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New UCA Needed?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by C4ctus99, Dec 31, 2022.

  1. Jan 23, 2023 at 12:03 PM
    #31
    shifty`

    shifty` Is the Gila Copter a love machine?

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    You could do that. Did you try a joint separator/pickle fork to get the tie rod ends free?
     
    des2mtn likes this.
  2. Jan 23, 2023 at 12:04 PM
    #32
    des2mtn

    des2mtn Third Member

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    Where my wheels stop rolling
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    Tonto cover
    Try a pitman arm puller (if available), or pound on the ear of the LBJ where the tie rod goes through with a BFH if you're re-using the tie rods. Otherwise screw the castle nut back on a few threads and pound on the castle nut with your BFH.

    Tie rods are less of a risk for non-OEM but at this point it wouldn't hurt just to refresh everything.
     
    Casper421 and shifty` like this.
  3. Jan 23, 2023 at 7:07 PM
    #33
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Pickle fork. Cheap and easy as long as you aren't planning to reuse any of the components you separate with it.
     
  4. Jan 26, 2023 at 5:56 PM
    #34
    C4ctus99

    C4ctus99 [OP] New Member

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    I just went ahead and ordered new tie rod ends. Kinda sucks but now it's all OEM again. The frickin shop lost the castle nut on the passenger side stud for the tie rod end and just threw on a nylock nut so replacing that too along with all the pins for the castle nuts while I'm down there.

    My truck has now been on blocks for 2 weeks and last week I noticed some fluid leaking down the CV axle on the passenger side. Any thoughts? just the strain/bad angle of the new suspension and it just hanging down for too long? I'll need to check the fluid in the front diff (or whatever the part is called that the axle connects in) and make certain it's all good.

    Thanks for the help!
     
  5. Jan 26, 2023 at 8:37 PM
    #35
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    I think one of my tie rods is a moog and it has a nylock nut as well.

    Have to figure out if that fluid is from a leaking CV boot or from the differential. If differential you may have a bad passenger side axle seal. That seal isn't too bad to replace it's just getting it in the perfect depth that can be a pain.
     
    evanhmn likes this.
  6. Jan 27, 2023 at 6:40 AM
    #36
    shifty`

    shifty` Is the Gila Copter a love machine?

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    Curious, is the threaded end drilled for cotter insertion? Just curious if OP could even use a cotter, if there's no place to stick a cotter, it kinda suggests it's nylock-only
     
  7. Jan 27, 2023 at 4:04 PM
    #37
    C4ctus99

    C4ctus99 [OP] New Member

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    Yes, it is drilled for a cotter pin. Got the rest of the parts in today, and I am very glad to say that after installation the tires did not fall off! I didn't have a pickle fork to get the ball joints out so I improvised by putting the jack directly under the stud and lifting the entire truck with the stud. Placed stands under the frame just a fraction of an inch off it to catch the truck and then beat the crap out of the balljoints till they popped out. It was a bit of a fight. The engine is currently running with the prestone coolant cleaner and distilled water and I'm about to google how to check and top off the transmission fluid and the front diff fluid. Unless y'all respond back really really quickly on that...

    As to the differential, when the passenger side ball joint gave out a year ago, it pulled the axle out of the diff completely. Fortunately the mechanics were able to just throw it back in there as nothing was damaged. So it could very well be the seal, but I'm hoping it was just the angle of the axle made a small opening for it to leak out. Doesn't seem like it was much fluid but I haven't checked the levels yet
     
  8. Jan 27, 2023 at 8:08 PM
    #38
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Mine is not drilled for a pin. It's also aftermarket though.

    I'm assuming you figured it out by now but trans fluid check is easy on early trucks. Just leave running and pull the dipstick out.

    Front diff fluid check is easy as well as long as the 10mm Allen head screw doesn't strip out.
     
  9. Jan 28, 2023 at 6:51 AM
    #39
    C4ctus99

    C4ctus99 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah, gotta move it off the sloped driveway first for all that. As a sidenote, I drove it to get some dinner last night at the steering was pulling hard to the right. It needs an alignment, but going straight means I have to have the steering wheel like 5 degrees out. Would this be because I put the tie rod ends on wrong/different lengths? So the tie rods are offsetting the rack when the wheel is straight? I left the nuts on where you thread on the tie rod ends so I could put the new ones on to the exact same depth of threads as the ones I took off. If that is the problem, is there a way to adjust it without having to separate the tie rod end from the ball joint cause that will be a pain and may ruin the tie rod end. I'd rather not purchase twice.
     

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