Best Gen-ECGS bushing tool

I figured I owed you interest too. I forgot to put a note with it. Enjoy that with your favorite sweet tea or regular tea. Just be careful; it'll sneak up on you!

 

I had some last night with some fruit punch, it was really good! I’ll have to try it with tea!
Also…………. My kids laid all that bubble wrap down the entire hallway and are running back and forth, thanks!

 

I still have half a roll of it. I wanted to make sure it didn't break!

 

My littlest was impressed with the length of the bubble wrap, then after they were done the oldest made webs everywhere he could with it; thru cabinet handles, between chairs, the dogs metal crate and so on

 

Cheers, and thanks for the beers!

 

I need to do both LCAs, Steering Rack, and warranty replace the driver's CV shaft so....is the tool up for beer rental!? Figured I might as well do all this at the same time and remembered this thread!

 

It’s awaiting the next trip across the country……. Or I guess across the city hahah, pm me and we can meet up

 

Needless to say...I'm a bit confused on mine. No needle bearing but also not the ECGS bearing. Am I missing something? Almost looks machined into the housing itself?

06 AC SR5

 

Is this the proper side of the truck? Which side is this?

This area does look kinda suspect to me regardless.

 

Yeah that is odd for sure, and it doesn’t look like there is room to get the tool behind it like the regular needle bearing. Remove that oil seal and take a picture to get a better idea

 

This is the driver's side. Definitely not room either. I was going to try before I really noticed it and was like, "hey, something isn't quite right here".

 

@shifty`
What do you think? @empty_lord

 

I dont remember a metal spiral from panhandlemonium.

 

This may be some other brand of bushing replacement, like for a GX front diff or something?

 

That’s kinda what I’m thinking

 

that almost looks like a AWD front diff from a 4runner?

the front diffs used in AWD applications dont have needle bearings

 

I defer to EL on this one. 4WD isn't my bag of snacks.

 

I'll email ECGS and see what they say. At least I don't have a needle bearing! Lol

 

I don't think it helps, but this was mine.

 

Should have taken some pics, as I literally just did this job, but it was a race against time tonight. If only I had a lift...would have taken me 20-30 minutes to finish.

I can't believe how much sturdier the truck feels now. Will need to get more gear oil up in there tomorrow (like a squishy gear oil bag, my pump STB, but I got a decent amount in), but it feels sooo much better.

The bearing itself didn't look terrible, but she was a rattling and the play at the differential housing was a dead give away.

 

Oh, and I bought the tools + seal installer, so there is a backup if/when someone needs it.

 

You're not changing driveline angles enough at 1" to affect geometry in a way that should cause vibrations.
At 2", it's still such a negligible amount, if done properly and not using bullshit cheaper-costing methods, you shouldn't have issues.
We have a ton of members with quality 2.5" - 3.5" of lift up front, properly installed, with no diff spacer, and no vibration complaints.

Granted, all of it can matter on mileage, history, previous maintenance, whether maintenance was done correctly or not, whether that maintenance used authentic OEM parts from a vendor who confirms authenticity of their products (scAmazon, fleaBay, WallyWorld online don't), and probably others.

Is there a reason you're asking?

 

With that said, I would do the ECGS bushing preventively and stop thinking about it, well worth the peace of mind to me.

 

I agree with the gents above. There are more variables than the height of the lift that should be taken into account. Age and environment are going to be the biggest factors.

Do this: Get under the truck, grab the part of the CV that meets the differential housing (driver's side, of course), and see how much play is there. If it feels pretty sloppy, replace the needle bearing with the clamshell bushing.

 

Slop should be defined as up and down slop, not in and out slop. The CV joint is able to “stretch” and be longer or shorter, so you can feel some back and forth or in and out slip thats normal. If you’re able to move the inner axle shaft that meets the diff up and down in the housing, there’s a problem. But the needle bearing can be bad without a lot of slop. The needles corrode and start breaking and get ground up in the space between the bearing race and the axle shaft. It’s only when they turn to powder or the broken needles start to add up do you get slop.

 

Absolutely correct, @KNABORES, I should have specified direction.

My needles were intact and there was plenty of slop, so it's really like @daveeasa said...just do it as preventative maintenance.

 

So after some digging I can confirm that the front diff CASE is from and AWD. Apparently when my front diff had a ring and pinion gear crunch party, it did some pretty good damage to my original housing. The shop that put in my Eaton E-locker had an AWD case and did a full rebuild. In the words of Ace Ventura..."Thanks for the free parking!"

So, I know have an ECGS bearing and new seal if anyone is looking to buy one! Rather save someone shipping cost and like $10 than pay restocking fees. @FrenchToasty I'll get you your tool back! I'll send a PM.

 

Good to know the AWD case will fit. So is it just 2 regular bushings?

 

Hey wait ... so now you can roll around in 4WD all the time, even on dry concrete? Or are the internals still original equipment and just the case and bearings AWD?

 

I think the magic is in the T-case, not the front diff. It is interesting that the bearing set was built waaaay different for the increased use of AWD. Speaks to the feels on the part time needle bearing design.