Bilstein level lift nose high - Now what?

Hello all,

I need your advice...

Am new to the forum. I'm also new to Toyota and Tundra. One month ago I purchased a 2021 Tundra CrewMax SR5 and immediately began to make it mine. I have blacked out the windows, done a few interior mods, have a new set of SRS Ray10s waiting to be put on as well as 275/70/R18s

I had a well known 4X4 shop install Bilstein 5100s to level the truck out. Thanks to the knowledge on this forum I asked them to set to middle setting, but they insisted that highest setting was needed to achieve level. I went with it.

Now Im nose high by about .50 - .75 inch. At first I tried to accept it, but I just don't like it. I want a slight rake, nose down. Picture below.

Now what? Do I go back to the shop and pay to have the 5100s taken out, reset, and realignment? Or do I simply add 1 inch blocks to the rear?

This truck has full warranty until it reaches 130K miles (currently has 34K). I'm trying to not go overboard with suspension mods and void the warranty. As it stands now, all Ive done is change my shocks. I'm afraid adding a block will give Toyota reason to void warranty. Am I overthinking?

I do very little off-road, I'm 99.3% highway.

All I wanted was level, I never intended to modify the rear height, although I do like the height of the front end. Then there's so many posts about block failures, but maybe 1 inch isnt a concern?

What would you do???

Thanks for the help!

 

If I were you, I'd go back to the shop and show them that it's nose high and have them put it to the middle setting like you wanted in the first place. That's their fault 100%. You shouldn't have to pay again. And welcome to the forum!!

 

Looking back there’s always 20/20 vision. Middle setting is nice and there’s less angulation on the CVs. You could try getting them back to what you originally wanted but you ultimately allowed them to make the change. Hopefully they’d help you out.

Anyhow, a 1” shackle lift on the rear works great. I have a picture of mine with the middle setting and a 1” shackle lift and it’s perfect for me.

As far as warranty, I don’t know. I’d bet that if there was a driveline issue nor suspension issue they could connect it back to the mods, creating a headache. I did mine under warranty, too, but my tolerance might be higher than yours.

 

I lifted my 2015 with 5100s on high setting and 1” block in the rear. Has a slight rake, but will be towing in the future. Looks mostly level.

If you go with blocks, 275/70 may be a bit small. I went with 295/70 Falken Wild Peaks.

I’ll upload picture in a bit.

 

Post a pic of the lower perches on the shocks. It’s somewhat common for shops (or DIYers) to put the perches on upside down and give way too much lift.

 

Add coachbuilder shackles and be done with it.

 

Here's a shot of lower perch, I don't think it was a bad install, just a bad choice of setting.

 

Ok those look correct. I’d say make them drop it to the mid setting like you wanted then. Or get shackles for the rear like @saybng mentioned. You don’t have any shims or spacers on the top right?

 

Yes, this is exactly the stance I'm looking for, and you are on middle setting.

I agree, it would be nice if they would offer to help me out, but i highly doubt it. I agreed with them and OK`d it. I hate to have to, but I don't even mind spending the money to correct it, I just want to go about it the best way, which is why I'm torn between a Redo, Block, or even shackle.

 

I would like to see that pic, thank you.

 

Correct, no shims, no spacers. Bone stock except for 5100s

I just dont know what route to take! Analysis Paralysis!

 

This, X infinity. And beyond.

 

What size shackles would I add? +1?

Im going to try and measure the exact difference today when I get to good level ground.

 

Next question, did the shop do an alignment? That can also make a big difference in final stance.

 

Might try Icon 1.5 add-a-leaf lift springs in the back. It works pretty good for me.

 

They did, and even provided me with a print out of all the alignment specs.

 

Redo. Lifting it more does nothing good for you on the street, and isn't even optimal in most offroad situations.

I'd try to get them to at least give you a discount, since they certainly have some negligence there in advising the top setting. What did they charge for the install?

Also, if you haven't driven it much... wait until you've got a few miles hitting bumps. They do tend to settle a little.

