Is this worth it?? Found a gem!

Or just get close to his family members. Then when he croaks in a couple years, they’ll basically give it to you because it’s ‘so old’, and you’re a ‘friend of the family’.

 

I’d like to see a quote from any mechanic for a TB/WP replacement on a 1st gen tundra for $750. Lowest I think I’ve heard of was like $1,200

 

My tb labor was $880. I bought all the parts. Tb, wp, stat, upper and lower hoses, radiator and serp belt. They supplied the coolant and recharged the ac.

 

@Nick244 I'd buy it. I paid 15k plus taxes and fees for mine last year. Also knowing I would have the tb service done immediately.

 

Just had TB Service done on my '02 Access Cab down here in Southeast Georgia by the local Toyota Dealership. Labor was $735, Parts were $594. She's coming up on 270K Miles.



About four years ago, I had an opportunity get an another '02 Access Cab with 15,000 miles for $15K. I should have bought it...

 

$16k plus ~$4k all in (taxes, tires TB, etc.) sounds outrageous but when compared to other full size trucks (and assuming the truck shows as a low mileage truck) I think it would be hard to pass up. I know prices have dropped recently on used vehicles but once you get this where it needs to be from sitting you'll have a car that'll last for a long time; a lot of worry-free miles.

Passing on this Toyota for a couple grand would have me wishing I'd pulled the trigger when my $14k truck with 150k miles was sitting in the shop.

But that's just me, good luck on your decision.

 

Interesting note by @abcinv above, I wrote the below yesterday:

It’s a $20k truck once you do all the maint this guy didn’t do over the past two decades. If you don’t have time or tools or space, you better have money.

I don’t have a single concern about the value here, my concerns are:

• OP sounds like he is fixated on low mileage for value and that’s simply not the best way get a quality truck without overspending. Low mileage / barn finds can be restored to near new condition but they take time and money to get there. Least trouble and least miles don’t march in step together.
  
• Say OP had 20k and does this purchase up right rather than skimping on maint that the PO already skimped on. Now what? Drive the trophy truck on weekends to the car wash? Ok, cool, but that’s collecting not actually using. If you want a truck to use like a truck, you’ll erode some of the perceived value of a low mileage one. So, you pay more up front, deal with more problems from lack of use and deferred maint, and end up with a normal mileage truck worth a normal price later on.

For my stage of life (relatively financially stable, unable to do anything fun because of family) it still would stress me out. I’d want it in the garage and I’d only drive it to show, not to tow or haul or take trash to the dump.

Doesn’t check my boxes really. That’s one reason I kind of like my scratched up paint and mildly dented bed. I toss trash in my truck and take it to the transfer station, it’s a mobile dumpster right now.

I fully understand the difficulty with CA but I’d personally put more effort into finding a lower priced and higher mileage truck outside of CA. For a minor amount of headache to get it weighed and vin verified, you can save thousands. Arizona would be the prime spot to cherry pick from. I bought my ‘05 Tacoma by flying to Phoenix, Uber to the guy’s house, he took me to his bank, then I drove home to San Diego. One day spent, got a pristine truck with no rust and 127k miles, just right for me. Still sad when I put some scratches in it.

There are lots of older dudes who care about their stuff to maintain it. That’s the red flag here. For a not-low price tag I'd expect a higher level of proper maintenance.

 

I'd consider a 1GT a fairly decent truck to learn to work on. Troubleshooting isnt as easy as carbureted stuff, but theres a great community of helpful folks here who can sometimes point you directly to the problem. Helps to have another means of transportation until the truck is sorted, some parts are getting tricky to find, and at this age, not only are you fixing the problem, but also usually replacing seals or gaskets. If you dont expect to run 37's or 500hp, its about as perfect of a truck as you can get.

 

Lot of IF’s for me personally but IF that was in my area, IF a walk around revealed good frame/body and IF that 90 yr old was the only owner, I’d consider in a New York minute. Slight haggling would have to happen between 2 old farts !

I like to picture something like the below where Gramps left it to the family and hardly ever used.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/two-tone-pics.51186/page-2#post-2470097

 

For sure...to be clear, that is the time set by Toyota and only covers the labor component, not parts. I'm sure if their techs go over that they just find something else in there that "really needed to be done" to make up the time and justify the 9- or 10-hour job. : )

 

I’ll show you my quote after I tackle it soon!

