Raise seat height THIS way?

Has anyone tried raising the seat height by putting in spacers to the four bolts on the underside of the seat? Likely need longer bolts too,

 

https://desertdoesit.com/products/tundra-front-seat-jackers

 

I know about the seat jacker$$ and the unsafe diy options. This looks like a cheap easy way to get at least 1.5 inches. I played around with the seat a bit with the bolts out and there is room to do this.

these 4 bolts are all basically vertical and hence it should be safe as long as they are replaced with like grade or better.

 

Search this site...there are threads about this already. DIY is fraught with peril. You'd be better of sitting on a phone book (Oh hell, there's one more "no longer available" item!)

 

My purpose is to get more height under the seat to fit an amp. I haven't read about this particular option, just the do it yourself version of the seat jackers.

 

Do you have dual buckets up front? I’ve got plenty of space for my alpine amp under the passenger bench seat.

 

I imagine he wants to crank it to 11, so it might be a bigger amp than your alpine

 

Yup. I have a kenwood 5 channel under there already and am going to stuff an Arc Audio 400.4 (bridged) class AB to power my mids. I already checked that i need a wee bit more room under there.

 

12

 

For educational purposes:

• You went under passenger non-power captains chair?
• How'd you mount to the floor (no judgment from me)?
• Can you measure or give the model# of your Kenwood so I can look up measurements?
• What are the measurements or model number of the new AA amp?

Just curious. Some day I'll get off my ass and install my JL HD900/5 in. I'm way overdue. I haven't checked yet for clearance with the seat slid all the way fwd/back.

​

 

It’s Legit

 

That amp in your diagram will fit no problem.
Here is what I will stuff under the passenger seat:

The Kenwood x802-5 (dimensions: 9-13/16"W x 2-1/8"H x 6-3/4"D)
fits with plenty of lateral and vertical space under non powered passenger seat. The arc audio 400.4 (Dimensions: 13 inches x 8.5 inches x 2.5 inches ) needs more vertical room. I will need to reposition the kenwood as well. It hasnt been velcro’d nor fixed to the floor. The tension in the wiring/ plus the fact that it is so light had me leave it at that. Ill need to strap down that class ab monster though.
I have my dsp under the driver seat and there is less room there anyhow.

 

I purchased these, Love them.

 

Part of my question is: does anyone see a safety issue with what I am contemplating?

 

Any time you increase the length of your fastener on something with potential for horizonal forces, you introduce extra risk of shear.

For normal use, if you use something with heft to it (thick walls, like a drilled block) it should "theoretically" be fine. However, in the event of a collision, where horizontal forces will act, chances are the OEM bolt, regardless whether you use grade 8 hardware or not, is going to become the weak point of the equation and snap.

Part of what makes seats safe is their low stance, they're secured directly to a cage with weight distributed, out of thinner, softer metal which does a great job of distributing stress and load, and the metal they bolt into is typically stamped, so less (or no) seams to shear.

Shearing/snapping is what you need to watch out for. Anything you can do to reduce the possibility of shear is bonus. I won't even use $eatJacker$ in my truck, although I know they'd make it more comfortable, because I've been in and seen enough friends in car accidents in my lifetime, even OEM can fail.

But, honestly, unsecured amps under seats are ankle-breaking projectiles during collisions also. Velcro isn't sufficient, and the last sentence of my last paragraph ties back to that knowledge. But I promised no judgment, so I'm just gonna say it and move on.

(I will say though, if you're gonna do it, where you're talking about doing it is the safest possible place I can think of)

 

If you can run your cables right you could consider putting the amp or another component of the system in the rear under seat storage. That's where mine is. It's pretty decent size. Unless your amp gets stupid hot.

 

I've also seen people put them under the center console. Maybe the AA amp could go under the seat, and the Kenwood under the center console? I wouldn't want to put the DSP under the center console, I'm assuming it gets tweaked on a lot. Not that amps aren't the same way, I dunno if the Kenwood has a remote adjustment port or anything, or if it's simple, like just a single gain knob or something.

 

Two 8 inch subs are there.

Hmm that has me thinking. The dsp gets tweaked a lot but via a usb cable that plugs into my laptop. It might be possible to put the kenwood under the drivers side, the arc under the passenger and once it clears the rear lower lip of that seat it might fit. Then the dsp , which is smaller might fit in the console.
Thanks for the head check on this.

 

@shifty`
If I was to put in longer bolts, what grade is stock/what is widely available that would be stronger? (is stock 8.8 grade?)

I have been messing around with the audio so much lately that I likely will make future changes and don't want to make a big rearrangement of everything until I settle on setup.

 

Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure grade 5 is used for seats, and grade 8 for seat belts. It looks like grade 8 is good for around 18,000lb share force, grade 5 is around 15k lb.

 

Thanks

 

Metric ratings and standard bolt ratings are different. Metric bolt grade 8.8 is not the same as grade 8 standard. Goes 8.8 to 10.9 to 12.9. Not sure of the lower than 8.8 standards but I'd say to stay away from those.
LINK

 

Thank you.

 

I installed the higher 10.9 bolts today. Nicely raised the seat but the metal tabs that the bolts slot through still block my larger amp.
Back to the drawing board.

 

Sorry bro.

Did you look at the possibility of dropping the DSP under the center console?

 

I am not sure what you mean exactly here. Literally under the console or in the console?

Eyeballing everything, it looks like I could put the kenwood under the drivers seat, the arc under the passengers seat and the dsp in (or your idea under?) the console. It just means that I will need to pull the entire interior (again) to rewire everything. I need to look at total amps too to see if I need to reup the power wire. Still waiting on a distribution block for the power and ground near the amps.
Oh, and I got sucked into trying to bypass the HU for better SQ, meaning iphone directly to dsp via [usb->digital coax conversion]. Some people swear that eliminating two DA conversion in the HU improves SQ, others say not so much. So I am trying it for myself in a few days. This is minutia at this point...

 

Seatjackers! Lift the whole seat - no more dangerous that what you've done