 

I am leaning that way, Redo. I just had this done Yesterday. I have only driven about 100 miles so far. I don't think they will settle, the springs are original and I would imagine fully settled by nowI. The shock itself I don't believe holds any weight.

I'm going to call them and see what they say. I paid $930 for shocks and install. Yes, very expensive, but I knew that going in. They are a widely known shop, I wanted it done right, (haha), and I wanted to trust the workmanship, which I still do.

 

Ultimately, you might have to pay to get it right. But I would have them fix it and put the 5100s in the middle. It is unfortunate but not negligent on anyone's part. Just fix it, pay for the mistake, and be happy. You will be chasing all sorts of magic dragons now with adding to the rear to correct and/or fix the look you are looking for. Middle will ride great, give you a look you want and allow you to do bigger tires later if you want—my 2 cents.
When I did my 2012, I did the middle setting and then added the coachbuilder shims, 2 on the left, 1 on the right, because much easier to add or subtract those then pull coil, unspring it, move and then reinstall that coil.
On my 2020, I added the TRD pro front shocks with 1 shim on the driver's side. Now I need to get it aligned too.

 

Good comments above. With middle setting, you should be level. I have the 5100s up front on the highest setting and have toytec shackles in the back for +1. This results in a bit of rake, and level when I’m towing my utility trailer or have a dirt bike and gear in the bed.

 

I dunno. I think since he went in asking for middle and they talked him into top, they have liability. Absolutely.

"Front 5100 Series height adjustable front shocks provide 0.87, 1.57 or 2.28 inches of lift." Just based on Bilstein's spec you wouldn't pick the top unless you wanted to risk being nose high. 2.28" is at the extreme high end of normal rake for a stock truck. I think ~2.1" is typical.

OP, if you haven't yet, park on some good level pavement and measure all of them, and see what you get.

 

I bought BDS 1” shackles. Nobody had the toytec shackles it seems and coach builder seemed expensive. I would not purchase the 1.5” - too tall - especially if you are wanting it to sit more level at the mid setting for the front.

 

"You will be chasing all sorts of magic dragons now with adding to the rear to correct and/or fix the look you are looking for"

Very well stated and precisely why I'm reluctant to block or otherwise raise the rear to chase the front end.

THANK YOU ALL for the GREAT feedback... huge help to me!

 

I'm going to get precise measurements tomorrow. I'll keep you posted. Thank you

 

Another budget friendly shackle that I’ve used is the Maxtrac 1” lift shackle. https://maxtracstore.com/2007-2021-toyota-tundra-2wd-4wd-1-rear-lift-shackle-maxtrac-716710/

I’ve got a set I just pulled off my truck and put the OE back on, as it was a bit too much for me in combination with the Icon expansion pack. If you end up considering shackles, shoot me a PM.

 

Thanks! I will absolutely do that. I'm getting measurements tomorrow. At most I'm thinking it's 0.50 higher than rear, and maybe even less. It's funny sometimes I think it's nose high, then other times it looks about dead level.

If I go the shackle route, I'll definitely take em of your hands.

 

Take it back, get it to the middle. Truly

Don't go shackles unless you want the softer ride, and even then, it's a different discussion, as poly bushings with factory shackles addresses this.

The roof line on this truck doesn't help matters. 100% level will leave it looking nose high. Measure, and subtract 1/2 for front setting if you want it to "look" right. Otherwise, I bet they are within 1/4", which is nothing over 19'

 

I agree, take it back. You told the shop you wanted middle setting, they swayed you to go top setting.
Not sure about cost, but I’d be surprised if they do it all over again for free. Maybe negotiate for half of the cost, since it’s not what you asked for originally.
Good luck.

 

I’d push pretty hard for a free redo.
Yes, you agreed to their recommendation, but they are a very reputable shop and their expertise led you to believe that they knew their business.

Honest mistake on their end, and a good shop would see it as just that. They told you it would be level, and it apparently is not. Give them the opportunity to correct it and make you a customer again when you need more stuff. A couple hours of labor to correct this will not sink them!