 

If that's the model you want and it checks off all the right boxes for you, just go buy it and move forward.
Unless there is something glaringly wrong, or seems 'off', go snag it and do the most important maintenance items 1st.
Then make a list of the lesser important things and chip away at them 1 at a time, and enjoy the truck.
I too am in CA, and while clean 1st gens are not impossible to find, they are becoming less and less common.
I look at the price of new /newer trucks and shake my head . . . totally ridiculous for a 'truck'.
Even if you gotta dump a little more $ in it than you anticipated, you'll still be waaaaay ahead.
Not to mention how much less your annual CA registration will be.
Also, keep in mind that many of us on here are 'Tundra Dorks', plenty of good advice and knowledge is shared here . . . but at the end of the day it's your call.
Anyone can find a reason why 'You' shouldn't buy a particular truck, and no matter the brand, year, or model, there is always going to be some level of risk no matter what.

 

Work performed on 01/19/2023:

 

What the fuck is that thing in the back ground?

You fucks are lucky I lost all my memes when my old phone took a shit. I curated those memes for years.

 

I-95 Toyota Dealership Logo...

 

I like my trucks like i like my women. 20 years old with alot of problems.

 

I can try to find my first one from the dealer for only $600-$700 which got reduced to $200 after the extended warranty covered the water pump which was mysteriously leaking when "Frank Rizzo" the tech stated it was (with a little service manager coaxing )

That was back in 2008 though.

 

Doesn't look like they replaced your timing belt tensioner.

 

Looks like he didn’t buy the kit.

 

Probably the Mucinex man's fault

 

Hmph, apparently someone didn´t watch Shrek VII, where one of Shrek's kids opens a Toyota dealership

 

Good perspective and you add a lot of good points.

With the price of trucks anything decent will cost more than it should so there's really no wrong answer here. All about what the OP wants...

 

Maybe I missed it but where does it say that the original owner didn't do required maintenance? If he did, then maybe $16K is reasonable if it only needs tires.

But if maintenance was skipped, you will know better after your pre-purchase inspection by the mechanic who should be able to identify what maintenance has NOT been performed.

If you still want the truck after inspection, I'd suggest this negotiating strategy: Agree with the seller that the truck is worth $16k but only after the required maintenance has been performed. Deduct from his asking price the maintenance items not done -- timing belt, water pump, tires, brake flush, change all lubricants -- whatever is needed.

Those items will cost $xx.xx which you can argue should be reduced from the asking price because he failed to do the required maintenance while he owned the truck. If that amount is too much of a discount for the seller, you could tell him it is only fair that at the very least you and the seller should agree to share the cost of maintenance the seller failed to do all those years owning the truck. Bring cash to motivate the seller to agree to your offer.

 

I said $16K, you deaf or something kid, now get off my lawn....

 

I inferred it from original tires (safety hazard) and not doing timing chain (big risk to an increasingly valuable vehicle) as well as personal experience with my own truck which spent 10 years with my friend who only did oil changes. When I first brought it in to the dealer for a multipoint inspection they said "well this isn't the absolute worst one we've ever seen" to start me off. Those valve cover gaskets seem for sure like something that'll be needed, and the radiator could well be crusty too, belts might be in bad shape if it was baking in the sun at all.

All guesswork by me I suppose but I assume any crusty old guy wanting 16k would have paperwork ready to show off or at least be singing about how well he takes care of things and not "dem tires R fine punk" sorta stuff.

 

Trying to find a bank that will write a note on a 20 year old pickup for that $$$….
I’d pass, the little old church lady vehicles tend to be more of a headache in the long run. And with the internet being the tool it can be, low mileage reasonably priced 1st gens can be found, just need patience.

 

It may not have been confirmed, but he didn't. Oli changes and the such, that's about it. Basically two old guys who wanted a fishing truck have owned it in the last decades of their lives, but neither went fishing. Without going into the obvious, one quote from the seller will make it clear how much has been done with the truck.

"It still has the same tires it came off the lot with!"

 

Hahahaha this quite literally how I felt negotiating the price. It appears his daughter in law listed the price of a DCLB Limited V8 4x4, so the extreme price now has an explanation. I'm working on speaking to his family about the realistic price, which is 8.5-11.5k per KBB. I'm feeling much less inclined for the asking price, but we will see what the mechanic says tomorrow morning.

Thanks guys

 

What do you perceive as the reality of getting this thing in shape? It hasn't been 'well maintained' but rather 'barely used'. I know the tires need to get replaced before I even drive home, but can I even try it with everything else in mind? I have a 200 mile tow I can use from AAA to get it home to my mechanic.

I'm assuming timing belt, any other plastic belts, possibly a majority of hoses, gaskets, and seals will be worn/blown. Radiator probably has build up. Oil HOPEFULLY is fine, but the transmission and differential fluids? The last thing I'd want is to blow something up on the way home, it's alright if it's just a matter of fixing it beforehand.