1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I need to get the hell off market place before I find another project... already looking like a car lot, and more than enough work to go round.

 

https://youtu.be/zk6rSPnLOLE

 

This is one of those vehicles you see on somebody’s property for sale and it sits there for several years because the owner won’t compromise on price.

 

Just put some 33's on your Subaru @Tundra2

 

NAPA tool did the trick. Shat my pants when it finally popped free.

 

IDK, I never remove my LBJ when changing out the LCAs but I do borrow the pitman arm pullers for the tie rods and LBJ from Autozone. Kit #10 I believe.

I hope you you have the right tool to get the top nut out of the steering rack so you can pull it back and get the CAM bolts out on the rear of the LCAs and to put them back after the new LCAs are installed.

 

LBJ's gotta come off the old LCA if he's re-using the LBJ though. I borrowed the NAPA tool from my buddy who manages the local one and ended up just buying my own.

 

That's exactly what I came to ask next. I can't fit a socket between the inner tie rod boot and the cam bolt. I absolutely have to move the steering rack?

I can't loosen from the other side right?

 

The one on the driver’s side is worse than the passenger side but yeah you have to pull the rack back to get them out.

I use a long flex head ratchet wrench to get the top nut off the rack. I don’t know what others use.

 

Yeah, loosen the steering rack and pull it back about two inches. You'll have to do that to fish the bolt out. There's some brackets for the power steering lines near the passenger side frame, I'd remove those too so you don't fuck up the power steering lines.

 

So it for sure is the top nut you can't see? I know one is welded. We removed all the other steering rack nuts and bolts

 

Bolt head is on top and you loosen there. I think I used a flex head ratchet like Bill and maybe a small extension.

I remember it was really a pain the first time I removed that bolt to do the bushing. The second time I did it when replacing the LCAs wasn't as bad.

 

I got it. Harbor Freight cheater bar for the win.

 

Yep. What @des2mtn says. Mine was a 1/2” drive 18” long flex head ratchet. I first bought it to get my front O2 sensors out.

 

I think harbor freight should make a hammer in the shape of a purse

 

We still can't get enough clearance for the cam bolts. Did anyone have to move the sway bar out of the way?

 

I had my suspension links removed so that wasn’t an issue. They have to be removed since you’re putting in new arms.

I also removed one end of the dust boots on the rack so it wouldn’t be in the way. Secured them back with zip ties since I didn’t want to buy the special tool for retightening new metal bands.

 

We had to completely remove the sway bar.

 

Oh man. I wonder how many pages behind I am over here?

EDIT: 10. The correct answer is I'm 10 pages behind. See you in 45 minutes!

 

Anyone remember the torque for the castle nut on the lower ball joints? It's 117 for John's Double Cab. I know his ball joints are different. I believe the 4 bolts Are 59'lbs but unsure about the castle nut.

 

Hamlet. Duh.

For steering wheel controls, you'd need to upgrade your airbag anyway because the cover plate is different. Just find a later-model moon mist with steering controls like @empty_lord has and move on. And get the clock spring.

I'm glad you posted this. I saw it on the plane home and thought the same.

Did you see the r/rolledintotheshop post a few months back where they showed having to replace it? IIRC, you have to separate the drivetrain from the chassis by dropping it, then separate the engine from the trans to swap out the starter, then reassemble and bolt it back up. 4-6 hours work if you know what you're doing and have a lift, just for a starter. Madness! Leave it to the Germans to build job security into their vehicles...


EDIT: Damn! Took me an hour.

 

The castle nut should be in the range of 100-120ft-lbs. I’m not in from to my computer, so I couldn’t say exactly.

 

yup, around 3 ugga duggas

 

I don’t think it’s all that easy. Black is one option but I’ll have to swap charge as no black single stage. Moon mist wheels are nearly impossible to find. I have a grey wheel which matches my seats but not the blue color, those grey ones can be had in single stage whereas black is only dual stage. But yeah, can just connect one stage.

I do want to take apart the dash and see if maybe the passenger bag uses the same charge and maybe I can swap charges to solve my problem.

Moon mist with audio controls, does it exist? If so, not represented on eBay.

 

Hey y'all. Say a guy was looking to get a complete wheel/tire package tossed together... Bolt-on ready, or at least most of the way there...

Like maybe some MR315s in gold, or MR305s in bronze...

With tires, installed and balanced, maybe some new OEM TPM sensors installed...

Is there any reasonable vendor, either online or brick-and-mortar, you'd recommend?

 

I dunno, what'd Dan install? I thought he was moving to a full moon mist interior and has steering controls? I can't recall, TBH.

 

Dan is going full black. He started tan. He did some painting. Don’t think he ever went moon mist.

he is also ‘05 and has dual stage.

And just to be clear, sequoia grey and late model tundra grey is real grey while moon mist is blue grey. Photo:

 

I like the real grey. It’s nice. I like matchy matchy a lot too.

 

You say matchy matchy yet your dash and gauge cluster are basically black. Going charcoal/dark grey may be the answer here...

Moon Mist was used in the T4R and Tacoma (at least up until the turn of the 2000s, '99-'01), and was also used in Tacomas (proof, a console lid in MM). I found the same for 2000-2001 Camry (proof)

But I don't know when steering controls started, if the 3G T4R had them as an option, for example.

Moon Mist had multiple codes. At least FB16 and FB17 for T4R. But it really looks like Toyota killed Moon Mist in favor of Charcoal around 2002. Maybe I'm wrong...