, but the TPM receiver appears to be getting invalid data from them. Examples:

​

At the top of that middle picture, I was intrigued. "2 trouble codes". But I didn't see anything when connecting direct to OBD2 network related to TPMS?! But I was connected to the TPMS network now. So I bounced out into the Diagnostic section of the app (Or maybe I tapped Trouble Codes at the bottom of the windows above, I forget) and reviewed the codes stored in the TPM system, which are in the middle slide below. Then I cleared them. No more flashy light. But I haven't driven yet, so I'm not sure how long before it comes back. (more info after the image)

​

Without using a TPM relearn tool that's capable of both triggering (b/c they don't broadcast constant for battery saving reasons) and also reading 315MHz sensors to check if each sensor is broadcasting - and those can be had as cheap as $30-40 it seems - I can't do much. You could spend about that much money on a RTL-SDR dongle for a data-capture setup then decode it, which I may or may not be able to trace back to an exact tire (info) so not too helpful. You can also use Techstream to wipe out the non-broadcasting sensors I guess - which I have, more info in the video here - and then program in new ones at the next tire change, but ... I don't think I'll go that route. If 2 of 5 have stopped reporting in the last 90 days, I think I just hit EOL on these sensors and it's probably time to drop $150 on all new sensors at the next tire change. (PS - here's a rabbithole to go down if you're interested in TPMS diagnostics with Techstream)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MECPSmg5JfI​

 

just be sure and re snug then fairly often. Our motors have a tendency to back out plugs with heat cycles. Particularly #5

 

Breaker bar or GTFO

 

I find it interesting that I have 2 vehicles with TPMS and 2 without. I can't decide what I like better. Is TPMS awesome b/c you know roughly what your pressure is at the console? Or is it terrible b/c you spend all your time getting it happy when it really doesn't help you out any more than a stupid car alarm helps you out (which is near zero) because any idiot knows when a tire is out of air.

So, yeah. Dunno. Jury is out? Maybe a Friday poll?

 

I prefer sensor less. Less shit to fuck up

 

The tmps's in the titan sit in the glovebox.

 

Devil's advocate to that is, "... but does the idiot in question notice before their tire is totally FUBAR and they need to buy a new one?"

Good tires run anywhere from $175-350 depending on your needs. OEM TPMS sensors typically last 10-15 years before the battery dies, and only cost $30/ea to replace.

With that math, knowing I've had no less than five flats on this truck alone since joining the forum, 4 of which required plugs, 1 required an interior patch, and it was TPMS that alerted me in 80% of the cases before I noticed any slop in the truck, I'm already ahead, financially. And I'm the 3rd owner now, I'm fairly certain my TPMS sensors are the original.

Is it a pain in the ass when it's got a code saved and flashing? Totally.
Does it suck the Fed gov't mandated these back in the early 2000s? Absolutely.
Is keeping TPMS up and working a decent financial trade-off? I personally think so.

If you don't like the TPMS system, I'm fairly sure you can load up Techstream and simply remove (unregister) all 4 or 5 registered pressure sensors. If the TPMS ECU doesn't have any sensors to listen for, it's not going to bitch about low tire pressure, eh? Techstream can be had for free if you know where to look and have basic computer awareness. I don't understand why people pull bulbs, bypass lights, etc.

It'll be really interesting to see how long it takes before (or even if) my TPMS starts flashing again.

Sealed, pressurized PVC sensor-loaded rig?

 

nope. Been sitting in there with dead batteries since '06 when he swapped wheels. I just ignore the light on the dash.

 

My strainer blew out last night. Just a seal.

Here's pictures.


I stress tested the fuck out of this since I've had it in. It did great, all things considered. Basically what happened is it slowly unscrewed itself, and a seal got blown out last night while I was running near a hunnit. I smelled it, but didn't see it. Kept choogling to work. Gambled.

Popped the hood after clocking out and changed the upper rad hose with my Continental spare I've kept handy. I just didn't have coolant




I had to drive the ferd to go get more coolant. As per the norm, check engine light. That little bastard feels all kinds of clunky compared to my schmooov truck.


Picked up two gallons of peak. Used 1.75 gallons. Radiator was bone dry.


Finally got back to work, Topped up, and then let crackie idle till I felt the thermostat open.

I'll be glad when I lay down and can rest. Been a long time since 3 am yesterday with one, 1 hour nap. Fuckin hell mate

 

Whats all the gunk you caught? Rust?

 

I was thinking the same. He did have rust in the system when he first got the truck and flushed it out.