New Travel Trailer question

So this is the layout im looking at. The bunkhouse has a slide and the living room has one.

 

That's a great layout, no doubt, but I would only feel comfortable pulling that with a 3/4 or 1 ton truck.

 

What JDR said.

 

Was the build of this sub par? Any other major problems like slide issue or leaking pipes? I know every camper and manufacturer has its own problems. Just not looking at buying someone else’s problem either

 

If I remember correctly, you have a Freedom Express? Maybe a 257BHS? How do you like it?

 

Once you put 700 lbs on the bumper you will have very little payload capacity for people and gear

 

I definitely realize that it will be cutting it close. I can also move the battery and propane tanks to the back as well if I really had too.

 

i know you want to make this work but be careful shifting weight from the front. Too light up front will cause the trailer to fishtail.

 

Yep, you remember right. Ours is a 2018 25SE. Only had it out one summer but we love it so far. I was just looking and it looks like they changed the layouts on the new ones a bit so you either lose some storage or the dry weight is like 500 lbs heavier than ours.

 

I mean 2 propane tanks and a battery doesn’t add much weight. Maybe 100lbs if that. With the wife and kids ill be pretty close to payload.

Guess its time to “upgrade” the truck

 

I looked at the weights of this trailer. It is cutting it VERY close, but my main concern would be the total length of the trailer. The total length is 35', which is very long for a lightweight 1/2-ton truck. IF you do go with a trailer of this length, at least use a ProPride or Hensley weight distribution hitch with built-in 100% sway elimination. Please be safe and think of you and your family traveling with this in tow. Happy Camping

 

I am pulling a 32' with slide outs on both sides with current weight of 7800 lbs. Tows very well, have gone cross-country with it but I think I am close to the max Your proposed camper is 4' longer and about the same weight - I would be concerned that the extra sidewall area (12%+) might push you over the edge in cross-wind and truck-suck situations. I am running RAS which helps with leveling and porposing. You might want to inquire on a Mallard/Heartland forum to get some real world Tundra towing experience with that trailer. This forum is likely not the best place to ask that question.

 

@atrinh15 I tow a TT similar to what you are looking for. It's a 2021 Prime Time (By Forest River) Tracer 31BDH. It has the large slide in living area and separate bunkhouse with its own slide. The overall length is 34.5ft and weight on yellow sticker (actual weight) is 6890lbs. I had a second AC unit installed in the bunkhouse and a few other add-ons, so I'm really close to 7K lbs empty. The manufacturer list the hitch weight at only 630lbs, which is right at 10% of the weight they list on their website. That weight (6300lbs) is most likely without any propane, battery, AC, etc. I towed this trailer for 1 summer with only sumo springs and Equal-i-zer hitch and stock brakes/suspension. It was not an easy or enjoyable tow. Before the next camping season (summer 2022) I added RAS HD, Eibach Pro Truck Shocks all around (set at 1.25in in front), and HAWK Talon Drilled/Slotted rotors with HAWK LTS brake pads. The towing experience is much better with these upgrades. This is A LOT of trailer for our trucks, but IN MY OPINION, doable if you're not going too far or overloading your truck/bed. And it depends on the terrain your towing in. We live in Central Texas (really flat) and drive down to the Gulf Coast a few times a year and the Texas Hill country as well. We're definitely going slow up those hills (50mph or so) and the wind off the gulf coast is no joke either, but we take our time getting to our destination. I also have TPM sensors and Observation camera on TT, and OEM Tow mirrors on truck. As for the overall quality of this trailer...it could be much better. But I'm quite handy and good with preventative maintenance, so nothing I haven't been able to handle (except for main AC going out last summer). I keep trailer under waterproof cover around 6 months/year. This has helped keep it overall great condition.

 

Thats a really nice layout and your right similar to what im looking at. I do have some upgrades to my truck already. I do plan on adding air bags. I realize a 3/4 or 1 ton would give more room to tow. But hearing from people who have a similar setup is great feedback before committing to a big purchase.

 

You have a very nice looking rig. I agree that inside storage and having the ability to do the preventative maintenance and tackle the numerous fix-it opportunities yourself helps a lot. I have made very similar improvements to the Tundra with good success. Like you, I have installed RAS and upgraded the pad & rotors, front & back (Powerstop Z36) although I had no issues with the original OEM brakes. I also put on Loaded Rated E tires (Michelin Defenders) when time came and they further helped reduce sway. Installed Goodyear Endurance on the TT also when time came - they are load rated E like the original tires but have a higher speed rating and are, I think, somewhat stiffer which also helped. At 68,500 miles on the Tundra, I have not made any changes to the shocks - still running the OEM Bilsteins that came with the TRD package. I also run an Equalizer 4 point WDH, have the i10 Tireminder TPM system on the TT tires and keep a close eye on the TT wheel bearings & brakes

 

Sometimes these towing threads give me the willies

 

I understand. As I said earlier, this is really not a good forum for these kinds of questions. There are many TT forums that discuss these issues specifically associated with Tundra's. One that I frequent is called "Tundra Grand Design Haulers". Some of the folks on there have long-term, real world experience and can provide thoughtful input.

