What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

So no holes in the fenders after removal? I thought they all had them?

 

Yes, but the holes are in the underside of the "lip" if I read that correctly in the FSM, so not visible laterally from the outside of the vehicle unless you were to squat down to wheel level.

 

I was gonna say, that looks like a Bel Air camper shell. I bought one new for my last truck, a tacoma years ago. Unfortunately it didnt fit on the Tundra or else i wouldve kept it. Great camper shells and you can customize them many different ways to your liking. Nice score man!

 

I was pleasantly surprised to find that there werent any holes in the visible part of the fender! @JasonC. is correct, on mine all the holes were on the underside inside the wheel well, so looks clean after removal!

 

I snagged some 208-bs open box from 1uztech a few months ago, I'm gonna try to retain vvti with the bigger cams if possible. I'm not sure if the tuning solution I'm using will let me control the vvt, but if it does I'm gonna use it to make more power.

 

No idea what any of this means, but sounds like you know your stuff! Definitely gonna have fun "tuning" in to the process of this new build! Cheers brother

 

Solenoid mount is 90% besides paint, I think I will mount a breaker on the open spot of the plate steel, since I’m running out of room for activities!
Next up will be running/mocking wire lengths and get eyes crimped on the ends, then cable management down to the winch motor.
Then I need to work on the final design and spacing for my front skid plate. Hopefully I don’t need to take out a loan for 1/4” aluminum plate

 

Anyone have a 2.5 Gen as well? Found some stuff in the basement today, that could use a new home. We got rid of our 15 SR5 and 16 Limited, these never got used. Some black vent rings, and a tag light disable in reverse harness I got a couple of years ago from @daveeasa .

Cover shipping and I’ll send em your way. If no takers, I’ll post em in the 2.5 gen side BST

 

You ever get it installed?

That one is 2.5 Gen specific so you are best posting in that forum.
If it’s unused I can buy it back.

 

Haha, same. Meanwhile I'm like "yeah, I'm pretty into cars and pretty mechanical, currently restoring an old truck" while really I am just deciding whether to use Griot's or Cerakote on my faded trim.

 

Haha im sure we are both learning more mechanical stuff as we work on these trucks, i know i am. But still no where near the level of some guys in here!

 

Honestly a lot of this stuff is pretty easy with the right documentation. It only took me 2 days to have the whole block torn down to the crank using a haynes repair manual. Tuning isn't that bad until you start trying to mess with things beyond fuel and spark. Honestly I'm still pretty amateur but I am determined to take a hellcat to gapplebees with a 2uz lmao. Shouldn't be that hard, I beat a 6.4 challenger on the old setup so I doubt I'll have an issue once the part with that ford logo goes onto the built motor.

 

We're all waiting to find out what that Ford part is!

 

Never got around to it that winter, kinda got lost in the mix of getting the 100 series and moving into our other home. Figured I’d offer it to this bunch before posting to the 2.5 side of the house. If you’re wanting it, just let me know and I can shoot it out your way.

 

Managed to get drivetrain fluids changed today. Went with Mobil1 LS (75w90/75w140) fluids in rear diff, the tc and front diff.

tc fluid looked beautiful. Not sure either diff had the fluid changed the truck's short-mile life. More glitter than I'd like to see up front in the first half-QT or so to come out, back had some glitter too. Plenty of sludge much better out back.

I'll say this much, spent 15mins in a parking lot stop/go low-speed doing figure-8s to work the new fluid between rear plates. No chatter. Drove around w/4HI engaged for a few miles, then off and back to the lot for ~10min, no chatter. If I hear chatter I'll make some noise here. Seems some thought there's no way I wouldn't chatter.

EDIT: GOT CHATTER. Let it sit overnight, and immediately heard chatter when reversing out with light turn from the garage. It only happens when cold. Bummer.

Rear with back/front lighting, about half-drain

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tc at 1/2 drain

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front diff 1st maybe 1/4 quart of drain, got better about halfway thru, but still not loving this color...

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Might as well share skid marks too (magnet sludge). Rear is 1st, front is 2nd. I like to overshare. Like, a lot.

 

Oh and I think I'm going to proactively swap out the vent out back. When I popped the fill plug out back, TTTTTSSSSSSssssssss. My valve spins and punches in/out fine, but clearly I'm holding pressure back there.

 

I didn't develop chatter until maybe a week or so after I changed the rear (Mobil-1 75w90 LS), long enough afterward that it took me a while to figure out what was actually going on (like...who knew? I run Mobil-1 in the LSD rears on both my 4Runner and Land Cruiser without event). I changed to 75w90 to Lucas (not synthetic) and it continued to chatter for a week or so...and then it went away!

 

Noted. Will definitely be keeping an ear out. (UPDATE: Got chatter. Dammit.)

Your experience w/Mobil1 75w90 LS was a concern. Our rears should be basically the same. And 90 vs.140 on the winter side shouldn't make a big difference, I'm pretty sure it's the additive package that stops chatter moreso than the base fluid itself.

I'd really prefer to stick w/full syn out back, but if I need to drain/fill again, I'll do it and just eat the ~$70 spent on fluid.

If this doesn't work out, I'm contacting Mobil1 to complain. They specifically recommended for mine exactly what you put in yours. They advertise it as 'for all LSD'.

 

Why is that? Just curious.

 

Loaded up for Kentucky

 

This is practically a topic of religion.

My view: Better high temp response. Lower friction. Longevity. I just prefer synthetics overall, regardless the application. And for really stupid, vain reasons like you can get a better color/health read out of them when draining because they don't break down and blacken as fast.

Granted, I don't rebuild gearboxes for a living. I know ECGS (and a couple others) prefer dino oil, but I think they also said it all with this in one of their publications:

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They basically acknowledge: It's opinion. And "for the differentials they've seen". And how much extra heat in the metal or oil? And how much genuine impact would that extra metal heat make?

While they feel dino does better, dino formulas haven't changed much in a century or more, synthetics and additive packages continue to evolve, making it a moving target. Not to mention differences in differentials (that's a tongue twister) may make full syn better in some, worse in others.

I dunno. What's right? Maybe we'll know in 20 years? If I end up needing to replace either gearbox a few years down the road because I used synthetics, so be it. But if I start hearing chatter, I'll probably swap out for Lucas 80w90 or something.

I will say, though. Toyota does make a full synthetic 75w140. They do recommend it for use in rears, specifically. Hell if I can remember which at this point, and that opinion even seems to vary from toyo mech to toyo mech.

 

Oh, and also from ECGS:

 

Definitely feel free to find a home for it however you like. But do know that it’s 2.5 Gen specific and won’t work for first Gen or 2.0 Gen.

 

Trackin’ that, wanted to offer it to anyone in this bunch who may have a 2.5 Gen, prior to posting to the 2.5 Gen side of the house.

 

@KNABORES

 

Just to throw out other variables, they say one keeps metal cooler the other keeps the fluid cooler. Well, how much cooler? If the dino metal is a difference of say 10° cooler, but the synth oil is running at 40° cooler, which is the right choice? Which will shed that heat quicker, as well? Will the synth fluid dissipate quicker and thus be able to cool the hotter metal more efficiently even though it runs a bit warmer?


I have no horse in this race. Just clicked the thumbnail for the thread and my night shift brain started asking questions.

 

Where ya headed?

 

Thanks dude. I've been looking for a used Bel Air or Callen for YEARS. Found this one for a Tundra, immediately bought a Tundra and sold my Tacoma. This shell was my priority. Stoked on it

 

as always

Did you just say you sold your taco and bought a tundra because of the shell you found?..... that's awesome, and a big upgrade. Good for you