 

Maybe. Maybe not. I was on a travel trailer forum and a guy asked for advice on which used halfton to get for towing. His only requirement was that it be very reliable so naturally I recommended a second gen Tundra. I got shit on by everyone else so much because "fuel economy is too bad", "interior is not comfortable enough", etc.

 

I know. I see that on general TT sites where folks that have never owned a Tundra don't understand how reliable (and capable) they are. I direct them to the specific Tundra site I mentioned and when people show up there, they are happy to be able to get meaningful input.

 

So you're telling OP to go to a trailer forum to get advice on towing with a Tundra but you're telling me no one on the trailer forums knows anything about Tundras so you tell them to come here to get advice on towing with a Tundra?

 

This is probably beating a dead horse but there isn’t a chance I would tow that trailer with a tundra…..for a ton of reasons. People can give you all kinds of advice in relation to whether or not the tundra is capable of towing a trailer that size (it probably is). BUT, if something were to happen and you get in an accident with that, a lawyer will have a field day with the case. There are many who have and will discount that scenario. The simple fact is that trucks have payloads and specifications for a reason - and it isn’t about IF the truck can do it.

 

Sure, it can pull it.. but the white knuckle part would ruin any enjoyment out of the trip for me. 29', 5900lb dry here.. and it feels solid with a wdh and rear sway bar.

 

No, I am suggesting that in addition to this site, they go to a specific forum that addresses towing their trailer (or a similar one) with a Tundra. The site I mentioned, "Tundra Grand Design Haulers" is specifically for folks towing Grand Design TT's with Tundra's. This is a link for that group ..... . I would think there would be similar groups for other brands of TT's. Always good to get more info.

 

A 34' bumper pull doesn't belong on behind a half ton truck. Loaded up, you're probably looking at double the hitch weight if not more. The Tundra is a heavy and capable truck that can carry 8150 lb (if perfectly distributed) before overloading either axle, but that long of a trailer sounds like a giant pain in the ass. High winds? No thanks.

If you want to pull something bigger than many downtown condos, I think it should be a 5th wheel with an HD truck. Just my opinion.

 

If you get into an accident while overloaded, it will be treated the exact same as when you get into an accident while speeding, while on your phone, while not paying attention, or while falling asleep. Insurance will cover you up to the coverage amounts that you paid for. They might drop you afterward or increase your policy premiums, but they can't deny your claim because you were overloaded. Insurance has to pay for your negligent and illegal acts. The only thing they DON'T have to pay for is insurance fraud. Being overweight is not fraud.

 

I won’t argue - you are correct. BUT if the other driver / passenger is injured or decides to sue in excess of simply damage to vehicle, a lawyer can and will go after the operator for negligence of operation. Insurance will cover it but the other party can get a lot more than simply damages to vehicle in the case that the vehicle is being operated over specifications.

 

Yes, anyone can sue anyone for anything. I always ask someone to provide just one case of a wrecked, private, half-ton truck being taken to the CAT scales, determined to be overweight, and that driver being penalized for it in any way.

One example I was given as a supposed smoking gun was the case of the guy pulling a 19-ton yacht with a Superduty without hooking up trailer brakes coming down the mountain from Tahoe. He melted his truck's brakes and killed people flying through an intersection at the bottom of the descent. Terrible situation. Far cry from a guy in a Tundra towing a camper that is under his max tow rating but puts his truck over payload. He is being charged with towing a commercial load without a commercial license (26k GCWR that requires a Class A license to operate). He also didn't hook up his trailer's brakes. <insert mind blown emoji here>

Another example people point to is the Ram 3500 that recently cracked in half because it was grossly overloaded with much of the weight hanging behind the rear bumper. Guess who is paying to repair the truck? His insurance policy.

 

I guess the whole point is there is a vast difference between what a truck CAN tow vs what it SHOULD tow. Specs aside (because everyone will argue that they’re underestimated), there is something to be said for responsible ownership and operation. I would prefer not to take the chance and upgrade to a heavier duty tow vehicle if there is any question. Better to have too much truck than too little in my opinion

 

Mostly agreed. My thoughts on how much a truck can handle are similar to Andy's, which I have quoted below. TL;DR: my rule of thumb is to stay under axle ratings.

 

I also agree with Andy....a thoughtful approach. I do CAT scale measurements and try hard to stay under GVWR but definitely do not exceed axle ratings. I do think about sprung weight vs unsprung weight - I put heavier LRE tires on which do not add to sprung weight. Not sure this incremental weight should count against the axle rating, however, do need to worry about stopping and monitor both TV and TT brake condition carefully. Would never exceed GCWR.